Archives for July 2012

Linkroll: MTM Shirts, Jacket Buttons, Pierre Degand…

• Made-to-measure shirt reviews. (

• Placing buttons on a jacket. (

• The wonderful world of Pierre Degand. (

• Style icon: Ian Fleming. (

• An alternative to deck shoes. (

• 1930s style biswing jacket. (

• A spring & summer wardrobe: chambray. (

• Where to shop in London? (

• RIP Sergio Pininfarina. (

• Dress according to the time of day.  (

• Wear your blue with patterns. (

• Sale at A Suitable Wardrobe store. (

• Summer’s tweed. (

• Mr. and Mrs. Lauren’s summer uniform. (

• An example of a fine re-sole. (

• On this day 5 years ago. (

Introducing Wardson & Co.

By now my readers should know my obsession with socks – make that good socks – and I’ve recently come across another provider of quality hosiery. Wardson and Co is an e-commerce shop with roots in Spain offering a small range of socks, wraps, and foulards AKA scarves. Edson Eguer is the proprietor of W & Co and is proud of the fact that he has been able to establish partnerships with Spanish manufactures with 150 years of experience to their credit.

The majority of W & Co products are made with natural materials of wool, linen, cotton and bamboo. The wraps are made up in a towel-matching look in solids and stripes with fringed edges which give them a casual feel. They would be best used as an extra covering or small blanket for the lady on a beach date or on a chilly summer evening. The foulards are 100% wool with frayed edges and are specially dyed for an individualized look. These would be best used at the turn of the fall on casual days or weekends.

Now we come to the matter at hand. The socks come in three offerings, for businesswinter and casual. I presume that the winter socks could be worn for business as well. The business and winter socks come in over-the-calf and mid lengths. My preference is obviously for over the calf. The business socks come with a wide rib or smooth finish. They are made up of 100% Scottish woven wool and only come in solid blue, black, gray or navy. In fact these are the only colorway offerings across the board.

The winter sock comes in 100% wool with a thin rib finish in over-the-calf or mid. The causal socks are a bit more technical with a mix of Merino wool, poly, elastane etc., and only come in mid or short ankle lengths, again in blue, gray, brown or black. Unfortunately, most of the socks I received I won’t be wearing until the cooler months as they are wools and darker colors which I’m avoiding at the moment during this heat wave. However, I’ll be sure to keep you posted on how they wash and wear with time.

Edson does have plans to make the jump from Europe to the States and offer his product on a full scale. However, these things take time and he wants to be sure he has his ducks in a row first. I don’t blame him.

– Grant Harris (Image Granted, LLC)

White Trousers Pairing: White Shoes vs. Spectators

I’ll admit it: White trousers and white shoes versus White trousers and spectators is perhaps one of the more recherché debates we have begun. For a start, hardly anyone wears white trousers so the audience is, at the top end, very narrow. Secondly, even fewer own (or plan to own) white or spectator shoes. Both of these facts are unavoidable, and regrettable; white trousers are a classic, summer wardrobe staple. Every man should own a pair, and not be afraid of the consequences of doing so.

Yes, the world is a dirty place and yes, white is possibly the worst colour for concealing marks and stains but there is something brilliant about wearing white cotton trousers on a sunny day. They have a sporty preppyness and an implied optimism (no one who wears white trousers looks like they’re worried about the world).

White shoes divide opinion. They have historic form as one of the leisure shoes of summer. However, they have developed a rather tacky image, thanks to the fashions and tastes of the latter decades of the twentieth century. When I say ‘white shoes’ to friends of my age, they think not of an inter-war well-dressed gentleman aboard a steamship but of a middle-aged hustler at a 1970s disco hellhole. It is perhaps for the same reason that some white trouser aficionados choose spectator or co-respondent shoes; for them, the white shoe, logical as it seems with such a trouser, is not quite right.

I can, to an extent, sympathise with this viewpoint. Whenever white trousers and white shoes are done these days, both the trousers and shoes are in a punishingly bright ‘whitewash’ white. The best ‘white’ for trousers, or shoes, is actually off-white; the warmth in the tone is less severe and far more appealing. Secondly, ‘white on white’ does tend to get rather extravagant in modern ensembles.

Ignoring the excellent Laurence Fellows artistic suggestions, the aesthetic advice from some quarters seems to be that if the trousers and shoes are white – why not make everything white? The result, however tasteful the attempt, is Liberacean and ghastly – not to mention golf-caddyish –  and I am left wondering why a blue blazer or chocolate brown linen jacket with a club stripe tie and folded linen pocket square were not recommended. Particularly as this ‘white fest’ is clearly what people envisage when I advise them to wear white shoes with white trousers.

Spectator (or co-respondent) shoes are certainly more than acceptable for the man who cannot be rid of the image of Wayne Newton in an all white ensemble. Though at least as eyecatching as white shoes, they have a well-defined appeal that is not ‘tainted’ by unfortunate fashions. The inter-war aesthetic of them is unmistakable, but it is also their sportiness and the mixture of light and dark leathers that softens the punctuation to the white trouser.