Raw Denim Jeans

One of the biggest trends in jeans at the moment is raw denim, referring to jeans that have not ever been treated or washed with chemicals. While at first they are stiff and almost feel like a corset for your legs, they will over time both expand and conform to your body, becoming unique to your shape.

One of the most important things when buying a pair is that they fit like a glove (a very tight one) from the onset. When you try them on, they should be so tight that it is at first difficult to pull them up. I recently bought a pair of A.P.C raw denim jeans and thought I was going to have a stress-induced stroke just trying to close the top button. The reason for this is that in just a few months, the jeans will expand and gain at very least, an inch in the waist.

When you first wear them, they feel incredibly stiff and movement itself is quite limited. This sensation takes a few months to go away completely as the jeans are broken in, but they become manageable even after the first full day of wearing them. You can speed this process by wearing them around the house and just moving in them. An important caveat, however, is that they may bleed onto light colored shoes or surfaces so you must be wary for the first few days of this.

When you have your jeans, it’s important to not wash them for least six months. During this period, they are still conforming to your body and washing them will severely interrupt this process. If they become unbearably dirty, you can have them dry cleaned or even put them in the freezer to get rid of any odor. On the A.P.C. ‘instruction manual’ that came with the pair I bought, one of the more extreme washing remedies advised, “Let your jeans get dirty for as long as possible, go swimming in the ocean wearing your jeans, rub your jeans with dry sand, and repeat several times. Rinse in fresh (not salt) water and let dry in the sun).” Besides possibly accelerating the deterioration process, I see no real world benefit in engaging in such time consuming and obsessive behavior.

If you are not the kind of person who likes neither the idea of having an instruction manual for your jeans nor having to work at getting them broken in, do not buy raw denim jeans. For those who are willing to work at it, the end result is both gratifying and rewarding. After six months of wear, your jeans will show lines and creases at natural places on your body and will tell a story about you. They will fit you better than any other pair of jeans you have ever owned previously and like life’s battle scares, you’ll be damn proud of the story behind every rip and hole in them.

I recommend A.P.C’s “New Cure” jeans ($140), which have a tapered leg and no unnecessary or pretentious markings or logos.

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The Newest Trend is… ‘Timeless Classic’

If you are not a fan of the rampant lumberjack-bohemian look that has taken fashion by storm this season, you are neither alone nor out of luck. There has been a subversive trend steadily brewing that is as refined and sophisticated as the lumberjack look is common and dated.

The return in popularity of classic fabrics such as houndstooth, herringbone, and tweed has brought with it a resurgence of other timeless pieces, which together create an old-world sophistication. While never having actually gone out of style, it seemed to be in a period of hibernation, suffering through metaphorical winters of the 70’s and 80’s, only to be seen on those dandies fighting to keep alive the tradition of dressing with elegance and pride.

Spotted on the feet of Manhattan’s well-heeled (pun intended) community, are suede loafers, brogues, and boots, which are in many ways more sumptuous and versatile than the same options in leather. One of the best things about suede is that it is both acceptable for almost any office dress code during the workday and can also be transformed into a casual shoe for nightly trysts or escapades. The suede loafer, especially, is one shoe that will never go completely out of style as fashions change. The gold standard is invariably from either Gucci or Ferragamo ($590, pictured) because of their trademark hardware detailing on the shoe that gives it the extra something to complete the look. For a less expensive, though still admittedly pricey shoe, Gordon Rush ($175) makes a great pair for a fraction of the cost.

Suede boots are yet another way to show off your pre-eminent fashion ability while also impressing others with your sensibility. In the form of desert boots, like this pair from John Varvatos ($298), they are rugged and stylish in a way that a pair of Timberlands cannot be (though I still wouldn’t endorse them as a viable substitute for use in a construction site at the price by which they sell). As seen in the photo below, they can also be easily dressed up to look sophisticated, making it the only shoe that can take you from the back yard to the back seat of the company car.

Another item experiencing a renaissance, even among younger people is the patterned scarf, like this one from Loro Paina ($495). While plain, monochrome scarves are great for everyday wear, patterned ones add flair to your outfit and can even become its centerpiece due to their eye-catching design. Also in the realm of scarves, making a comeback is the silk scarf and riding on its coattails, the ascot. While neither provides much in the way of practicality or warmth, when was fashion really ever about practicality?

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Leather Ankle Boots: Trendy, Stylish and Practical

One trend that has been on the steady rise this fall is the resurgence of stylish, leather ankle boots that can be worn either dressed up or casually.

The leather boot is a great item because it gives men another option between the sometimes-limited choice of either loafers or regular lace-ups. They thus add an extra flair to an outfit that says the wearer tasks risks and is confident in his style decisions.

For a dressed up look, they can easily be used as a substitute for either loafers or oxfords, depending on the suit. In general, dress boots tend to be on the side of modernity and therefore look better with equally modern suits; the slim-cut, two button styles. This pair from John Varvatos ($479) demonstrates that simplicity and restraint are the highest qualities in men’s shoes.

An easy way to wear boots more casually is to choose a brown pair. These are much more easily matched with varying hues of jeans, meaning you get more versatility and wearability. The exact same pair of John Varvatos boots in brown shows the remarkable difference that color can have on the ‘formalness’ of a shoe. Here, the handsome, marbled wood appearance makes them acceptable wear for an everyday look that would not be appropriate in black.

My favorite look is a pair of dark skinny jeans with boots and a waistcoat, which I witnessed to be a very popular look among young, fashionable Londoners last spring. It’s clearly not a look that is easily pulled off by many; a certain je ne sais quoi, rocker-chic is necessary trait for the wearer.

When buying a pair of boots, one thing to make absolutely sure of is that the end be pointed rather than round. While, a rounded pair will make you look old and patently uncool, a narrow point indicates self-assuredness as well as being generally much more fashion forward, if that’s what you are pursuing. Another thing to avoid are ‘hybrid’ boots that have laces but still try to masquerade as a dress boot, or even worse, turn into a ‘combat boot’. Pictured pair from Costume National is a heinous and glaring example of what can happen when the two very separate entities are combined: You end up looking like a combination of Hermione Granger and a suburban, gothic mallrat.

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Wearable Trend to Embrace Right Now

This picture, taken from the Mulberry website, showcases the look of this season. The leather bomber jacket, the plaid shirt, braided belt, and slim dark-wash jeans are all integral pieces for anyone looking to follow the latest trends. Even with the plaid shirt, however, I would not classify this look as “bohemian intellectual.” Rather, the slim-fitting bomber jacket and jeans provide a structure to this look that is more the Ramones than Woody Allen.

With the exception of the braided belt, this is a look that won’t soon go out of style. Every man should have a bomber jacket in his closet. They are great for a casual night when wanting to add an element of timeless cool to your outfit and for staying warm well into the winter. When buying one, you should look for a style that is cut close to the body and ends right below your belt. If the jacket is too small, it will look effeminate (as is almost the case in the above picture). This one from Dolce and Gabbana ($1,395) fits perfectly and also has an immaculate style that will still be cool in thirty years (which is almost enough time to justify the price).

For the belt, the trick is not to just find any old, braided variety. Previously existing only in the realm of grandpa fashion, design houses from Prada to Balenciaga gave the braided belt a much-needed reworking, making them wider and sturdier. This one from Diesel ($70) is one of the coolest and most stylish you can buy. It has a distressed looking front with the rest in braided leather, clearly distinguishing it from your father’s golfing belt.

Despite my avowed detest for all things plaid, I surprisingly don’t find this shirt terribly odious. The red, white, and gray color scheme keeps it simple and not looking too much like a tablecloth pattern. This one from J.Crew ($50) is almost identical in pattern. Just be wary that a bad pairing of plaid and leather will leave you looking like one of the Village People.

In the spirit of this outfit, a pair of boots would be a great addition to pull the look together. This pair from Mezlan ($149) are both affordable and undeniably stylish. The subtly Western look brings another dimension to your outfit without being overwhelming or tacky. When wearing slim jeans, make sure that the leg of the jean goes fully over the boot instead of tucking it in, which cannot be done without looking like the guy who’s trying way too hard.

For a pair of dark jeans, refer to my article about the season’s best jeans.

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Mastering the Rumpled Look

Cooler weather is always more kind to men when it comes to getting dressed in the morning. We can layer, pull out the cords, throw on a chunky jacket and top it off with a warm scarf. The sheer variety of cool weather clothing is something many a man looks to as the thermometer drops.

For those of us with the flexibility to move between business dress and corporate casual, what I call the “Rumpled Look” is a middle alternative to just dressed up and dressed down. Originally an offshoot of the American Preppy aesthetic, the rumpled look has come into its own.

The basic idea behind this style is the allusion to old money, classic taste, and timeless style. Newer or continental styles don’t lend themselves to celebrating beat up and handed down clothes quite like the preppy culture does. The unspoken message of the slouchy khakis, un-ironed oxford shirt and slightly beat up shoes is that you have old money, an Ivy League education, a summerhouse in the Hamptons, and you sail a lot. Or at least you dress like you do.

I have to say that this really is a fun look which is not hard to carry off well as long as you don’t try too hard. Like the current “critter” trend, with pants, ties, belts and coats are adorned with embroidered animals and icons of every sort – dogs to martini glasses – less is more. One creative article of clothing at a time is ironic, more is overkill.

For most men, wearing this look at the office can be a bit tough, but depending on your company’s culture, distressed chinos matched up with a wrinkled button down under a crewneck sweater should be just fine. For a younger look, don’t tuck in the shirt but rather let it hang out under the sweater. Wear a washed tweed jacket over the whole outfit. This kind of layering effect is another signature of the rumpled look. To meet up with friends for drinks, try pairing a permanently wrinkled Thomas Pink dress shirt with dressy jeans and a sport coat. The juxtaposition of classic and casual is a key balance to this look.

Like any other style you want to incorporate into your own, stop and look in the mirror before leaving the house. You want to be happy with the overall feel and proportion of your outfit. The goal should be to look like you’ve had everything for years and don’t think twice about getting dressed.

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