My Style Influence

In a discussion not too long ago, someone asked me who has had the most significant style influence in my life. Though I assumed that an actor, designer or even a politician would be the winner, what almost immediately popped into my head was a little surprising. Since most people’s personality tends to be the sum of life events as well as genetics, I thought you might find a story that combines both a little interesting. If nothing else, I’d like to think of this as a brief testament to finding true class right at home.

Though not my initial thought, it quickly became obvious that the most powerful influence on my personal style has been my father. While I have had many influences over the years, from magazines and movies to working in a couple of Ralph Lauren stores; my core view of what defines “style” is firmly grounded in him.

As is often the case with children, I never really appreciated as a boy his wonderfully classic sense of taste and respect for quality. It only hit me after I had grown up and moved on with my life. Though he himself would eventually grow up to live a decidedly preppy handbook kind of life, he was by no means born to it. A keen application of hard work and long hours in the library eventually led to a New England prep school and then an Ivy League college. The result is a man who, though having very traditional taste and an appreciation for the classics, is without pretense. He has never forgotten his roots.

As to his personal style, my dad’s version of a sweatshirt and jeans are khakis and a corduroy sport coat. It is simply what he grew up with; as he once told me, “I’ve worn a jacket every day since grade school, I had to.” As a result, he has always managed to look completely comfortable in such attire without being the least bit stuffy or off-putting. This is a real accomplishment as, literally, he has never actually owned a pair of jeans. To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy which is very important because he is also doctor.

One particular memory of my father will always stick with me because it showed how clothing can so define the inner qualities of a man. I was with a friend who worked at our local hospital and we stopped by the emergency room so he could drop something off. While I stood in a corner, watching the commotion and trying to stay out of the way, I saw my dad come around the corner. As it so happened, he looked great; seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty, actually. He didn’t see me.

What happened next will forever stay in my heart and mind. He walked over to an elderly man lying on a gurney parked along the wall. Very gently, he leaned over and began to talk with the gentleman. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my father’s patient relax. At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help his patient. I then recalled something he had once said about always dressing well to make his rounds at the hospital: it wasn’t for his benefit; rather it was a sign of respect to his patients. He paid attention to how he dressed because his patients deserved at least that.

In that moment, the style on the outside very much matched the man on the inside. It’s easy to dress well, but that’s not the same thing as having class. More than any magazine or movie star, that image will always be my definition of true style.

Moleskine Notebooks

As someone who is constantly taking notes, sketching out ideas and regularly trying to sound witty and knowledgeable on such elusive topics as cashmere v. merino cardigans, I pay attention to notebooks. Like any other personal accessory, a notebook says as much about you as your shirt or watch. Do you grab an anonymous spiral bound book from the office supply cabinet, or do you spend weeks searching for just the right exotic handmade Florentine creation bound in leather with marbled pages? Me, I fall in between, and my personal favorite is Moleskine.

While I admit that I have a weak spot for nice blank books and handmade papers, I really love the elegant simplicity of Moleskine journals. These subversive little black books with the elastic band almost beg to be written in. While an admittedly elegant lambskin journal from Smythson will cost you $250, for under $20, you can get a large format Moleskine in your choice paper style (plain, lined or grid). There is even a handy expanding pocket in the back.

The pocket sized journals have become iconic and are instantly recognizable. Where some journals look like they belong in a museum, eliciting actual panic at the thought of actually writing down a mere “to do” list within those hand tooled covers, Moleksines encourage you to jot down your daily musings.

The Italian company that now owns Moleskine, Modo & Modo, recently expanded their product line to include a variety of elegantly simple diaries – one sits in front of me as I type. Thay also have a line of cahiers; thinner, lightweight versions of the traditional Moleskine journals that are perfect for slipping into a shirt pocket or leather folio on the way to a meeting.

The latest and most exciting edition to the lineup are the newly launched city journals. On the outside they have the traditional Moleskine black cover, but inside are filled with a combination of maps, city guides, and tabbed sections for listing such vitals as restaurants and stores, and room for travel notes. It is a great tool for travelers, perfect for keeping track of stores, restaurants and local events. City journals cover multiple locals including Paris, London, Seattle, Washington, D.C., New York and Rome. Each book has the city name discretely embossed on the spine.

Moleskine has an enormous cult following across the web and one of the best sites is the blog Moleskinerie.com. Also stop by MoleskineCity.com, an amazing blog dedicated to travel and urban exploration in all its forms. Of course, make sure to check out Moleskine.com, the official company website; it is a cool and informative resource for all things Moleskine.

Classic Style is Always Green

A few months ago, an interesting article appeared in the International Herald Tribune about how employees at Eni, Italy’s largest power company, agreed to shed their ties and cut back on air conditioning in an effort to help fight global warming. The company’s Rome and Milan offices began a tentative experiment in what it called, “lighter and cooler office attire.” It was by all accounts a success, though employees made it very clear that expected to return to proper clothing as the weather cooled into autumn.

Italians ditching their ties, are you kidding? Those often fantastic, large-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for an entire summer? Well, if nothing else, you can bet the loss of a mere tie did not send office standards into a sartorial tailspin as it has in too many offices across America. Tie or no tie, Italians have standards.

This article, though remarkable from a cultural perspective, is actually an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. In fact, it is a great teaching moment that focusing on style actually does help the environment – as it should.

Put simply, when you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made, I mean a purchase that is also well thought out. By actually considering what you buy and editing your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that will just wind up in a landfill by the end of the year.  Everyday clothing is now relatively cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of sourcing, manufacturing, packaging, transporting, storing, selling, and eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.

As opposed to Americans, Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage space, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.

Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are all factors you should consider when making any purchase.

Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that you will just throw out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While more expensive than off-the-rack, a well made custom suit will last for years. A classic cut can transcend fashion and a good tailor can make adjustments as your dimensions change over time.

By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste and duplication. Which brings me back to the Italians; I have no fear of track pants and tee shirts showing up in Roman offices or flip flops in Milan. If anyone can assemble a stylish and absolutely classy “casual” work wardrobe for any weather, it is an Italian.

Keys to the Kingdom: Key Chains

Keys are one of the few universal items that pretty much everyone has to deal with at some point. We may have electronic keycards in the office, but to drive a car, get into the house, access the family safe deposit box, or unlock a gym locker you still need a plain old key. Holding on to those keys is another universal headache that regardless of culture or politics, demands the ubiquitous key ring or keychain.

This topic actually came up as reader comment in response to one of my first Men’s Flair articles on accessories. I had not included key chains and the reader asked if they would be affected by fashion cycles just like other accessories. Good question. Though belated, here are my thoughts on key chains.

In my opinion, key chains are not particularly influenced by fashion cycles; however, I would say that they are affected by broader social and design trends. For example, the key cases which were popular for decades appear to have all but vanished from the market. I can’t recall the last time I laid eyes on one. The key chain itself however – the functional object - remains.

Generally, I would say that men tend to favor key chains that are simple but also reflect a little personality. In the States, classics like the braided leather loop and preppy “tie” versions are always pretty popular. The latter has a fob shaped like a loop of summer belting; the kind with signal flags that spell out “Martha’s Vineyard,” or whatnot. Like any other personal object, a key chain says something about the keys owner. In this case, it implies a sunny, sandy and privileged lifestyle. And why not? Whenever I see a naked key ring, no fob or other unique moniker that says, “start here,” I feel a bit sad. Keys themselves are anonymous, key rings should not be.

I think the key - pun intended - is to have something neither ostentatious nor pedestrian. For the captains of industry, Tiffany & Co. is the master of simple elegance. Ralph Lauren has some wonderful key chains that speak to the easy landed gentry’s lifestyle: lots of leather and brass. Key chains can be found that reflect personal interests too: mountain climbing carabineers, miniature ship lanterns, and even tiny golf clubs.

For the aspirational among us, it is easy to get a hold of BMW, Mercedes, or Ferrari logoed versions. Even brands supposedly above such crass commercialism like Rolls Royce let you buy a piece of the myth. Of course, if you’re using it to impress a certain someone, you still need to come up with the matching car at some point.

Flat Front Khakis to the Rescue

Unless you have to wear a suit every day, khaki pants are probably the real backbone of your work wardrobe. From formally tailored to comfortably slouchy, they go with almost anything, can be dressed up or down, and travel well. Choosing the right pair at the right time is important, or you’ll quickly wind up looking like a chain restaurant waiter.

You’re all grown up now and you need some grown up khakis too. Generally speaking, “khakis” encompass a broad range of pants that fall into a category that traces it’s lineage to military trousers from the 1940s. American soldiers brought home these beloved and functional pants and crated a trend that culminated in the classic “Ivy League” look.

Your own goal with these endlessly versatile pants should be to look dressed up but still comfortably relaxed. Make sure they are reasonably trim and stay away from pleats. While they are starting to make a comeback for suit pants, the heavier cotton fabric of most khakis will cause the pleats bulge out and visually add weight and bulk to your midsection.

Flat front khakis will give you a leaner silhouette and also tend to look dressier. You should look for a mid rise (meaning the crotch doesn’t hang down by your knees) and a natural waist (meaning the pants sit on your natural hips). Choose a classic strait leg and allow for a nice break that can work with heavy oxfords or casual boat shoes.  For a cleaner, modern look, tailor the pants without a break – just make sure you’ll always want that style, because there is no going back.

In many ways, khakis are the all-purpose chameleons of your daily wardrobe. They can impart both the rumpled comfort of puttering around the library in search of that elusive book on how to grow, say, marigolds and the freshly pressed crispness of heading off to the office on a brisk fall day, tweed jacket in tow.

While you typically want to keep to the classic fit described above, it makes sense to have both tailored and less constructed versions in the closet. Seasonality plays a role as well; lighter weight 5.6 ounce fabric should rule the warm months just as classic 8.5 ounce pants should be pulled out for the fall and winter.

Khakis are one of the few clothing categories where I condone the “more is better” philosophy. Try to round out your wardrobe with different shades as well as styles; from light putty to deep British tan. Olive is a useful color as well. For the adventurous types who really love the classics, get yourself a pair of Nantucket Reds. While many brands may copy them, Murray’s Toggery Shop on the island itself is the original source.

While I generally don’t recommend specific brands, for the true American chino you have to check out what GQ magazine has called the “pants of the gods” - Bill’s Khakis. Go for the M2 model, around US $98. These pants are directly modeled after vintage World War II GI khakis and are built like Sherman tanks. They are about as authentic as you can get.