The Real Collection of Essential Shoes

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Esquire magazine recently came up with a list of 8 pairs of shoes that “every man should own.” Intrigued by the insistence of this article’s headline, I was nevertheless disappointed with some of the, rather obviously, ‘advertorial’ choices. The first selection was inevitable; black Oxfords (which Esquire felt the need to classify as ‘lace up’ – what else is an Oxford?) However, it’s hard to dispute the primacy of this … [Read more...]

The Sartorial Season: Introduction to the Series – Ascot

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The traditional ‘London Season’, which ran from the month of April throughout the summer till August, is widely perceived to be a dead social calendar. For generations, wealthy families would decamp from their remote country piles and relocate to the capital for its duration. For the long, warm nights of the summer months it was an endless whirl of dinners, parties, races, games, balls and breakfasts. However, its raison d’etre was for a … [Read more...]

Sartorial Love/Hate: Spectator Loafers

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Spectators are to footwear what bow ties are to neckwear; eye-catching, theatrical, somewhat inappropriate for work and occasionally associated with clowns. That’s a bit harsh. Not to mention hypocritical – I’m big fans of both. However, neither are easy to pair in modern ensembles. Bow ties are jaunty and fun – but they need careful balancing, otherwise they can come off as comical. And it’s the same with spectator shoes. Wear … [Read more...]

Instichu Review

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A short while ago, I conducted an interview with Institchu UK, a subsidiary of Australian tailoring company, Institchu. To review the Institchu product, I decided on a Glen check (or Prince of Wales) three-piece – with no overcheck – in a light brown-grey colour that is remarkably flattering on the skin. The process Unlike many other internet tailors who ask that customers measure themselves, Institchu UK provide a measuring … [Read more...]

Sartorial Love Hate: Collar Popped Turtle

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"Erm, why are those dudes wearing shirts?" "What dudes?" "Those dudes. The ones wearing the turtle necks. The ones wearing their turtle necks over their damn shirts and poking the collar out at the neck." Ah Pitti. You can always rely on it to start a new fad. There were the slightly peasant like floppy hats (which even ended up in Zara) the tie back-blading (which many found obnoxious to the point of attempted strangulation) and now we … [Read more...]