Turn Lumberjack Style into Bohemian Intellectual Look

It’s no secret that fashion run in cycles and things that were once fashionable will almost always come back in style. It is nonetheless a little sad and disheartening that truly atrocious styles can’t be weeded out for good. When the seventies were over, I believe it was the general consensus that the Village People-lumberjack look was over. Not so, apparently.

Though not an exact copy of the late 70’s look, the lumberjack style has been reincarnated as what I would call a “bohemian intellectual look.” Making their way back into not only the pages of GQ, but also quickly spreading into the streets, are bootcut jeans, plaid shirts, corduroy jackets, and oversized sweaters.

This is a clear departure from the past few couple years of structured pieces and slim cut jeans. The worst perpetrator of this style has been J. Crew. Because of its accessible prices, it has been able to promulgate among the masses.

I have never liked plaid so I am clearly biased against its resurgence. The entire grunge look of the 90’s was a dark time for style. I believe that it set the stage for an entirely new level of lower standards when it came to dressing as grunge was, in a sense, a repudiation of fashion.

To be fair, I think there is a way to embrace the trend in a classic way that exudes “weekend at the country manor” rather than hipster punk. Tartan does, after all, possess a rich history dating back to Braveheart days. Shawl collar and toggle close sweaters are two ways of interpreting the style in a positive way.

Another decent aspect of the “bohemian intellectual” look is the importance of layering. This means that you shouldn’t get rid of your cardigan just yet. One good approach of making this work in the dead of winter would be to wear a down vest over a shirt and cardigan, then finish with a close cut overcoat. I like the contrast of new and old this creates. For a discreet nod to the plaid trend, you could include a tartan scarf from Burberry or elsewhere. As for the bootcut jeans, I recommend staying away and opting for just straight leg jeans, which are a compromise between skinny jeans and flared ones.

With this trend, you can also expect to see more clothes in earth tones and a move away from black and gray. The shoe of choice to match would be a moccasin unless you are actually going to be at your country manor, in which case may I suggest the Hunter rain boot (pictured).

If you are in a lumberjack mood, J. Crew is currently having a fall sale where you’ll be able to stock up on enough plaid to clothe an entire Irish village.

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Americana Look: The Urban Cowboy Trend

It is rare that I applaud fashion. Style is far more important to me than trend, and it is to that Pantheon of style icons that I pay homage. As Oscar Wilde once said,“fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.” It is that unappealing temporary charm that puts me off fashion; that risk of buying something which will be worthless in half a year. I am never a slave to fashion.

However, fashion has its moments. They are rare and fleeting, but they are there. Once in a while it learns to provide practical style which will last from season to season, year to year. One particular autumn and winter trend has been the Americana look; checks and plaids, sport shirts, corduroy and cosy thick weave scarves. “Nothing” you may cry, “that hasn’t been in GAP for the last ten years!” Perhaps you are right. Perhaps there is nothing that revolutionary about the look, but does there need to be? It’s just something that fits so very well with the cold season. Cosy materials, patterns echoing a bright practicality, and accessories galore make the look thoroughly appropriate for the coming months.

Plaid and denim

One of the most comforting things about this look is that you can relax in the clothing without fear. It is a very casual look and the less contrived and the more ‘lived-in’ the outcome the better. Denim does not have to be skinny, dark and straight. In fact, the best denim to wear with this urban cowboy uniform is washed, old looking denim. The dark and shiny Dior Homme jeans are not appropriate – the plaid and denim man has to look like he cares less about the fineness of threads and more about unswept leaves on the driveway.

Boots and coats

Plaid shirts and college-style blazers and cord jackets are very charming in a New England way. However, the key to the outback dandy’s image is the lack of formality. Lapels begone! Big chunky coats are a central part of this look. Hacking jackets and duffel coats offset the hick charm of plaid and check and keep the palette under control; their versatility allows for multiple layering.

Footwear should be carefully considered also. The urban cowboy has no need for Wellington boots, but practical shoes and boots with a Commando sole do work well and are very comfortable for cold winter days. They also help to promote the casual weekender appeal of the look.

Scarves and hats

Scarves for this look are big and chunky. No skinny scarves or delicate silk here. A man needs a scarf that looks almost childlike in its naivety. Huge weave, snake-like creations and tartan are the key trends for scarves. If wearing tartan, avoid wearing with too many checked or plaid items – overkill would be a shame.

Hats are important for the urban cowboy. He likes to be outside, it reminds him of being at home on the range, and he needs some practical headgear to keep his ears warm. Beanies, woodsman caps and driving hats are the order of the day. Nothing too elaborate, just a little nod to design by incorporating a houndstooth or check pattern.

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Wearing Now: Men’s Runway Trends Fall-Winter 2007-2008

Sometimes runway round-ups can leave you feeling like you’ll be out of style because you can’t find anything that looks quite right, but this fall and winter will bring you something that suits you very, very well. If you’re sporty, refined, or even a combat boots-loving guy, this is your season to work in your personal style.

Ski and Snow Details
Parkas, ‘70s throwback racing stripes, and Fair Isle sweaters have that fun, retro vibe that really works this winter. With an elegant addition of soft fur and bold graphic stripes, you’re styling on and off the slopes.

Don’t be afraid to go totally vintage this season when you rock the ski trend. Comb through vintage shops and even your grandfather’s ski trunk to grab styles that scream Aspen, a-frames, and aviators. To avoid looking too much like a blast from the past, aim for a more modern pair of boots and dark, slim jeans.

On the Runway
Missoni deviated from stripes this season with a snowflake theme, and you’ll feel pretty darn fresh when you pair this sweater with textured wool or corduroy trousers and boots. Michael Bastian also had a rather distinctive ski sweater look for winter, which is available in a way-vintage, traffic-cone orange color with black accents. (Definitely not for the faint of heart.) This runway bright looks great when layered, as it will be toned down and tamed with a darker colored jacket or blazer.

Modern and Combat Styles
Futuristic styles were married with more militaristic looks for fall and winter. Grab a pair of high black boots or more heavyweight lace-up shoes, and sling on a black jacket to complete tough-guy style (even if you’re secretly not). What a way to get some respect!

On the Runway
This is one such case when you’ve got to be able to filter out extremely militaristic styles for just a hint of combat cool. Runway looks varied from Emporio Armani basic, well-shaped pieces, to the more extreme looks of Galliano’s hooded, dark separates. Choose heavyweight, laced boots or a combat-esque jacket, but play it cool and try not to pile on too many items to avoid being confused with a SWAT sniper.

Americana Look
Are you an English gentleman, a hopeless romantic, or a closeted academic type? Tweeds are the perfect touch for fall and winter 2007/2008 if you need something that has structure and strong lines. If softer, more casual looks aren’t your thing, then the tweed trend is just what you need.

Tip: If you need budget-friendly additions to your wardrobe, try out plaid wool and houndstooth caps, such as ones from traditionalist-gone-trendy milliner Frenel Morris.

On the Runway
Fair Isle prints are an easy way to steal a look straight off the runway, and what’s simpler than a basic pullover for coordinating with the rest of your closet? Usual suspect is Ralph Lauren. If you’re into the plaid scene instead, check out Paul Smith and Billy Reid, who brought it home with earthy tones and sophisticated silhouettes in coats and jackets

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The Waistcoat Renaissance

Many wardrobe items experience a renaissance. It is well known that even fashion has its limits; classic designs are rarely bettered, and instead of replacing what works, designers merely alter and sometimes improve timeless pieces.

The necktie has ballooned and dieted more than a narcissistic Californian; a tiny slither one minute, a vast kipper the next. Shirts had frills, and then no frills; the fact remained that it was still a piece of cloth which buttoned down the centre of a man’s torso. more…

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Hairstyles on the New York Runway: Spring 2008 Offers Plenty of Choice

You may just have a grasp on fall hairstyles, but why not look forward to spring? Popular styles have been all over the runways in New York, and when you’re cultivating your winter ‘do, you’ll know exactly how to make the crucial season-to-season transition. Or, is there such a thing as fall and spring hairstyles at all? Good hairstyle is a good hairstyle, right? Go ahead, take a look, and get ahead of the crowd. No reason to not fashion new styles already. (New York Spring 2008 runway pictures) more…

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