One of the luxuries of shopping at tailors and other high-end menswear stores is the knowledge of staff. OK so if you’re a real shoe geek you might know more than the sales assistant – few people care what a rand is, even if they love shoes. But that assistant will at least be able to explain the different lasts on offer, give you decent advice about sizing and know the difference between an Oxford and a Derby. In short, they will know their … [Read more...]
A few months ago, I placed a suit order from a reputable online retailer. When the package arrived, imagine my dismay when instead of a suit I ordered, the package contained a midnight blue, solid, two-button suit by a company called Lardini. After a moment of confusion, I called my tailor: “Daryl, I am coming over.” Five minutes later, I was trying on this mystery label. To his and my surprise, the suit fit really well. While half canvassed … [Read more...]
One true hallmark of a bespoke suit is the size of its armholes. Most armholes in ready-to-wear suits (and made-to-measure patterns, to a certain extent) cater for men with larger arms and shoulders, in order to be on the safe side. As with so many other areas of menswear, no one notices when they’re too big, but everyone would notice if they were too small. Smaller armholes are also just harder to make. As bespoke is cut uniquely for you, … [Read more...]
It’s not easy to spot a high-quality tie. Most of the signs that people tell you to look for, such as the loop being sewn in between the folds rather than tacked across, have no real practical benefit. They are just signs that a little more effort has been used (it takes longer, so it’s more expensive to make, so they must have spent money elsewhere). There are some genuine signs. The slip-stitch down the back must be done by hand – but … [Read more...]
I am often asked this question; “What do you wear when you go out?” Why am I asked such a question? Chiefly, because my particular inclinations (bow ties, paisley pocket squares and fuss) do not seem to marry with the idea of what that particular person considers ‘going out’ clothing. ‘Going out’ is unambiguous code for late night bar-hopping, clubbing, guest list queues and almost any activity past 6 in the evening that involves … [Read more...]
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