I read a discussion recently between sartorialists on whether a double-breasted suit should have cuffs on the trousers or not. Of course there were some declarations about it being a rule that they should, but as with all rules they are subjective and vary geographically. The important thing is to understand the reason behind the rule. [If you haven’t read them already, you can hear my views on similar rules such as wearing brown in town, … [Read more...]
Shoemakers can do a lot to help you decide which size is right for you. They can feel in which places your foot is hard against the edge. They can judge the clearance at the instep by how far the laces tighten. And they can look for any slippage of your heel. In the case of Lodger, they can even scan your foot to compare the fit with different lasts electronically. But in the end, the true arbiter of fit is you. Only you know where it … [Read more...]
‘If only’ are two of the saddest words in the English language. We are always more indulgently wistful in contemplating opportunities lost than we are in celebrating realised gains. The land-of-might-have-been is one of perfection and happiness in which there is no call for such regretful hand-wringing for, as Novello sang, it is simply “far more mercifully planned than the cruel place we know.” I am not often as sanguine about my own … [Read more...]
Ever wondered why your Dolce & Gabbana jacket fits you so well but the Gucci just isn’t right? Well, it’s Antonio Bracciani’s fault. Bracciani is not a designer, a marketer or a manager. He is a fit model. And most of the clothes in the retail collections of Gucci, Prada, Burberry, Z Zegna and Calvin Klein Collection have been made to fit his body. Not yours, not mine, but his. So if you happen to be 72" tall with a 33" waist, … [Read more...]
Odd jackets might have fallen from favour in recent years, but there have been encouraging signs of their return. Gone are the days of the stroller – odd jackets and trousers are strictly casual nowadays – and close to disappearing are the classic brass buttoned blazers, but thanks to recent trends the concept of wearing a jacket, similar in cut and design to a suit jacket, with an odd pair of trousers is still very much alive. As ghastly and … [Read more...]
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