Interview: Patrick Grant, Norton & Sons

A perennial topic on this site, and indeed other style fora, is how customers interact with their tailors when they have their first suit made.

The customer thinks he knows what he wants but he can’t quite express it – at least not in the terminology the tailor would use. And the tailor tries to divine the customer’s wishes from every source he has available: what he is already wearing, his facial expressions, his reactions to suggestions and things he tries on.

It’s a difficult process and one that takes time, hence the need for several fittings. Permanent Style spoke to Patrick Grant, owner of Norton & Sons on Savile Row, about this quandary as part of a series of pieces in a new project called Gentleman’s Corner (details to be divulged next week).

Among other things, Patrick agreed that tailors often resort to using house styles or fit generalisations (classic, slim, skinny) because of this very inability to communicate.

Permanent Style: What proportion of customers know enough about what they want when they walk in and answer all your questions?

Patrick Grant: Not many, is the honest answer. A lot of people have a good idea of how they would like to look. And a lot of them know that they like what they end up wearing, but that’s about it.

They know when the results are good. They can feel the difference from what they had before – but they won’t be able to say that the difference is because there is an inch more suppression in the waist, or the jacket is a touch longer. They know where they want to get to, but they can’t necessarily articulate how to get there.

PS: Is that first conversation difficult then?

PG: When you go into the fitting room, David [Ward, head cutter] will measure you up and have this conversation with you. It starts off a little bit broadly: ‘How would you liked this coat to be cut? Shaped, in a classic English style?’ And the customer will reply: ‘Well yes, quite shaped. But not too shaped.’

PS: So no answer at all then.

PG: Sure, but then it gets more focused, and the customer will say he doesn’t want it very fitted, really skinny. He’ll express one preference and then another, and we ease towards a vision.

Some people are also very happy to say ‘you’re the experts, you cut me a suit that is going to make me look as good as I can’. But it’s a process that takes a lot of time. On the first suit this conversation is repeated in three, sometimes four fittings. And the conversation becomes a little easier when there’s a coat to talk about and point to.

The first meeting is a little vague, but actually nine times out of ten we get it pretty right.

PS: Is it fair to say that one reason some tailors have a house style is that the customer knows what he is getting and has probably come there for that reason – saving everyone the first, vague conversation?

PG: Yes, I think that’s quite right. If you left the shape entirely up to us, you would get a suit that looks like the one on the mannequin in the shop window. That’s why the models are there, so the customer can say ‘that’s what Norton & Sons looks like, that’s what Henry Poole looks like, that’s what Huntsman looks like and this is the one I want to look like.’

PS: Do people come in and just browse sometimes? On this site we have discussed how much men would like to do that more at tailors.

PG: Absolutely, we have people come in and try suits on and have a conversation about the style, just to get an idea. It’s quite normal for people to try three or four tailors before they order.

In fact, we picked up a new customer a few weeks ago that had a suit made at ourselves and two other tailors on the Row, to see which he liked best. I won’t say who the other two were, but he had exactly the same suit, same colour same cloth, just so he could decide which he liked best.

PS: That sounds pretty meticulous. He sounds like he’s going to be a serious customer.

PG: He said he just wanted to find the best tailor for him and be able to make a real comparison.

PS: That’s what makes it hard for many newcomers to this area to get an idea of what they want – not many people, no journalist and no one on the various style sites has tried all the tailors.

PG: That’s fair. And the main reason people switch between tailors, as we’ve seen since I took over, is not an objective comparison like this customer made but just a simple feeling. They’ve been with someone for years and have a good relationship with them, but suddenly something’s just a little wrong. It’s changed and it’s not like it used to be.

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6 Tips for Clearing Your Skin of Acne

Getting acne, especially when you’re in your 20s and beyond, can be frustrating. If you are trying your luck in the dating scene or looking for that next big break at your job, try these tips to get things under control.

1. Consider Retin-A, especially if you live out of the country. You can find this product over-the-counter at pharmacies everywhere but the U.S., and it will keep your skin soft and perfectly supple. You’ll find that acne spots dry out and your skin can be easily sloughed and smoothed.

2. Sleep on it. You’ll be amazed at how much better your skin looks when you sleep. Try to reduce the all-nighters just to one day a week—you’ll see a dramatic change in your skin over just a few days.

Tip: Already get enough sleep? Be sure to change your pillowcase every few days to avoid grinding dirt and oil into your skin.

3. Go natural. It doesn’t hurt to try out new products, and you may actually make your skin worse if you try too hard to “cure” it with harsh products. When you strip your skin of oil, you’ll notice that your skin works double-time to produce extra oils to balance things. Instead, wash your face at night and apply your usual products, but then only rinse your skin with tepid water in the morning. You’ll find that your skin won’t act up during the day if you treat it nicely at night.

4. Get your blemish bomb on. Buy on-the-spot acne treatments that work overnight. While there are plenty of OTC products like Neutrogena’s On-the-Spot acne treatment, you may find that they can be difficult to remove in the morning if you don’t shower in the morning. Use a high-quality natural clay face mask to dry out larger pimples and draw out impurities—this will wash off fast without hurting your skin.

Suggested Products: Clinique Deep Cleansing Emergency Mask 3.4 oz and Burt’s Bees Herbal Spa Clay Mask are perfect choices to heal your skin quickly.

5. Invest in a cover-up. Don’t think of it as makeup. . . it can be a necessity, and if you buy the right product and match it to your skin, you’ll feel pretty confident. If you buy one cover-up stick for emergencies, I recommend choosing a heavy-duty “stick” of three-in-one color from the drugstore. Check the back to be sure that it is labeled “non-comedogenic” and save it for serious emergencies.

6. Avoid acne washes if you usually get spot breakouts. Your skin could be getting worse because of it! Acne washes can coat your skin and cause buildup, which could lead to trapped oil and yes—more breakouts! Break your ties with industrial-strength acne wash and go for something gentler, like a foaming face wash from Olay or Connie Elder.

Even if you find just one tip here on this list, you could improve your skin dramatically. Why not give them a try? It could be a good way to start of 2008—without any of the boring resolutions.

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The Finer Points of Grooming: Eight Quick Tips for the New Year

Do you feel like you’ve tried every trick out there to improve your appearance? Have you considered giving yourself a bit of man-makeover but you don’t know what to do first? Instead of making a huge vow for New Year’s, you can look better fast—without much effort after all.

1. Tweak Your Shaving Routine
Wait approximately 30 minutes after getting up in the A.M. to shave. Your facial muscles will firm up after sagging during sleep, and you will have a much easier time cutting through your whiskers when they stand up straighter from your skin.

2. Move!
If there’s one thing that you can do to improve your physical appearance right away, it’s stretch. You’ll look healthier and with better posture, you’ll look thinner, too. I’ve found some great stretches at Men’s Health.

3. Treat Your Hair Right
If you’ve been styling your hair the same way for over a year, consider pulling a trick that’s a heck of a lot more common amongst the female folk: book an appointment in the most expensive men’s salon and get a cut that adapts to your current hair situation (this is especially important if your hair has been thinning or graying). With a few updated style hints, you’ll be amazed at how better you look, and you can also get introduced to cutting-edge products.

4. Work on Your Brows
This doesn’t necessarily involve pulling out the tweezers, either. If your brows are sparse or just plain weird looking, did you ever consider wearing your glasses instead of contacts? They can draw eyes away from eyebrows that you may find distracting or annoying, and a pair of sexy frames is a lady killer.

5. Give Yourself a Cheap Hot Lather Shave
Dying for a hot lather shave but short on cash? Ring in the new year with a smooth face compliments of DIY hot lather. Spray shaving cream (just the foam type) and microwave it in a safe dish at medium for thirty seconds. Ta-da! Dip your brush in and shave away.

6. Brighten Up Your Smile
Whitening your teeth could be one of the most dramatic and easiest processes to look younger and hotter. If you can’t afford a professional Zoom-quality treatment at the dentist’s, don’t worry. Stocking up on Crest Whitestrips is much more affordable.

7. Invest in Better Skin
Do you have skin issues that you still want to—ahem—clear up? If you’re sick of messing around with random scrubs and washes, buying a basic kit that comes complete with a wash, scrub, mask, and moisturizer—in the right formulation for you. Try Proactiv, Murad, and Clinique, just to name a few, to see what works best.

8. Fight “Bacne”
Switch up your cotton shirts and grab some synthetic ones to rid yourself of back acne. While plenty of people champion natural fiber, if you’re still fighting bumps on your back, switch it up. Cotton can absorb and hold oil and grime and rub it into your back.

You’ve still got time to knock these out and start the year off fresh. . . without any resolutions at all.

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Shaving Nicks Tricks

There’s nothing worse than nicking yourself when you’re already late, you’re heading out the door, or when you’re due to be presenting at a company meeting. When it happens, you’ve got to think quickly.

Even if you’ve got a gusher, the more you rub, the more you can disturb the natural clotting process. That goes the same for peeking, too: if you check a nick often while applying pressure, you will dislodge the clot. The next time you’ve got a serious shaving nick, try these steps to stop the bleeding and get on with it.

1. Keep a styptic pencil on hand. This shaving must-have contains either sulfate or titanium dioxide to keep your nicks under control. You can find this stand-by at any pharmacy or shaving shop that stocks the basics, or online at Amazon.com and men’s grooming stores.

2. Cauterize the spot. This don’t sound half as bad as you might think—simply stick a washcloth or face flannel under a hot tap for a few seconds and then press it firmly to the nick itself. Don’t rub! If you repeat this step four or five times in a row, you’ll stop the nick from bleeding.

3. Use a little scrape of deodorant. All you need to do is get some antiperspirant on a cotton swab and then rub it on. Be sure to double-check that your antiperspirant contains aluminum!

4. Use sugar. It’s a quick remedy, and unlike the scary proposition of using ground pepper or cayenne, this won’t sting a bit. Simply pour a little sugar out on a spoon, and press some onto the cut. You can stop the bleeding almost immediately.

5. Use over-the-counter products like My Nik is Sealed. This product will glide over nicks and doesn’t sting. Keep a tube of this lip balm-like product around the washroom for emergencies. You could also consider blotting papers like Seal On, which do the trick very nicely (SealOn.com).

6. Stock up on QR powder. It stops the bleeding of 98% of cuts in a minute or less. QR Powder can be found at FirstAidMonster.com and Amazon.com.

7. Completely out of aforementioned products? Consider using Vaseline. You can apply it to a small cut to stop the bleeding pretty quickly.

If you’re still looking for a way to cut down on nicks, consider shaving right in or directly after the shower, and with a fresh blade. Experiment with razor types and creams while you’re at it to get the best results possible. Just remember: you can’t safeguard against all nicks, and that’s when this list certainly comes in handy! If you have another technique to share, comment and tell us what your secret is.

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Buying Men’s Fragrances On a Budget

Are you sold on a scent? Are you also the kind of guy who loves to save? With the additions of discount sites and sample hunting, you can smell great on the cheap.

1. Shop during the holidays. You can take advantage of the holidays in two ways: both online and at your local shop. It pays to purchase in December or February, because you are likely to find excellent shipping discounts and rush offers.

The holidays are also a good time to try out gift baskets. If you’re sold on a specific fragrance, consider spending a fraction more to get soaps, bath gels, and splashes. Take what you’ll use, and save the rest for others.

Post holidays? There’s another trick for you, then: you can find deep discounts at local chain shops and department stores when they have overstock of “holiday specific” gift packages. They’ll want to get rid of this stock immediately.

2. Get creative. Beg, borrow, and trade to find interesting new fragrances, and don’t forget to be creative while you are at it. If you’re trying to save your most expensive cologne, for example, consider adding in a coordinating shower gel, splash, spray, or aftershave and toning down the use of your fragrance to match.

3. Head straight to discount sites. You can always save money on sites that slash prices, and what’s the point of hunting for sales individually? Just one caution applies: always choose a reputable online store to stock up on that fragrance.

Consider the following online shops:

• Perfume.com: A comprehensive site with 70% off some fragrances.

• Perfumemania.com: Check out the “Bestsellers” list to see what’s hot.

• FragranceNet.com: Their easy search function makes looking for discounted perfumes easily.

4. Consider alternatives. Why not try to mix things up? If you’ve been wearing a fragrance forever, think about experimenting. You could really end up saving when you try out more affordable alternatives. When I’m looking for similar scents, I’ll head to the shops to check them out in person (and compare prices of course), or I’ll trawl blogs for advice.

5. Stockpile free samples. Samples are an easy way for you to experiment with scents for little, and you can score some easily with the following methods:

• Go to Nordstrom or Sephora, if you’re lucky enough to have one nearby. You can request carded samples or vials from these stores easily.

• Buy samples directly. You can often find sample giveaways on sites dedicated to a new perfume launch, but of course you’ll need to share your address to receive your sample! Keep your eyes open; these offers can be hard to find.

• Swing by the stores on major fragrance release dates. You’ll often score giveaways during promotional periods.

• Head to an online store that sells mainstream sample scents, such as Parfums Raffy and Perfume Bay.

• Hunt for sample collections online! If you’re a smart shopper, you can find them online at auctions sites like eBay.

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