The Rules And How To Break Them. No.7


Rule 7: Wear a white linen handkerchief with your suit Of all the colours and materials available for a pocket handkerchief, white linen is considered the smartest and most formal. Why? Well it’s a question of two factors – complement and contrast. A silk tie is definitely smarter than a wool or linen one. The shiny lustre of the silk and the way it contrasts with the rougher texture of the suit creates a pleasing distinction. So why … [Read more...]

My Favourite Things: Materials


I have always been fascinated by material. It has consistently amazed me how many variations of texture, weave and tactility can be conjured from tiny strands of fabric; not only how one weave might be superior to another, or one construction stronger than another but also how those fabrics, like all good things designed for practical purposes, can be so different in effect. I like many fabrics but there are some that I simply adore for their … [Read more...]

Shoe Stereotypes


The Sanders buck shoe The Sanders buck shoe man was quietly insistent that his daughter inform her class that her father was not, as she had previously speculated, a ‘ship builder’ but a ‘yacht designer.’ He flicked open his Macbook Air and explained to her, in an insipidly patronising tone of voice, that ‘daddy doesn’t bang nails; daddy draws aft cabins.’ His daily life is one of constant exposure to the world of the … [Read more...]

Bespoke But Bland


There are things I utterly love about the bespoke clothing ‘experience’ and there are also areas which think leave a lot of room to be desired. A throbbing, temple-grindingly painful example of the latter category is service. The naïve amongst us might imagine that, given the cost involved, the level of service that customers receive from bespoke artisans would be far superior to that proffered by the sartorial sirens in the oh-so chic, … [Read more...]

First Fitting With Toby Luper


Having met Toby Luper of Hemingway Tailors, I was invited recently to try his bespoke service. Toby is rather cynical about the number of fittings Savile Row tailors insist on, and bet me he could get the fit right in one (forward) fitting. As I mentioned in a recent post, I was impressed by the attention to detail Toby showed in analysing my body shape. That impression continued with the fitting this week. The trousers were a good fit … [Read more...]