Sartorial Love/Hate: The Bar Collar


“Errr…naff!” said an acquaintance peering in to TM Lewin’s window on Jermyn Street.

The object of his disgust was a plain white shirt with a puppy tooth silver tie. I failed to see the connection between his comment and the ensemble. “What’s wrong with it?” I asked, half expecting a tirade against TM Lewin and their lurch towards a ‘lower standard product’ –
an increasingly common refrain.

“Those bar collars are just so horrible.”

“Really? I think they’re quite natty” I replied “and also, they provide the perfect setting for a jolly good tie arch.”

“No” he responded, without skipping a beat “terrible. Absolutely terrible.”

I almost felt insulted. As though someone had decried my favourite London building as an austere carbuncle.

I have wanted a bar collared shirt for some time, ever since I began to spend idle student afternoons watching cocktail-filled black and white movies. Back then, there was no local Lewin stocking a generous range. The bar collar hadn’t hit the mainstream. It was still a specialist, antiquated product with no modern cultural relevance.

Nowadays of course, there are a multitude of popular references, most notably glossy television dramas like Boardwalk Empire and Mad Men. The latter is undoubtedly the most significant influence on the country’s wider fashion trend for skinny lapels and tie pins, particularly because Gary Barlow – never really known for sartorial distinction – exposed the sleek, Sinatra-esque look to an entirely different audience on the bafflingly popular and utterly risible performance circus ‘X Factor.’

It is perhaps because of this that my acquaintance views them as ‘naff’. After all, no self-consciously discerning chap would respect a sartorial niche once it has been endorsed by primetime commercial television. It becomes dirty and cheap, sullied by the glare of studio lights.

However, for me there is no such taint.

To me, the bar collar still makes me think of a winking cad in a pre-war cocktail bar or Bertie Wooster, adjusting his tie in a walnut mirror. It has a special, jewel-like quality that suggests a sense of occasion. Ideal for morning dress, or another formal outfit, it perhaps lacks the practicality required for it to be an everyday item. However, this is no bad thing. Particularly considering that increasing ubiquity is one of the chief complaints of detractors.


Winston Chesterfield is an amateur composer, fashion blogger, trained lawyer and style aficionado. He lives in Westminster, London and blogs at


  1. Winston, I think the problem is that they DID actually achieve a populist revival in the early-mid eighties, so gentlemen a smidge over forty (like myself) recall wearing them as teenagers along with sta-prest trousers and skinny ties. Hence the slightly uncomfortable reminiscence.

    I do actually think they can look quite smart, though……

  2. Safety pin yes. Bar definitely no!

  3. Brian Tyler says:

    Not that fashion was the best in the 80s, but there was a resurgence of little elements and accessories that made clothes a little more flamboyant. Bar collars, vested suits, pocket watches and Double Alberts, fobs and the like. It might not be looked at as fashion forward today with 10,000 patterns on one outfit….but it looked a hell of a lot better.

  4. Argh yes James, I, like you, fall into the ‘smidge over forty’ brigade and remember with much fondness my sta-press trousers and tie pin shirt…
    But – I also cringe, remembering the white socks and loafers that went with them!

  5. At least the fashion of the 80’s was several steps up from the 70’s. Being a “smidge” over 60 , my menories of the 80’s are a bit different. I have, wear and love my bar collared shirts.

  6. Menories!! Men’s memories? Please forgive my stumbled fingered spelling error.