Rare Moment: High Cut Edwardian Waistcoat


Whilst visiting the tailor recently, I regarded with interest one of the younger artisans trying on a suit he had begun to make for himself as one of the senior tailors conducted an informal fitting for him, dispensing advice, pinning and pulling at his junior colleague’s suit shoulders. The scene illustrated perfectly the kind of apprenticed, on-the-job training that is at the heart of bespoke tailoring. Making mistakes is all part of it; the … [Read more...]

Trouser Break: Yes or No?


One of the biggest debates I have with tailors when adjusting garments concerns the trouser break. In short: I don’t like them, tailors generally do. My dislike of them stems from aesthetic considerations, whereas their support for a break is often a split between aestheticism and tradition; some tailors make an effort of describing why a break looks better, others simply shrug with resignation that they have been taught to cut trousers thus … [Read more...]

Reader Question: Just One Suit


I’m in the market for a bespoke suit. However, I really don’t think I’ll be getting another one any time soon so I want it to be, above all things, useful. I was thinking of a blue or grey, maybe patterned (?) I want it to be adaptable for anything; city, country, dinner with friends, night out at the theatre etc. What would you recommend? What weight cloth should I get? Should it be plain/patterned? Waistcoat? I need advice! It’s a … [Read more...]

In Defence of Black Jackets and Suits


Flick through the bulk of the literature on men’s dress and you’ll find little or nothing said in favour of black jacketing and suit – even with regard to evening wear you have the midnight blue brigade to contend with. In the world of female clothing black is a necessity. You’d think similar rules would apply to men, but they don’t. The most common complaints against black include: -the colour is just too overwhelming, too stark … [Read more...]

Swap Jeans for Chinos


I consider myself a fan of denim. I love how a pair of blue jeans can define an outfit, adding something unique and immediately identifiable. I remember scrolling through Ralph Lauren lookbooks, admiring the way mustard brown soft corduroy blazers offset the hard utility of indigo denim and how a deep blue blazer lifted a pair of overwashed jeans from the commonplace to the attractively preppy. I have never bought into the ‘I hate denim’ … [Read more...]