One For The Albam

These beautiful loafers are my latest purchase. While highlighting them a while ago, and having lusted after them since, I’d only just got the spares together to buy them.

They’re a beautifully crafted collaboration between Northampton’s Grenson and British independent clothier Albam. Sadly, the photos don’t do them justice.

I’ve often found it difficult to qualify what Albam’s style is. The clothes come under the category of casual, but as to the aesthetic, that’s a little harder. But, if Savile Row is Cary Grant then Albam is surely Steve McQueen.

A store I mentioned briefly in my first Mensflair post, founders James Shaw and Alistair Rae are what I class as enthusiasts/designers.  Started just three years ago, these guys really do encompass the best of modern Britain; taking history and heritage as their cue, they subtly reinterpret designs for a new audience, thereby producing garments that manage to be both classic and contemporary. Aside from the painstaking attention to detail, they are sticklers for quality going to inordinate lengths to track down small British manufacturers – which you can read about on their blog.

I haven’t yet met either James Shaw or Alistair Rae, although if I could think of some original questions to ask I would. However, if you want a flavour of the men behind the company then this interview should suffice.

I have a few of their bits now and there is nothing not to like about this retailer.  And while they’ve attracted quite a bit of attention from the mainstream media recently, success hasn’t gone to their heads. The service is excellent, the chap who served me, Jude, is certainly worth a mention. They appear to have a genuine desire to work in the shop possessing an obvious enthusiasm for what they do, and for whom they do it. This translates into friendly, helpful service without attitude or pushiness. For example, when I got home I realised I’d been overcharged for the loafers. But I called the shop, they realised they made a mistake just after I’d left and were in the process of trying to contact my bank to get hold of me. Now that’s service.

London based they have just two shops (the second recently opening in Shoreditch), but for the billion or more of you who don’t live in London they do have an online store.

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What Would You Like To See? (Answers In The Comments Section)

Suppose a retailer, whose clothing and philosophy you rather liked, asked you if there was any garments you’d like to see them produce. What would you say? I’ll let you think about it for a moment.

But that is what happened to me last week. It turns out that the guys at Smart Turnout are fans of both MensFlair and BespokeMe and having read my post on military watches decided to get in touch.

An e-mail conversation ensued with Louis, their PR guy, during which he told me that ST have a new range/collection coming out this year, and it sounded rather interesting. Apparently, it will feature high end garments and accessories which tread the fine line between traditional and contemporary style, while at the same time incorporating the colours and patterns derived from famous British regiments and institutions. If they pull it off, and I have no reason to doubt they will, it should turn Smart Turnout into a full British heritage brand with a younger edge. Louis also let on that the garments will be largely British made, which strikes a cord with me.

It was after this that he asked me what I’d like to see them produce. It was evident from our conversation that they were looking for elements of originality. Typically, at this point my mind went temporarily blank (A.Williams. You are the weakest link; goodbye!).

My brain finally fired and my suggestion was a sand coloured, buggy lined, light weight, double breasted, cotton blazer/jacket with patch pockets for spring/summer. An odd choice I know but I’ve got it in my head and can’t find one anywhere. The company that makes one gets my money.

But, and this is the point of today’s post, I thought I’d throw the question out to MensFlair’s readers. Given all I’ve said, what would you like to see produced? Answers in the comments section. The guys at SM read it so who knows.

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Wrist Action

There is a pandemic spreading amongst London men. Yet again on the tube the other day I spotted a well dressed, suited and booted, young fellow sporting a load of colourful string and plastic tat around his wrist. This disease seems most contagious among the middle class and privately educated, striking down even the junior sons of House of Windsor.

This wrist tat (WT) is not part of some government scheme to tag parolees, or some ancient symbol of tribal belonging - although in certain cases there is an element of social rehabilitation, by seeking public acknowledgment for the extent of one’s charitable giving.

That said, I can and do understand there is an aesthetic quality brought about by that most useful of sartorial tricks, namely contrast. The combining of the ultra formal and the informal is something all the great dressers have demonstrated at one time or another, whether it be Fred Astaire wearing three piece suiting and button down shirts, or the Duke of Windsor using suede shoes.

I just think if you’re going to introduce a little playful wrist action to your wardrobe there are better ways to do it.

My preference is to go for the military watch and a coloured wrist band. The Forces heritage gives the look anchorage, while adopting coloured bands in obviously synthetic materials provides that devil may care informality. It goes without saying that it works well with casual summer wear, but done with suiting it can work really well.

If authenticity is your thing then England’s Cabot Watch Company (CWC) are the current suppliers of watches to Her Majesty’s Armed Forces, and have been for nearly thirty years. But, they’re not easy to come by outside of the UK. However, a favourite retailer of mine, Smart Turnout do a very reasonable Swiss made watch and have by far and away the best selection of straps, which can be bought individually.

While unlikely to permanently replace your Omega or your vintage Rolex, it is nonetheless another option for playing with contrast.

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Behind Closed Doors

I’ve always thought you can tell a lot about someone’s attitude to dress by what goes on behind closed doors. We can all put on a good display in public, but when no one’s looking that’s when we learn the truth.

As the poet John Keats said; “Whenever I find myself vaporish, I rouse myself, wash and put on a clean shirt, brush my hair and clothes, tie my shoestrings neatly, and in fact Adonisize as if I were going out – then all clean and comfortable I sit back down to write”.

No matter what I’m doing and where I am I always strive to make my best appearance; and like Keats feel better for doing so. For example, I’ve always thought the idea of sleeping naked abhorrent; even boxers and T leave me unenthused. Going to bed in a set of Derek Rose, whatever others may think, I’m content in the knowledge that should I expire in the course of the night I won’t be meeting my maker tackle out.

My other bugbear is having to pad around indoors in socks – and I can’t abide receiving guests as such. This is almost certainly a throwback to my childhood – ours was one of those dreaded shoes off households.

I consider it one of the great joys of running my own house that I can keep my footwear on indoors. Of course this isn’t always the most practical thing, or the most comfortable. For this reason, much to the amusement of all my friends, for the last ten years I’ve sported velvet slippers. Revived recently by Ralph Lauren, I personally won’t dream of wearing them outside of the house in some OTT preppy statement – saying that I have taken to wearing during flights. But for me they’re principally a home comfort.

Often referred to as the Albert (after Queen Victoria’s consort) they are not so much a slipper as house shoe, and are considered acceptable footwear for Black Tie.  Indeed for the English they are the predecessor to the loafer, or rather its acceptability.

Enjoying something of a revival, even the likes of Prada have added them to their collection. Personally, I would stick to Tricker’s (who make their own, with leather lining); Shipton & Heneage (for variety and quilted lining), Heraldic Needlepoint (Regimental Stripes) or Broadlands Slippers (exceptional pricing).

And should you feel that such things might appear effeminate, behind closed doors whose business is it but yours.

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The Case For The Cigarette Case

Having finished my last carton of Duty Free fags it’s time to make good on my New Year’s resolution and quit smoking. So I’m the last person to encourage such a bad habit – before we get any comments on irresponsibility.

But, for all those unrepentant smokers, I advocate investing in a cigarette case – and by that I mean a proper hinged case like the one above.

A bit of old school elegance from a more stylish age, the fact that most smokers don’t use them is another reason to adopt one in my view.  As long as I’ve been a smoker I’ve carried one, and there are practical benefits.

The first, and most important, is that having a packet of fags in your pocket, with its hard rectangular shape ruins the line of your suit.  A cigarette case being no more bulky than a wallet, with softer edges isn’t so obtrusive, enabling you to maintain an elegant silhouette without an unsightly bulge in your pocket.

In my own case there were other considerations for carrying one. There is some snobbery amongst cigarette smokers, the worst offenders being social smokers - that odd breed who never smoke unless it is with a drink in hand. These folk never buy fags merely beg them off of fellow drinkers.

While asking for a fag they will tell you they only smoke Marlboro Lights, and then proceed to turn their nose up at the lesser (read cheaper) brand you’ve offered them. They refuse your cigarette or take one under sufferance. But, to coin a phrase, people are suckers for a bit of magic, and when brandishing a silver cigarette case no one questioned the quality of the cigarette inside. Indeed, most assumed they were getting something special.

A cigarette case wasn’t an unhelpful ice breaker either. In the days when you could smoke in bars, it wasn’t unusual to be approached for a cigarette by women. The bringing the case out, popping it open and the rarity of seeing one usually invited comment and conversation. And as any player will tell you, initiating conversation is the first step to a successful pick-up.

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