Travel Etiquette

This is the time of year when holiday joy runs head-on into travel despair. When it comes to vacations, holidays, or business trips, how you prepare makes a huge difference. Treat your travel like any other meeting or public event. Dress nicely, play well with others, and accept that stuff happens.

First off, let’s all agree that traveling by plane or train is fraught with potential scheduling disaster. Late or canceled flights, speed restrictions, or damaged track can lead to a feeling of powerlessness, resulting in frustration and anger.

While the kind of problems described above can throw off even the best planning, more often than not it’s the creature comforts and day-to-day travel issues that cause the most stress.

Dressing for Travel

Whether traveling for business or pleasure, I always dress as though I am going to run into someone important. For business, it means I wear my suit and good shoes and pack the casual stuff. For pleasure, I’ll pass on the jeans and wear a nice pair of khakis or corduroys, and have a jacket or sweater handy.

The main goal is to dress well as opposed to dressing for a sleepover or cleaning out the garage. I make a conscious decision to look better than I have to look. Part of the issue is that I get irritated at how sloppy and disrespectful so many travelers appear. Portfolio recently ran a very good article on this topic.

It also goes without saying that I try and get everything I need in a carryon bag. Conversely, if that’s not possible, I’ll pack all the essentials in the carry on and pray that my checked bag arrives when and where I do. Don’t over pack your carryon; otherwise you’ll have a whole new level of frustration trying to squeeze it into a too-small overhead compartment.

Dressing nicely shows respect to my fellow travelers and to the airline or train crew. I am entering their office, their workspace. If I would never dress like a slob to visit a client’s office, why would I do so in the intimate environment of a plane?

Travel experts tell us over and over that how you dress directly impacts the treatment you get from the gate agents and flight crew. Just accept it; people are judged by how they dress. Everyone makes these kinds of judgments; we just don’t like it when it happens to us and the outcome is not in our favor.

Attitude

This particular subject means a lot to me. I spent a great deal of my younger years in the retail environment, which is all about relationships. While I always wanted to do well by my customers, I am of the belief that the customer is not always right.

The customer is not the most important person in the store. The line salespeople are; as are the managers, stock room, and shipping staff. Staff is what makes companies succeed and when you have staff that wants to give their customers the best service possible, everyone wins. Permitting customers to run roughshod over your employees is totally counterproductive. This is not saying employees are always right, it just means they are not human punching bags for cranky customers.

Treat airline staff, or any other staff for that matter, with respect and patience. You may be ticked off, but do you want to switch places with the gate agent who just announced that a flight was cancelled? You want that job? When they know that you are an adult and that you recognize line staff does not run the company, they are more likely to remember and look after you.

This happened to my wife and me on a trip to Europe. Our flight was cancelled after a hellacious drive to the airport though pounding rain only to be met with a disorganized sea or angry travelers. When I finally made it to the counter, I knew we would never get on the flight. I was angry and tired but made every effort not to take it out on the airline agent; it wasn’t her fault.

I was as reasonable as possible under the circumstances, expressed my exasperation and made it clear that I was venting in general, but not at her. It must have paid off somewhere because when everyone was finally issued tickets for the new flight we were upgraded to first class.

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Icons of Timeless Style – Part II: Albert Einstein, Thomas Keller

As I continued to mull over who I consider real icons of style, I made an effort to look past the obvious. As one reader helpfully pointed out, while my fist two choices are certainly icons of style, they were not particularly unexpected.

I cannot argue with this; both President Kennedy and Mr. Clooney are well known in part because of their personal style. When I assembled this list though, I specifically sought out individuals from a variety of fields, points in time, and fame.

For this next round, I turn to a childhood hero and brilliant restaurateur. Neither is particularly well known for their wardrobes. The first is perhaps best known for a total lack of sartorial élan while the second is seen primarily in chef whites. Custom tailored for certain, but still just chef whites.

Albert Einstein

Yes. I said Albert Einstein. Why, you might ask; I mean he was not exactly known for his sartorial elegance. And that’s exactly why I put him on this list. He is the smart man’s anti-dandy. At least that is how he chose to have the world view him.

While his signature absentminded professor look became synonymous with brilliance unconcerned with the banalities of style, many close to Einstein tell of a man quite aware of his look’s impact. While no one would claim him to be overly interested in fashion, Einstein was very conscious with his public persona; using the rumpled suit and out-of-control hair to his own ends.

Einstein was quite deliberate with his dress, in part because it worked to his advantage. It was in fact a disarming tool, a shield that deflected expectations. It was also who he was as a person. Albert Einstein was in a sense the Bill Gates of his day; brilliant but sartorially challenged – or challenging, depends on your view.

In so many ways Einstein was his own man, and I think that is what always impressed me the most. Rising from patent clerk to heights of international acclaim, he never really changed who he was. Sure, for white tie ceremonies he would don white tie, but he never tried to be someone else. The hair still popped out at odd angles and the dress clothes had a slightly rumpled something about them. He was always just Albert; brilliant yes, but just Albert.

That is what I always admired about Albert Einstein; not just the mind bending intellect but the totally individual personality of which he was never ashamed. If he was cold, he put on a cardigan. End of story.

Thomas Keller

I actually had a little internal debate about listing Mr. Keller. I had trouble choosing between him and another exceptional chef and showman, Chicago’s Charlie Trotter. Both are epicurean technicians of the highest order, but Keller won out due to his remarkable ability to maintain unimpeachable standards in outlets spread across the country.

Thomas Keller is one of the world’s top living chefs and, if things keep going the way they have, one of the best ever to live. He is quite simply that good every day of the week and other chefs speak his name with hushed tones normally reserved for higher powers. He is also equally well known for not being an arrogant snob, which in his industry is equally remarkable.

Among his many accomplishments is the evolution of California cuisine to international acclaim and almost singlehandedly turning Napa Valley into a fine dining and luxury lifestyle destination. Keller has also elevated the entire dining experience – from food storage and preparation to coffee service – to a sublime and almost reverential experience.

Thomas Keller’s obsessive dedication to perfection, be it ingredients or wait staff uniforms, has placed him and his universe of restaurants – namely The French Laundry – on a wholly unique plain.

So exacting is his staff’s culinary skills that the French Laundry’s kitchen was replicated in the virtual world for the blockbuster animated film, “Ratatouille.” The movie’s restaurant characters and their culinary skills were all based on meticulous recreations of Keller’s chefs. It is no small honor that the movie was wildly successful in France – viewed as a loving dedication to the true wonders of gastronomy.

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One Thing: Incotex Pants

For the next item on my “One Thing” list, I’m going to the perfect complement for the aforementioned cashmere crewneck sweater – Incotex pants. Mine are a wonderful, lightweight medium grey wool pair and are by far my favorites. I purchased them in Venice about two years ago and can’t imagine not having them. When in need of grey dress pants, they are my first and often only choice.

Incotex is part of the Slowear group, an Italian company dedicated to producing exception clothes that are always in style. Everything about the company clearly shows that it finds the idea of “fashion” very unfashionable. Slowear, and its companies, make clothes that last and will always be at the front of your wardrobe.

Slowear actually began its life as Carlo Compagno Confezioni in 1951, manufacturing trousers and uniforms. In the 1970s, the company shifted gears, began focusing exclusively on pants and was renamed Incotex. Over the next several years, strategic acquisitions brought into the fold coat company Motedoro, wool producer Maglifico Zanone, and luxury shirt maker Glanshirt. Earlier this year, the umbrella company was renamed Slowear.

Each brand within Slowear operates independently but now benefits from a unified parent brand and a common operations platform. Nonetheless, the main focus of each unit is to carefully design and produce clothes that exist far above and beyond those churned out by name brand designers season after season. Though located in the city, Slowear even located its offices far from the hubbub of Milan’s fashion district.

Incotex in particular is the master of precision cut trousers. They are exceptional in both quality and construction. I would go so far as to say I have never owned a pair of pants that were so instantly comfortable yet incredibly stylish. They were by no means inexpensive and it’s safe to say that my being on vacation was part of the “oh, what the heck” attitude that led to the purchase. But I am so very glad I did get them. If forced to single out only one article of clothing in my wardrobe to take on a yearlong trip, it would be these pants. No contest.

My Incotex trousers will be with me for a long time. I hope that you take a little of you time and learn about the brand and about Slowear as well. The company’s philosophy is inspiring and that they put it into action every day, with each of their brands, makes me very happy to have supported them.

For an excellent story on Slowear, pick up the November issue of Monocle.

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Icons of Timeless Style – Part I: JFK, George Clooney

With terms like “style” and “fashion” being attributed to every moderately talented celebrity with a pretty face, I recently sat down and considered who I consider to be true style icons. Not the fleeting hotshots for me; no, I am talking about men of substance who have endured the test of time as well as those who clearly will.

When I think of those people to whom I look to for inspiration, I demand far more than flash. I want substance, meaning, thoughtfulness, intellect, and individuality. Over the next few columns I will share with you my own list of style icons and tell you why I find them inspiring and worth emulating. My list includes politicians, literary giants, actors, royalty and industry moguls. Each one of them represents the true mix of style and substance.

JFK

John Fitzgerald Kennedy was a charming, magnetic and very intelligent leader. He was a breath of fresh air to a country facing uncertain times. He also happened to be married to Jacqueline Bovier; still considered to be the archetype of a modern First Lady.

The Kennedys were an iconic couple that still embodies the American political ideal: power, money, charm, history, class, and at least the appearance of approachability. To this day, Jack and Jackie are the closest thing to royalty the United States has ever produced. President Kennedy died young of course, but that has forever secured his legacy of a shining icon taken too soon. Enormous potential left unfulfilled.

He had a classic, timeless style about him – some might say it was the kind only money could buy – but he and his family brought elegance and graciousness to the White House. He was also a strong leader, author, Pulitzer Prize winner, and brilliant politician. Kennedy’s personal style is also enduring. It has been said that when he took the oath of office bare headed, the first president to do so, it was the death knell of the hat industry. He brought the Ivy League look to the global stage and made the sack suit the international sartorial symbol of America.

Comfortable in both white tie and tails or khakis and an old sweater, he was informally stylish and at the same time elegantly disarming. Republican or Democrat, all presidential hopefuls secretly compare themselves to JFK. That is his enduring power.

George Clooney

Yes, he is an actor; but George Clooney has moved beyond mere acting and playing the playboy. Clooney is an artistic and idealistic force that reaches far beyond Hollywood. He is also very much the playboy – tough life.

An amalgam of Cary Grant, JFK, and Orson Welles, Clooney has created a distinct persona that is unique in today’s celebrity culture: a socially conscious, intellectual sex symbol. He is also one of the few actors who can truly be called classic. It’s very easy to imagine him working with someone like Gary Cooper or Humphrey Bogart.

The son of a reporter, George Clooney is articulate, inquisitive and intelligent. Politically active and astute, it’s also easy to see him running for office. That alone places him in a different league from other celebrities with a “cause.” A liberal, he happily picks fights with conservative pundits – and often wins. A powerful producer and director, he also picks projects with a message; sometimes veiled, like “Three Kings,” and other times very, very clear, like the Academy Award winning “Good Night and Good Luck.”

Clooney’s own fashion sense is an integral part of his timeless look, so much so that he was chosen to grace the inaugural cover of Men’s Vogue. Clooney is constantly compared to Cary Grant and his affinity for classic, simple outfits in monochromatic pallets is a direct homage to Grant’s enduring image. George can wear a black turtleneck and polo coat like no one else.

Clooney also has an approachability that is very un-celebrity. I can attest to this from firsthand experience. Meeting George Clooney on a D.C. street a few years ago, I found him to be a very nice guy. He had no handler, no entourage and seemed genuinely happy to take pictures with people and sign a few autographs. He was a real gentleman without pretense. The very next day I saw him on TV at a global hunger conference.

Both of these men epitomize timeless style backed up by real substance. One was violently taken away from us. Yet in that moment of loss the world gained, for lack of a better term, a legend. Jack Kennedy will forever be asking us what we can do for our country. He will inspire generations to come with both his style and his deeds.

The other man inspires us today in a different manner. Not static in history, George Clooney is very much alive and still creating his future legacy. Just as he challenges his audiences with landmark projects like the gutsy, live telecast of “Catch 22,” he challenges his peers to back up their platitudes about global warming, education and the scourge of AIDS with substance and action.

To me, these two men are definitely worth admiring.

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One Thing: Cashmere Crewneck Sweater

As the holiday season ratchets into full swing, my wife usually asks for my wish list. We both understand that in my case this particular list is really more of a lifetime To-Do list than a “what I want for Christmas this year” list. I have things on there like “Rolex Submariner” and “Interview Ralph Lauren for the blog”; not exactly presents to whip together in a few weeks. There are however several items that I see as luxuries within reason.

This led me to come up with a list of items that I think every man should have. Some are more extravagant than others, but each is classic and useful. I will be profiling each item over the next few weeks. For my first “One Thing” I chose the cashmere crewneck sweater.

The crewneck sweater (jumpers) is a classic staple of men’s wardrobes everywhere. They can work with almost any outfit and be easily paired with jeans or grey flannels. A good crewneck should have a lightly fitted body and trim arms, but not too tight. The hem of the sweater should sit at your waist with room to allow for sitting, stretching etc., but should not blouse over the ribbed bottom. This is always an unattractive sight and gives the impression that you are either carrying a week’s worth of extra lunches around your waist or you borrowed someone else’s sweater. Neither impression is a good one.

It should fit comfortably over an oxford shirt yet still allow for easy movement while still maintaining a close fit. I like my sweater’s arms to either run a touch long so that I can turn back a good amount of cuff or end right at the wrist and allow some shirt sleeve to show. Anything in between tends to look out of proportion.

The neck is an area that merits additional attention. Some makers have neck lines that appear designed to strangle anyone foolish enough to try and stick through their head, while others seem to feel that wide gaping holes are somehow attractive. The ideal is a neck that allows the collar of your shirt to sit comfortably within, while the sweater itself offers a clean, firm neck hole that won’t easily lose its shape. I guess the best way to put it is that when viewed from any angle, your head should not appear constrained.

Regarding fabrics, merino is an excellent material but cashmere is really the gold standard. One or two-ply is more than enough for the average office dweller. Three-ply cashmere sweaters are often hawked this time of year, but don’t fall for it. Pictures of handsome people frolicking in chilly New England autumns do you no good while you are sweating up a storm in your climate controlled office building – every day.

When it comes to looks, there are several different styles of crewnecks; from simple to elaborate. After mulling this over for literally a decade, I have concluded that there are only two really useful styles: flat knit and cabled in solid colors.

A few years ago, during an after-Christmas sale, I came across this beautiful, chunky, heavy lamb’s wool Irish fisherman style sweater. It was a steal, and I bought it. I quickly realized that I couldn’t wear the thing anywhere except outside on a cold day. It weighed a ton and trapped too much heat. The upshot? Unless you actually are an Irish fisherman or work outside, give this heavy work style sweater a pass.

A thinner cabled sweater is a much better choice and simply more usable. You can find them in every color under the sun; from preppy primaries to English heathers. The same goes for flat knit sweaters. They are incredibly versatile and mix well with different materials. Flat knits in particular are good to have around because they can act as a grownup sweatshirt and adapt well to layering.

So there you have my first “One Thing” recommendation. Stay tuned for more.

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