Summer White-Out


Before departing London for another semester of university back in the States, I had a day or two to do those things I spent all summer saying would get done tomorrow. Pretty close to the top of the list was checking out the Maison Martin Margiela retrospective at Somerset House. Looking at videos of runway shows and agonizing over which hand-constructed conceptual garment is most impressive is taxing work, and a bit of pre-game fuel was … [Read more...]

The ‘Big’ Question


So fashion has relented and will now produce plus-size designs with Marc Jacobs leading the charge. I for one am not particularly surprised. For years, high-end clothiers have resisted the call, for decades they have turned a blind eye to a developed world only increasing in size and weight and for as long as they would now care to forget, they have avoided tapping into a potentially massive (no pun intended) market; considering most fashion … [Read more...]

The Evening Dress Shirt Should Be Fitted


Flash photography can be cruel. I always smile, compassionately I might add, when friends take me through photos of “an amazing venue” they visited, only for the flash to utterly corrupt the memory by blanching the closest object and blackening the background; “Damn” my friends exclaim “it was a lot nicer than this, I swear!” The fact is, I have no doubt that it was. Flash has the capability of flattering faces, by accentuating angles … [Read more...]

Brown Suede Shoes And Suits


There is a long tradition in England of men wearing brown suede shoes with suits, in particular blue shirts. In fact my first encounter with the look came as a young shop assistant when a wonderfully irreverent and sprightly old Cavalry Colonel came in to buy a black umbrella. There was to be a parade of veterans that day in front of the regiments Honorary Colonel, Princess Ann; and “the General” had ordered him to buy one. After parading … [Read more...]

Beyond The Pale


A gentleman wakes on an average, overcast morning. He performs his toilet, selects a suit from his wardrobe and flicks through his shirts for a suitable choice. White is the colour of choice for our hypothetical gentleman, simply because it is the default of the masses; were he to select a French collared check shirt, he would have no relevance to the majority. Then he sets about choosing a tie. He opts for a pale yellow plain weave silk, … [Read more...]