Sporting a Vest

Vests are back this season and I for one am very happy. About 12 years ago, I bought a wonderful waistcoat in Dublin. It was a classic Irish country tweed; colorful but not overdone, elegant but not at all dandified. I loved it then and love it now. Vests have a particularly special relationship with their owners. Cut close to the body and one of the more expressive of garments, they are certainly well known but not entirely understood. Relegated in the mind’s eye to restaurant waiters and country farmers on BBC television shows, most people not sure what to do them and are secretly intimidated by the vest.

In reality, they are an excellent alternative for those times when you want an extra layer of clothing but a sweater is a bit too much. As I just noted, vests are also a great way to show your individual style. For some guys, a vest takes some guts to wear, but don’t be afraid to stand out and get noticed. They give you a vintage look and most have pockets for loose change or keys.

Add a pocket watch for that extra sharp look. If you actually have a family watch, that’s wonderful; if not, go out and buy a nice vintage one and start your own family tradition. Regardless, make sure it actually works because people will go out of their way to ask you the time. Vests have that effect.

Vests, of course, come in different shapes and sizes. From casual sweater vests to three piece suit orphans, there is something for every occasion. According to a recent Wall Street Journal story, more men are investigating three piece suits; last seen on the fashion radar somewhere in the 1980s. These days, the three piece suit is a far cry from that unappealing, boxy contraption. Today’s version is more in line with the Golden Era of the 1930s and ‘40s, when men made a point of choosing clothing that celebrated rather than concealed individual personality. In fact, it is now not uncommon for a tailor’s client to request additional festive or contrasting vests to fit certain occasions or to be worn separately.

As with any piece of clothing – though more so with vests – fit matters. In this case it means your vest should lie close to the body but not constrict movement like sitting and bending. It should also fit in the chest; no gaps around the arm holes and the front of the vest should completely cover your shirt and lay just over the waistband of your trousers. This last rule is open to a little interpretation as the “shrunken suit” trend applies to vests as well. If you are in especially good shape, you can get away with your vest ending well above the pant line, providing a particularly vintage look.

When it comes to buttons of course, the bottom one is always undone. We all know the story about that, right?

Fall Style Staple: V-Neck Sweaters

Now that cooler weather has finally moved into the northern hemisphere, it’s time to break out the warm weather clothes. One of the most versatile pieces of clothing that should be in your fall wardrobe is a fine gauge v-neck sweater, a.k.a. jumper. Just like having a pair of classic dark washed jeans that can take you from office casual to drinks at the Ritz, a classic v-neck sweater will cover a lot of bases without overdoing it.

Now, I’m not talking about a chunky ski sweater or that shapeless holdover used for yard work. This sweater should be considered the equivalent of dress clothing. You want something that is lightweight, lightly fitted, and soft. Cashmere is the best choice of course, but depending on quality and brand name, it can be very expensive. A personal note: don’t bother with double and triple thick cashmere unless you are spending lots of time outdoors in the cold at fancy events where you can brag about how much your sweater costs. Most of us are wearing these indoors at work or home and the extra thickness will only make you extra warm. As an alternative to cashmere, merino wool is an excellent fabric. Look for tightly knit fabric that is soft to the touch and a comfortable fit.

Stick with solids at first – grey, brown, navy blue, and black. Once you have the basics in place, add an argyle for that college professor look. Indeed, this season there is a fair amount of variety when it comes to knits and texture and you can add some flair to your wardrobe with cables, heathers, and rough-weaves. Crew necks, sweater vests, and cardigans are all in this season as well, so make sure to check out all of your options.

The v-neck sweater is a timeless piece that, when chosen carefully, can be happily used for years. Several seasons back a deeper “v” was favored, while these days a higher neck line is preferred. Generally speaking, I like the “v” to fall about two inches (roughly 5 cm) from the neck line as it provides room for a shirt collar to spread out while at the same time still containing it.

Wear it over a tee shirt with those dressy jeans and you’re pulling off George Clooney-like cool. For a classic preppy look, throw it over an oxford and head off to a lunch meeting. If you are having dinner at a nice place but a jacket is still too formal, reach for your v-neck as the perfect compromise. Regardless, you’re good to go with this classically flexible layer.

Defending a Man’s Bag

As student of history, I am often fascinated about how things seem to cycle in and out of favor over the years, decades, sometimes even centuries. Men have always been on the move, be it hunting, exploring, or – in a less glamorous modern vein – commuting. Look at old painting and drawing; a man always seemed to have his bag. Tied to a belt, hanging from a horse’s saddle, or slung over a shoulder; it was always there. Somewhere along the way however, the perception of a man’s bag shifted from manly explorer to effete dandy. Well, finally common sense appears to be re-emerging on the issue.

Growing up, my hero was Indiana Jones, the globetrotting archeologist. He had a bag. It made sense of course; where else would all that stuff go? It was beat up and worn out but held in there one adventure after another, filled with golden statues and grail diaries. The message was clear: a man with a bag has things to do.

As I grew up, my needs and sense of style changed. What stayed the same was the belief that, like Indy, guys with bags are cool. Years ago, when I first went to Europe and saw men walking around with great leather bags confidently thrown over a shoulder, I felt vindicated. Still, it took years for a man’s day-to-day bag to become a relatively common site in the US.

I recently surveyed a few guys, asking what they carried around on an average day. This was the average answer: wallet, phone, sunglasses, blackberry, keys, change, checkbook, day planner/notebook, newspaper, and sometimes a laptop. Some had real briefcases, which only look right when you’re going to work, and some had backpacks, which only look right when you’re in college.

The truth is men have a lot of things to lug around these days and they need a good bag; all of that stuff won’t fit in your pockets. I’m kind of an evangelist about this; there is no shame in having a cool bag to haul around all the things we need to get through the day.

You want to find at least one that looks right on you and matches what you’re doing. For all purpose needs, I’m a big fan of Jack Spade bags. The company’s founder, Andy Spade, is the husband of women’s bag maker, Kate Spade. After you’ve got your key bag, it’s time to expand your wardrobe.

If you want to go upscale and get something that will look at home in the boardroom, check out Ghurka or Mulberry. If function rather than form is your goal, true messenger bags are perfect. Two of the companies that literally created the market, Timbuk2 and Manhattan Portage, have bags in every shape, size, and color.

The Odd Jacket

So, you ask; what is an “odd Jacket?” It’s really just a clever term for any sport coat, blazer, or other jacket that is not part of a suit. The odd jacket, long a versatile weapon in many a man’s wardrobe arsenal, has finally come into its own on the fashion front. In catalogs and stores blue blazers, tweed hacking jackets, corduroy sport coats, and linen jackets abound.

I have always been a bit of a sucker for jackets. To me, they add that extra bit of personality that cannot otherwise be attained; like the Ivy League college professor strolling across campus, leather case in hand and wearing a slightly battered Harris Tweed jacket. I actually saw that once at Harvard (no, I didn’t actually go there). It was like a scene out of a movie. Without the jacket however, his overall look would have suffered – it just wouldn’t have been the same.

Odd jackets can help you finish off your look in several ways. As we now move into autumn, we also move into odd jacket weather. Depending on your mood and what sartorial message you are trying to convey, they can dress you up or down, polished or scruffy.

Classic Preppy
When looking to create a studied prepster look, a la Ralph Lauren, focus on the layering. You don’t want too much going on, just enough to generate a textured history: grey tee shirt under a checked oxford, under a light sweater vest, surmounted by a chunky olive cord blazer. Details matter with this kind of look, so finish it off with slightly worn khakis, tartan ribbon belt, and vintage watch. Heavier brogues or classic loafers round out the outfit. Earthy tones should drive this fall look.

Urban Cool
For a refined city look that speaks of dressed down formal, think about a more finished jacket; maybe the coat from your favorite suit. Stores like H+M that sell affordable suit separates, are a great resource for this kind of look. Take your finely tailored jacket and pair it with a good dress shirt and modern, dressy jeans. Shirts with spread collars are best as they don’t look like you forgot your tie. The goal is to create a balanced presentation between the casualness of the jeans and formality of the jacket.

Classic Dress
If you are looking for an office appropriate outfit that falls somewhere between a suit’s full-on formality and khaki’s casual attitude, the classic combination of a sport coat and trousers is always right. Contrast is key, so grey flannels and a chocolate brown cashmere sport coat paired with a lightly checked shirt would fit the bill.

However you want to wear your jacket, be comfortable but also be aware of scale. Match finer weight trousers to finer weight jackets; heavy cords and tweed jackets. Just play around and enjoy the versatility that the odd jacket offers your wardrobe.

Caring For Your Clothes

Investing in a well-tailored and high quality wardrobe can be an exciting and rewarding experience. It can also make a big difference in your outlook on life and on yourself. Keeping that investment in great shape takes a little work but that effort will keep your clothes in runway shape for a long time.

While it does take some effort on your part, you’ll probably become one of those people that others point to and say, “wow, how does he always look so good?” Part of my interest in wardrobe maintenance is probably genetic. I’m a New Englander and our obsession with using stuff until it literally falls apart in your hands is well-documented.

New Englanders virtually invented the idea of “old money” and popularized the idea of cherishing clothes and heirlooms that, while showing wear and tear, still have a certain timeless appeal. Though the natural aging of fabric and leather and wearing down of cuffs and elbows are normal, it should be held off as long as possible.  Doing so allows your possessions to develop character and will help keep them around for years to come.

Here are a few basics that will help your cherished clothes last longer while still looking great.

Hang it up: Make an effort to keep your clothes clean and well-maintained. An easy and basic part of this something called the hanger; just use it. When you get home after a long day at work, change right away and hang up your clothes. Use wood hangers, untreated cedar are a good choice. Don’t crowd your closet. Garments need to breath and should have space to air out. Most wrinkles will work themselves out in between wearings.

More brushing, less dry cleaning: Most suits and sport coats only need to be dry cleaned about once a year. Delicate fabrics and linens may need more attention, but on the whole regularly brushing your garments with a clothing brush will remove most dust and dirt. Spot cleaning can address many minor stains and help avoid unnecessary trips to the cleaners. If your suit is looking a little too lived in, go ahead and take it there, but only for a press. That will freshen it up without the damage of dry cleaning chemicals.

Shoe trees:  In addition to protecting your dress shoes’ leather by keeping them polished, make sure to always use shoe trees. There are many models, but the best are full-sized and made from untreated cedar. The shoe tree will absorb moisture and help maintain your shoe’s shape. Varnished trees are fine as well, in fact I’m always on the lookout for the kind you’re likely to find in Ralph Lauren’s closet.

Don’t wear the same pair of shoes day after day; they need to rest and dry out. At the end of the day, give your shoes a quick brush down, insert trees, and give them a few days off.  Should you get stuck in a rainstorm or have to tramp through snow, do not try to dry out your shoes quickly; it can permanently damage your fine footwear. Stuff them with newspaper, set them in a room temperature place and leave them alone. Change the paper if it gets damp but don’t rush the process. Also, make sure to brush off road salts or dirt immediately.

Launder with care: When it comes to laundering your shirts at home, cold water is usually better. Iron on slightly cooler settings and lay off the starch. If you need to use it, starch only the cuffs, collars, and plackets; those areas that can get a little unruly. If you regularly send your shirts off to the cleaners, pass on the starch there as well. Commercial presses do a fine job of working out the wrinkles with extra chemicals.