GANT Rediscovered

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When last in New York, I took some time to stroll along Fifth Avenue and wound up stopping at the GANT flagship store. While this may not sound like an overly significant event, for me it was an eye-opening experience. While an unfair characterization, my gut reaction to the GANT brand has long been something to the effect of, “GANT….don’t they make bland weekend wear I usually find on the discount rack?” At some level, I knew this was … [Read more...]

White Nights

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On Saturday night, when I attended the grand reception of a wedding, I realised something I have suspected for quite some time: I prefer white tie to black tie. I cannot help it. As I was comparing the lines of the gentlemen dressed in tails to those dressed in shorter jackets I couldn’t help but feel that the shorter jackets, though many were well cut, were no match for the breathtaking elegance of an evening tailcoat. The ‘tuxedos’ were … [Read more...]

How to Assess the Quality of a Shirt, Part 2

In the previous posting on this topic, I explained that most ways to assess the quality of a dress shirt revolve around working out how many time-consuming details have been included. Each detail adds a few more precious seconds to the manufacturing time; fewer shirts can be made every day, and each therefore costs a little bit more to make. The first to consider was whether the side seam has two lines of stitching or one – one line taking … [Read more...]

How to Assess the Quality of a Shirt

Much is made of assessing the quality of a suit – its fineness of wool, cut and construction. But it is far easier to tell the quality of a shirt, largely because all its stitching and manufacture is open for all to see. You could also argue that, given you can buy a shirt for £4 in Primark, the price differential in shirts is greater than that in suits. After all, some designer shirts cost over £300 – 75-times the Primark option. It is … [Read more...]

Trouser Issues: Cuffs & Rolls

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A reader recently posed the following question to me: I'd like to ask your opinion on something -- do rolled-up/cuffed pants make legs look longer, or shorter? I'm 5' 7" and started rolling up the bottom of my jeans/pants to look like a cuff, but was told it made my legs look shorter. (All the pants are pretty slim cut.) On the other hand, I've heard people say rolling up pants, sometimes even to the point where you can see skin/sock between … [Read more...]