Bedside Reading: The Official Filthy Rich Handbook

It would appear that I’ve finally made it to the big leagues of blogdom.  Workman Publishing recently contacted me to ask that I review The Official Filthy Rich Handbook, by Christopher Tennet. This pretender to The Official Preppy Handbook throne has been making the reviewer’s rounds and I have secretly hoped to be among the chosen few to peer critically though this (satirical?) homage to the world of the super-rich and super-vain.

For starters, it’s hilarious and very well written.  It looks like a handbook and looks quite at home next to my dog eared copy of The Official Preppy Handbook.  One of the enduring charms of the OPH is the fine line it treads between satire and real-world guide.  If you so chose, you could very well live your life according to the TOPH.  The same can be said of The Official Filthy Rich Handbook – assuming you have several hundred million dollars.  Make that a billion.

The book is romp through the many aspects of living the life of the super rich; from where to live to the nuances of owning your own Boeing 767.  Where to vacation (Ibiza and Formentera), how many polo ponies should you own (at least eight), and which hangers on are most important to have in your retinue (therapist and life coach top that list.  The insightful commentary is clever and witty as it is biting.

While not a realistic guide, per se – if you can afford to do half of what’s discussed inside the last thing I suspect you’d be doing is reading this book – it offers a wonderful primer on living well and what, exactly, constitutes “well.”  To wit, the chapter “Buying a Better You” covers the ridiculous, a clip-and-save Non Disclosure Agreement for your staff; and the truly interesting, which once Blue Chip luxury names are now too pedestrian (think Burberry and Tiffany & Co.).

A la Preppy Handbook, there is a tongue-in-cheek schematic of the typical billionaire closet on which one might wish to model their own.  From the rack of Kiton “K-50” custom suits which start at about $50,000 each, to the custom stingray John Lobb lace ups, it is a tour de force in over the top branding.  Caring for one’s clothing is also touched upon: drop everything on the floor.  The domestic help will eventually pick it up and put it where it needs to be..

The sections on heirs and child-rearing are a hoot and it is here that the book is closest to its Official Preppy Handbook muse.  Updating readers on the proper prep schools and which colleges are acceptable back-ups for your less than brilliant offspring.

All in all, The Filthy Rich Handbook is a worthy and guffaw-inducing successor to that paragon of parody, The Official Preppy Handbook.  Buy up some extras and give them to your household staff for Christmas.

Leave a Comment

The Allure of Sterling Silver Accessories

Gold may be having its heyday in the markets right now, but silver still holds an unmistakable sway over man. The English are renowned for their penchant of silver collecting and companies like Tiffany have built their reputations on it. Silver, sterling silver in particular – which is nice parts silver to one part copper – has a personality and warmth that is difficult to deny.

The scratches and nicks which over time come to define silver objects tell their own story; the patina softens and takes on a unique personality. This trait makes sterling silver an excellent material for special and cherished items. Unlike gold which can seem ostentatious and showy, silver is approachable and more relaxed, perfect for the treasured accessories in your life.

Because I like to travel light whenever possible, a money clip or pen knife is about all I want in my pants pocket. Such personal objects should never be disposable; they are with us each day and become talismans that grow in value beyond currency. Rather than shove spare cash into your pocket or toss any old pen into your bag, why not consider investing in one or two elegant little treasures that have meaning?

For those loose bills, opt for a sterling money clip; add a monogram and make it an heirloom. Yard-O-Lead makes some wonderful sterling silver pens that will stand out from the conference table crowd – the Viceroy is a favorite model of mine.

Sterling cufflinks are an obvious option. Silver knots or classic monogrammed ovals are always in style. Another wonderful use of sterling is the classic monogrammed engine turned belt buckle. Paired with an alligator strap, there is nothing quite as elegant.  For smokers, or merely those wish to be prepared for a chivalrous flourish, a silver Dunhill lighter is indispensible.

Other individualistic options include the silver tie bar, once an obligatory sartorial tool and now enjoying a resurgence of sorts. And, as long as you don’t let it look like a building superintendent’s, a simple silver key chain makes a functional utensil a little more stylish.

A silver card case can be quite sharp and I’ve seen a few people use vintage cigarette cases to hold their business or calling cards. Match the case to your own personality and tastes – either very elaborate or simple in design.

Silver, I know, is not everyone’s cup of tea. To my mind, there are silver people and there are gold people. Usually, it’s fairly easy to figure out who is who; for example, I am a silver person. Apart from a general love of sterling, when it comes to personal accessories, I naturally lean toward silver and stainless steel.

Most of my watches are stainless steel and my wedding band is platinum. Through frameless, the small amount of metal on my glasses is silver colored. I just prefer silver more than gold – the one exception being my signet ring. Bearing my family’s crest, it is my one regular gold accessory.

It’s not like I’d turn down some gold cufflinks or a vintage gold Seamaster, but as a general rule, I find it too showy and formal for my taste. I have inherited a number of lovely gold items – cufflinks and notably a wonderful pocketknife that once belonged to my great grandfather. They are special to me because of their personal connection, but when I look to my current wish list, sterling silver is still where my heart’s at.

Leave a Comment

Notes From Las Vegas

I like Las Vegas, not enough to live there but enough to look forward to the five-hour flight from D.C. It’s a remarkable city that draws designers, retailers, craftsmen and brands from around the world. On my most recent business trip to Vegas I was able to carve out a little spare time to explore Sin City’s more acceptable vice: shopping.

While gambling - or gaming in the industry’s parlance - is the mother’s milk of Las Vegas, the city’s retail offerings rival most of the world’s A-list venues. Think of a brand and it more than likely has a presence in Vegas. And not only that, the city’s retail footprints are often large and glitzy. Like everything else in Las Vegas, bigger is better and flash always wins over subtlety.

As a consumer-dedicated destination city, you will see cheek by jowl companies that you did not even know had a store and familiar mass market luxury names – Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, Cartier and Rolex to name only a tiny fraction. Some firms use their Vegas presence to create a new version of themselves, capitalizing on the town’s penchant for bigger and glitzier. I found an excellent expression of this philosophy in the Forum Shops at Caesars.

The Tourneau Time Dome is the venerable New York company’s Las Vegas Outlet. It’s Tourneau’s largest store; 35 custom-built brand shops-within-a-shop are spread across two-stories. From Swiss Army to Rolex to Breguet, more than 8,000 timepieces from 100 watchmakers are on display. Unsurprisingly, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, the 17,500-square-foot space is the world’s largest watch store. If you are a watch person, you must visit this temple to luxury timekeeping.

And while you might expect to more fashion forward retailers in this other city that never sleeps, in the Forum Shops I encountered one of the nicest Brooks Brothers stores I’ve seen in quite a while. Large, well stocked and with a pleasant and knowledgeable sales staff, I’d go back in a minute.

Since I also have a thing for good pens and leather goods, I checked out the Mont Blanc store. I’ve never been too keen on their watches – I’m often like that with companies that aren’t really in the watch business; they are a pen company that moved into watches. I spent some time chatting with John Castiglione about the company’s plans to produce its own watch movements. With ETA close to ending its sales to non-Swatch Group watchmakers, Mont Blanc is taking the vertical integration approach and bringing everything in-house. Thanks to Mr. Castiglione, I have a better appreciation of Mont Blanc’s dedication to its watches. Maybe I do like the Timewalker after all.

Over at Belagio, Hermes is regular stop for me. It’s not the largest store, but it always has a wonderful selection of the company’s exceptionally crafted goods. The store also overlooks the Casino’s famous fountains. When I go out in Las Vegas, I always make a point of dressing up a bit. The place is choc a block with flip-flop wearing tourists; instead, I try to be the stylish traveler. There’s a big difference. Think “Ocean’s 11” – either version, though the newer one is to me the epitome of casually elegant modern style. As you wander through the swanky shopping arcades, aspire to be someone worth looking at. And in a place like Las Vegas, making the extra effort is extra fun.

If you really want to feel like a real high roller head over to the Wynn and check out Wynn Penske, one of the few factory authorized Ferrari & Maserati dealerships in the country. Once you’ve picked out your new set of wheels, visit the sumptuous Brioni boutique for some new custom duds. Then make a point to stop by Graff Jewelers and pick up a little 25 caret something for the girl in your life.

Leave a Comment

The Suit and the World Stage

Over on my blog, Off The Cuff DC, I recently posted a column concerning my decidedly negative opinion of London Mayor Boris Johnson’s appearance at the closing ceremony of the Beijing Olympics. I found his ill fitting suit, untucked shirt and generally sloppy appearance both confusing and disappointing. I received a host of responses; a number of them from Londoners defending Johnson’s well known eccentric style. Normally I would be less vocal about this sort of thing - individual style and personal proclivities are what define a person’s public character. Who am I to judge?

However, I firmly believe that there are times and places when you should make the effort to be well turned out. Weddings and funerals are two good examples. Representing your city and by extension your country, at a globally televised ceremony is also one of those times. I did not suggest that the British people foot a sizeable bill for some extravagant bespoke work-up. I simply pointed out that a well fitting suit and closed jacket can do wonders for one’s image on the world stage.

The good thing is that more men are focusing on dressing well. Washington D.C., though still beset by slouchy jackets, too long trousers, and sleeves that virtually reach one’s knuckles, has a growing population of men who express an elegant sense of personal style. And for the majority of younger gentlemen taking their first tentative steps toward the world of better clothing, the suit is where it all begins.

In particular, I have noticed more young men in suits, and not just the Jos. A. Bank standby. More and more I see more modern silhouettes, nicer fabrics and more attention to detail. This makes sense because at its heart, D.C. is a suit town and if there is going to be an uptick on the style front it will start with suits. From A-List lobbyists tucking into the best table at the Palm to the ambitious college grads haunting the halls of Congress looking for the next big move, suits are an equalizer. Once can find a nice suit for a few hundred dollars or have a personalized work of hand crafted art for several thousand.

There is no shame in dressing well and looking good. Though the suit may scare some men a bit, there is nothing to fear. Regardless of cost, a suit that is properly tailored to your body will fit you, flatter you, and make you look better, not worse. A well-tailored suit will hide your flaws and even out your physical idiosyncrasies.

The Washington, D.C. fashion ethic tends to favor the “look good, but not too good” approach, but that is not the same thing as looking like a baggy slob. And therein lies my problem with Mr. Johnson. Being irreverent and eccentric is not the same thing as being sloppy. The former is clever and nuanced a wink and a nod to the establishment. The latter is just shoddy.

What are the key points to making a suit look good? First, get a properly sized suit. Too many men opt for suits that do not fit well – usually they err on the side of roominess. Don’t fall into that trap; ignore the size label and go for fit first. The suit jacket should fit closely to your body but not feel constricted. Your tailor can make quick work of the sleeve length, darting, button placement and the way the jacket lies across your shoulders. When it comes to how cuff you should show, ¼ to ½ inch is fairly standard, but it’s really a personal choice. Regardless, the goal is a visually we-balanced arm.

Your suit trousers should be hemmed. Cuffs or not, many men like their trousers to have a slight break over the shoe. This is a very personal thing; some prefer no break while others like a prominent one. This will often depend on the style of suit: modern and slim or classic and sack. Whatever you choose, make sure that when you look in the mirror you see an outfit that’s balanced.

So, take yourself and your best suit to a good tailor and experience the difference of wearing something actually fitted to your body. Be a man, show a little cuff and invest in a nice pair of shoes - Alden Medallion Tip Bals are quite nice – to highlight your newly visible feet. Once you have one good suit, one that fits well and makes you stand a little taller, you will understand why suits are the cornerstone of a good wardrobe.

Leave a Comment

The Colors of Summer

When it comes to summer dressing, most men like the idea of adding a little shot of color to their ensemble.  At the same time there is normally trepidation when it comes to modulating that extra splash of liveliness.  When does a little become too much?  How can I show some personality without looking like a caricature?

I am reminded of a fellow I saw on the street last year on a steamy summer day.  He was wearing the loudest pants I’d ever seen.  They looked remarkably like sofa cushions from a 1950s Florida vacation house; bright orange with giant palm fronds and parrots printed all over them.  These pants actually hurt my eyes.  But the guy wearing them looked cool as a cucumber; relaxed and suave in sockless loafers and a crisp white oxford.

Though most of us would run the other way when presented with such an outfit, it worked on this gentleman because it fit his particular personality.  For the rest of us, spicing up the warm weather wardrobe will likely include less extravagant exercises in color.  Though we still need to dress professionally for the work week– or at least wear long pants – there is still room for personal style in manageable increments.

As a general rule, please do not make the mistake of thinking that dressing for summer weather means wearing togs better suited to the beach or a weekend cookout.  Always assume that someone important will need to see you during the day and dress accordingly.  How then do you “responsibly” add that bit of personal color?  A favorite option of mine is to use accessories as a way to tone down the formality of office attire while still offering the world a little flash of style.

Ribbon watch straps a great option, especially for the summer.  You’ll be amazed at how a preppy grosgrain or NATO strap can change the whole feel of your favorite wrist watch.  Additionally, these straps give your timepiece a breezy, vintage feel.  People will think that your dad wore it back when he was studying archaeology at Yale.

Smart Turnout makes some of the best ribbon straps; from British military unit colors to England’s venerable colleges – even American Ivy’s – you can find something that fits your personal style.  They are easy to swap around, so keep a drawer full and match your watch your watch to your mood.  If needed, invest in the little tool that allows you to remove the pins which hold most watch bands in place – it makes life easier.

Belts are another simple way to add color to your look while falling well within the bounds of great practical style.  Tucker Blair needlepoint belts are a unique and thoroughly preppy way to add some fun and color to your summer wardrobe.  Though a new company, Tucker Blair’s signature needlepoint belts are a classic in a New Englandy sort of way.  They are an instant classic as well; each one is a little work of art and an instant heirloom.  They truly are unique and speak to both New England clambakes and Low Country boils.

Ribbon belts are a popular and less expensive way to give your style a little punch.  Great companies like J. Crew, J. Press, and Gap offer stripes, critters, solids and plaid versions that make choosing one an easy exercise in personal messaging.

Another summer staple of the past that’s getting a new shot of life is patchwork madras.  In the states at least, it seemed like back in the day everyone’s father had a shirt like this.  Each year it was debuted at the family Memorial Day picnic and was kept busy all summer long.

Each washing left the cloth a little softer and a little more faded – the sign of true madras.  Cape Madras, founded in 2004, has resurrected the real thing and built a unique company that is both dyed in the wool American and dyed in Madras, Indian. While the Cape Madras collection is designed by the creative team in the US, the company weaves all its own fabric designs in rural villages in India.

Unlike the traditional muted colors one associated with madras, they use colors not usually seen in traditional madras like bright pinks, greens and oranges.  With offerings of shirts, shorts, jackets, pants, you can find a classic summery look for any occasion.

To add an extra layer of individuality, choose a signature, something that people will associate with you alone.  A relative of mine wears round tortoise shell glasses. Since I can remember he has always worn them and by now anything else just wouldn’t look right.  Since he is particularly Ivy League in his style of dress, the glasses give him a living Ralph Lauren ad persona.  It’s just right on him.  So, what’s your summer signature of personal style?

Leave a Comment