Favourite Looks from the Spring 2008 Collections

Though the joys of spring are still a long way away, the fever is already in the air. Chunky knits lie unwanted in the bargain bins of the High Street; despite the continuing cold, overcoats are steadily being replaced with raincoats; gentlemen brave the mid-January streets without scarves or hats: now that 2008 has started it seems half of us can’t wait until the first quarter of it is bally well over. And there is an awful lot to look forward to. In November and December, the barren trees in St James and The Green Parks merely offered ghostly reminders of that forgotten summer; a summer that seemed to be from another lifetime, but with the ringing in of the New Year, and the squeaking of a fresh calendar, once more we look to the ‘universal favourite’ of seasons.

The shiny new collections are now flowing into shops, feeding our spring appetites and it’s a refreshing change from the overcoats and scarves that have been bulging from the shelves since October. It’s always rather nice to have something to look forward to so here are my four favourite outfits from the spring 2008 collections.

Valentino

The subtle elegance of this outfit is what draws me to it. While there are certainly more fantastical creations around for the coming season, there is a healthy, appealing crispness to this combination. Firstly, the trousers, cut at a perfect length, are of a lovely Bordeaux vintage red. Bright red trousers will be everywhere this spring, doubtless worn with navy blazers, and while such a look is of perennial appeal, this calmer and more patrician tone offers individuality. The patent loafers, looking rather Stemar, are one of the most versatile designs available; suits, chinos and denim are all suitable. The icing-on-the-cake of this ensemble is what covers the torso; the subtle Seychelles-sand roll neck and the off-white two-button jacket look simple enough at first glance, but it’s the lovely contrast of texture: while the jumper is a soft item, rippling like brandy cream, the jacket is clearly of a stiff but fine cotton with a good shape. The proverbial cherry is the cherry coloured pocket square, breaking the monotony of the white jacket.

Etro

Unconventional colours are a rather large hit with designers this season. This is a perfect example; the jacket material has an interesting 1970s-motel-room-lampshade quality, which is lifted by the detail around the lapels, and the complementary Dijon mustard striped shirt sets a smart background for the playful bow-tie and corsage. The lower half is sober enough; café latte straight leg tailored trousers, but the really delightful touch is the dual toned egg yolk and chocolate shoes.

Ralph Lauren

This particular outfit is rather traditional in silhouette and delivery but it manages to avoid the staidness normally associated with these aristocratic concoctions. The beautifully cut lime coloured trousers are a strong feature and serve to freshen the traditionalistic blazer, shirt and cravat. The blazer itself works a returning trend; double-breasted clothing and the cravat is more Missoni than Turnbull & Asser which helps to modernise the ensemble.

DSquared

One of the things I admire about the erratic DSquared is the ability to team casual pieces with more formal and luxe items. These black trousers, with their stiff, matt sheen are normally seen with sharp two button jackets, but the Italian designers have matched them with a casual short sleeved zipped polo shirt with black detailing. Underneath, a white shirt with a black tie keeps the overall look a sharp one.

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The Urban Adventurer

I’ve noticed a lot more urban adventures out there this winter. They’re not out climbing glaciers or trekking the Appalachian Trail. Nope – they are just going to work. These guys look like they’re in the process of summiting K2, or in Washington’s case, Capitol Hill. You’ve probably seen them too; out driving their sport edition Range Rover (spotless), carrying their laptop to work in an expedition quality back pack and weathering the weather in a Patagonia blizzard-proof parka.

Now, I don’t want to pick a fight with anyone. I’ve said at least a dozen times that classic, preppy styles center around the idea of repurposing functional clothing for daily life. I mean, who do you think started the trend of wearing foul weather gear to the office anyway?

Most people follow this train of thought in some way. The difference here is that too often men who yearn to be manly men turn themselves in to affected parodies of their heroes.  Everyone role plays a little bit; I like messenger bags, but I’m no bike messenger. Some wear military fashions yet have never so much as scraped a knee, or sport team jerseys that barely fit over their couch potato paunch.

These looks are usually a desire to connect with a cherished role model or organization. It’s a search for identity and belonging; aspirational but not overblown.

Yet when it comes to the couture mountain man look, moderation seems to go out the window. Even if you really are a transcontinental hiker, please don’t wear your Fortress Peak GTX hiking boots to the office. It’s tacky.

When worn in moderation, I think the outdoors look is classic, fresh and emotionally fulfilling. One feels a little more independent, perhaps a bit lone wolf about life. While I do agree with my fellow contributor Winston Chesterfield, that strapping on a back pack while wearing a business suit is tantamount to sartorial blasphemy, the pairing of a technical jacket with selected business attire is really quite pleasing.

Basic rules of proportion hold true: your outer coat should cover any suit or sport jacket underneath and avoid any outsized puffy jackets. A mountaineering jacket may be rugged and functional, but its scale and overall feel should match your other clothing.

If done well, the look says you are at home in both the outdoors and the corner office. It should not look gimmicky or forced. If you are wearing a bespoke cashmere Brioni and alligator slip ins, leave the parka at home.

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“Black is the New Black”

Black has always been the most iconic color in terms of classic sophistication and so it’s of little surprise that the hue of choice for brooding intellectuals is once again back in fashion. Living in New York means that at least half of my wardrobe is either black or gray. It is a given that in the case that in most cities and professional settings, the de rigueur color is black. Beyond this though, black is also the vehicle for many fashion statements as well as the patron color for creative types.

Samuel Beckett, the acclaimed expatriated writer, most exemplifies the essence of what the color black is supposed to convey. Spending his time in cafés, writing and pondering the philosophical questions of his day, he was a man of ideas and his dark clothes helped to create a tangible identity that complimented his literary persona.

The problem with black comes in its abuse, too much will have you looking like a stage-hand and inappropriate, disjointed pieces will send the message either that you are going through a period of angst or are in mourning. If neither of these describes your situation, it is always safe to add some other neutral colors to the mix, principally white or gray to avoid the probable confusion.

Wearing black pants with a black dress shirt and then a different colored sweater is a look that is basically fail-safe and easy adaptable for just about any social milieu. This solves the problem of black over-kill and can be either casual when worn without a tie or dressier with one, either being likely appropriate for the office. The other completely viable option is to wear a white dress shirt with a black sweater overtop.
Sweater and jeans from Dolce and Gabbana.

Mixing black with gray and white tailored pieces is a refined look that is appropriate in any setting. In this example, the black serves a more formal purpose rather than being a fashion statement. When wearing elements of black such as a cardigan or sweater, you will most likely also need to wear black shoes to make the outfit cohesive.
Cardigan and pants from Armani Collezioni.

A black turtleneck is a great piece that expresses sophistication and intelligence. It is easy to imagine Beckett receiving guests in the bar-lobby of a Parisian hotel after having finished an espresso and a carton of Camels. As opposed to the other outfits, which incorporate several other elements such as shirts and ties, you don’t run the risk of black overkill. Corduroy pants have an old-world feel that compliment and complete an intellectual writer look in a way that jeans absolutely could not. Pairing the sweater with gray trousers and black shoes is a possibility that will make the outfit less brooding and more trendy.
Cable Knit Sweater from Alexander McQueen.

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‘Structured Casual’ Look

One of my favorite looks, regardless of changing fashions and trends is what I would define as “structured casual.” In contrast to the bohemian intellectual look, this style is more sophisticated and urbane as well as likely easier to coordinate with the items you already have in your wardrobe. It’s the ideal outfit for either a museum excursion, dinner date at a trendy restaurant, or even a fashionable casual Friday at the office.

The most important elements of this look are slim jeans paired with dressier items such as narrow-toed brogues, dress shirts, and ties. The jeans you choose should be tapered at the leg and dark-colored. Right now, there seems to be a trend towards cropped jeans that end right below the ankle so as to show off the shoe. Unfortunately, this is almost impossible without the aid of a tailor as almost all jeans are sized to the same insanely long length despite a varying waist measurement. Levis Matchstick Jeans ($138)

The shirt and tie combination are the driving force and also what give the look a certain elegance and refinement. Unlike the current trends, this look eschews plaid and flannel in favor of more classic styles. A white shirt with a high collar is clearly the most versatile choice but striped and other patterned shirts are other alternatives. Tucking the shirt in is an absolute must; the days of the slovenly un-tucked shirt are over. Though the skinny tie-look with a business suit is mostly finished, they still go well with this style. Solid Knit Skinny Tie ($50)

Substituting dress shoes instead of sneakers when wearing jeans is always encouraged, regardless of what style you are trying to emulate. For the “structured casual” look in particular, a pair of narrow shoes looks best with slim jeans. I wear this pair from To Boot New York on a daily basis and constantly receive compliments on them. The fading around the toe and back of the shoe is a cool effect that differentiates it from more traditional or banal brown shoes. It is important to note that even though you are wearing jeans, white socks are not permissible with dress shoes. Rather, you can display some creativity with your choice of socks, either opting for something colorful or just basic black/brown.

To complete this style, a belt is a necessity. While wearing jeans and a T-shirt offers much more discretion as to whether or not to include a belt, forgoing one when wearing a dress shirt looks remiss. Thin belts are the look to opt for as they generally work better with slim jeans.

For colder weather, adding a waist-length trench coat helps establish the lines that create the “structure” in this look. Other ideas for making the look more winter appropriate include either wearing a fitted cardigan or sweater over the shirt. Don’t be afraid to tuck your sweater into your jeans; rather than looking over thought, the clean lines created by this will make you look slimmer and better put together. Short Trench Coat ($130)

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Dangerous Trends

As everyone knows, not all trends are for everyone, and some trends prove to be for no one. When a trend is too innovative or ‘out-there,’ it’s usually an indication of a short life span. Witness such expired trends as destroyed jeans, 80’s neon colored fabrics, underwear as outerwear, and the list continues almost infinitely.

Other trends, however, are somewhere in the middle between completely wearable and outrageous. I call them dangerous trends because when not worn correctly, they can end up looking horribly wrong and laughable. It takes a certain type of person who is advanced in their style of dressing and is adept at experimenting with clothes.

Fur hat

Fur has been making a subtly growing comeback both among men whose goal is to be deviously provocative as well as avant-garde hipsters. While fur coats are still a long way from being acceptable to the mainstream, fur accessories seem to be undergoing resurgence in popularity. After Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2007 collection included fur accented and even three-quarter length fur coats, other designers have followed suit. Hats and scarves make for opulently warm and luxurious pieces, and can even look good when worn the right way and by the right person. The danger, coming not only from being attacked by PETA supporters, is also inherent in that you can easily look like an eccentric throwback from Stalin’s Russia or Daniel Boone.

Metallic blazer

I don’t think I’m going out on a limb in saying that this does not look good on anyone. Not only has not enough time passed since the 70’s to make this new or interesting, but the overall fashion-forwardness of it makes it too risqué for most people to wear. My theory for the existence of this trend is that after metallic handbags for women were such a hit over the summer, designers had a surplus of material they didn’t want to waste.

Slim collar

The thin-collared shirt is a style that had disappeared for a time and has now been reincarnated as the preferred shirt of hipsters (after plaid, of course). The problem with these shirts is that the collar can give a certain look of impotency, in contrast to a high collar, which can make the wearer look powerful and commanding. Therefore, it’s best not to wear them in place of a tradition shirt for any formal or even moderately dressy occasion.

White jeans for winter

White pants for winter are another sartorially tricky item to pull off. Everyone knows the dictum about not wearing white after Labor Day, but this is really an outdated and baseless rule. There are a few basic guidelines to effectively wearing this trend and not causing stares or raised eyebrows. First, white pants should never be worn when it’s gray or raining outside for the simple reason that it looks indecent and flashy. By contrast, on a sunny day, white pants can give you a ‘mod’ look when worn with black ankle boots and a striped sweater.

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