Online Shopping & Men

Last year, I read an interesting article in the Wall Street Journal that discussed how luxury makers who traditionally target women are taking aim at the men in their lives. While this is not a particularly new trend, the intensity and focus surrounding the effort is definitely growing.

I also read about Longchamp reviving its line of men’s bags, and it turns out that was only the opening salvo. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Lanvin, and even Dolce & Gabbana have all ramped up their menswear related offerings.

While men are beginning to actually shop more like women, achieving the same level of brand loyalty is still an elusive goal. Generally speaking men are still more comfortable switching brands if one maker does not carry a desired product.

Men also appear to be taking that hunter/gatherer shopping approach to the mall. In 1995 52% of men bought their own clothes, compared to 75% in 2006. In addition, the menswear segment of the retail landscape has become quite profitable as guys across the board ease into the role of acquisitive spender. After observing this growing trend, retailers are taking action.

For example, in 2007, Tiffany & Co. and Hermes both opened new stores in the Wall Street district of New York City. Each of these locations specifically target male shoppers. The Hermes store even has a separate salon dedicated to its custom tailored clothing; the first of its kind in any Hermes outlet.

In this past week’s Wall Street Journal, another layer was added to the mix: Internet shopping.

According to Forrester Research, men are also the alpha species when it comes to shopping online. We spend more, make fast decisions and as a group, tend not to return the stuff we don’t really want. As to the spending, another market research group found that in the previous three months, men dropped an average of US$2,400 online compared to women who spent closer to US$1,500. And men spent most of that money almost exclusively on luxury goods.

Retailers are responding to men’s web based demands as well. With this new insight into how men shop online, Brooks Brothers has cut in half the time it takes for images to pop up on its website’s pages - now literally a fraction of a second. This way, guys can quickly pull up what they want to see and decide on a purchase without losing interest because of loading delays. Brooks has also introduced a new tool that lets customers shop magazine and newspaper ads. Pull up the ad on the Brooks Brothers site and just roll your curser over any item you want to buy.

Many companies have expanded existing or created brand new men’s departments on their websites. Others are tweaking their sites to be more men-friendly. Neiman Marcus has revamped how it presents ties on your computer screen; where once you could only view nine at a time, now a whopping 52 instantly pop up.

This is handy because, just like in the bricks and mortar world, men don’t like to waste time shopping online. On average, a guy will take a third of the time a woman does to make a purchase. And once a sale is made, should the reality not match up with the dream, men return less than 10% of their apparel purchases while women return more than 20%.

Men are not yet the next women when it comes to shopping – online or otherwise – but maybe it doesn’t even matter. Men are now interested in shopping for themselves. They care about the experience and are more knowledgeable than ever before. If you are a retailer, that’s what you should really be focusing on.

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Commuter & Dad Bag Test: Crumpler – Funny Name, Good Bag

Crumpler Complete Seed ($105.00) & Part and Parcel ($160.00) / www.crumplerbags.com

BACKGROUND
Ever heard of Crumpler? Maybe not, but I suspect that most readers might recognize that little crazy-haired logo on the company’s bags. You might not remember exactly where you saw him or on what, but chances are it will ring familiar.

Crumpler is one of those brands; sort of everywhere but not necessarily front and center. The Australian company takes its bag making very seriously, but certainly not itself. The wacky product names that to an Australian contain a bit of tongue-in-cheek humor are all but lost on confused Americans. The website is a riot of cartoons, icons and stuffed animals. You have to hunt a bit for the actual products and then figure out what picture connects to which bag category.

Definitely a quirky company; they even demonstrate their bags’ various capacities by stacking six packs of beer inside – what else could you want?

Still, it’s a bag company and the bags definitely take center stage. Crumpler’s messenger, computer and photography bags are marvels of design and construction, and that’s what counts. Founded Down Under by former bike messengers, comfort and durability blend creatively with innovative, almost organic, designs.

The result is a distinctive personality and DNA that carries through to each of their designs. Once you know Crumpler, you can spot their bags a mile away.

THE RESULTS
I contacted Crumpler USA to find out if they could spare a bag for the Commuter and Dad Bag Test. They said, “Sure, we’d be chuffed” and proceeded to send me two; a messenger bag in gun metal grey and a laptop bag in a two-toned blue.

I was not really looking to test a laptop bag per se. But when speaking with them, I had mentioned rather specifically that since I was trying to find that elusive one-bag-that-can-do-it-all, carrying a laptop was one something that factored in.

So, along with the Complete Seed messenger bag, Crumpler sent along its Part and Parcel laptop bag.

Both are some of the best made messenger style bags I’ve ever seen. The water resistant 1000D nylon shell and 420D nylon interior are thick and sturdy. The Velcro closures are large and stay closed, even with full loads. Both have additional adjustable quick-release straps as well.

Crumpler shoulder straps are second to none; they are strong, flexible and thick enough to have an almost rounded edge. The shoulder pad, which is included (there’s an idea), is large and molds comfortably to your shoulder. The bags also have a standard “third leg” stability strap that provides additional security across your chest for full loads.

Part and Parcel

The first thing that strikes you when gazing upon the P&P for the first time is that it looks large; but that’s a bit of a false impression. Though boxy looking, it is not a deep bag, so when you actually sling it over your shoulder it doesn’t feel too large or heavy, even when fully loaded.

The P&P is very much a messenger bag at heart; it has no carrying handle and no outside pockets once the large flap is closed. When open however, a cacophony of interior pockets is revealed. And though usually a plus, in this case I could have done with fewer.

The bag is divided into two main areas; the rear section which includes the computer sleeve and space for large items like files and binders. The computer sleeve is generous and has enough padding to protect a stack of bone china plates.

The front section has all those multiple storage pockets and therein lies my sole complaint. There are just too many small pockets piled up one upon the other. Once I had filled them up, it became a challenge to remember which pocket actually held what item. Since each one has either zippered or velcro closures, you can’t even take a quick glance when searching for, say, your metro pass. Not a critical issue, but it’s still annoying.

There is a lot of organization housed in this bag. Even the inside of the flap is put to use by way of a large mesh pocket, though I’m not sure what I would store there. My wife tested the P&P as well and noted that a carrying handle would make a world of difference for those times when the shoulder strap is not practical, like getting in or out of a car.

The Complete Seed

Frankly, I was not entirely sure if I would like this black hole of a bag. It’s big. And if you don’t actually need a large bag, it can quickly become a formless hassle. Not so with the Complete Seed. This is now officially one of my favorite bags. Though certainly large, it is incredibly comfortable to carry either full or not so full.

This is a classic messenger bag so it’s designed to carry lots of stuff; hence, the focus is a large main compartment. Additionally, there are six smaller pockets ingeniously built into the Complete Seed’s front panel. The three “outer” pockets open along the bag’s top edge so they are easy to access while on the move. The three inner pockets are positioned identically, but run along the backside of the front panel (that is, on the inside of the bag). The center of these has a velcro closure to better secure small articles.

Locating the small pockets in such a fashion allows the main compartment to remain a huge block of negative space into which you could fit a small car. You almost don’t even notice the other pockets at all.

When filled with books, files and a laptop, it was still comfortable to carry. Though there was some shifting, that problem is not uncommon with a large bag that has no organizational features in its main compartment.

WRAP UP
This is easy; both are excellent bags with many pluses and a few minuses. Even then, the minuses can be chalked up to the simple fact that each bag was built to perform a certain job so its features are geared in a particular direction. Both bags are some of the best constructed I’ve ever come across and each is truly unique.

Crumpler is innovative in its marketing approach and unafraid to design bags which are distinctive to the point of niche. Either you like them or you don’t. I do.

Which one is closest to my idea of a commuter/dad bag? The Complete Seed hits that mark. Though not really appropriate for a suit, and most messenger bags are not, it is a stylish and totally functional workhorse that I’ve been happy to tote around.

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Jeans: Just Liking the Basics

We talk a lot about brands on this site. What’s in or what’s out, what the new trend is and what you should give up. Brands and labels do matter; sometimes to others but more often to us. There is a certain cache to having an Etro suit as opposed to a mere Jos. A Bank; not only is the quality usually better but so is the “check me out” factor. But does the brand always have to be front and center?

When it comes to clothing, especially dress and tailored clothing, you do usually get what you pay for. Creating a well made odd jacket, for example, takes the time and effort of an experienced tailor and will involve more expensive materials. The amount of skill needed to construct a hand rolled lapel alone is prohibitively expensive for most average consumers.

For those of us who feel that the benefits of such craftsmanship are well worth the expense, arguing over the perceived value of a label is a rather moot point. But what about traditionally less glamorous articles of clothing – like jeans?

I know there has been a lot discussion of late about the benefits of raw, vintage, selvage, destroyed and every other sort of designer denim. The very design of the jean pant has evolved dramatically over the past few years. In fact, many see denim as the next big design movement for men.

Here is my problem: I like basic jeans. As I am now closer to 40 than 30, my need for a jean wardrobe has diminished. I simply don’t wear them as much as I used to. While I have flexibility when it comes to what I can wear to the office, I prefer tailored clothing. And when it comes to jeans, I happen to like a basic, functional and classic design.

I’ve decided that Levi’s classic 505 jeans are right for me. Nothing fancy; no hand sanding or customized distressing. I don’t want to break in my jeans for three months or dote over them like an expectant father. Though I have very high standards when it comes to most of the wardrobe, jeans are the exception. To me, they are supposed to be basic and casual. Jeans are iconic because of their lack of embellishment and fussiness. The very functionality of jeans is what makes them so archetypal.

Surprisingly, this opinion has left me with an odd feeling of not being too cool. Everywhere I look, I see a growing cadre of men’s designer jeans that can cost three to four times as much as the plain old five-pocket classics I prefer. Am I out of the loop; out of touch with current trends and the truly stylish? Shouldn’t I want to pull on APC or 7 For All Mankind? What about Rag and Bone? For more than $200, shouldn’t they be so much better than plain old Levis’ ring spun cotton?

I have fretted over my lack of designer jean obsession; I mean, I can talk for hours about the nuances of jacket venting (double), cashmere versus merino (merino), and the ideal grey flannel trouser (Incotex). So, why not jeans?

After considering this case from a number of angles, I have found an answer that works for me: I don’t care; it’s just what I like. When it comes to jeans, I go for the basics. That doesn’t mean I don’t appreciate the creativity and unique quality that designers jeans offer; I do.

But, as is common in matters of fashion, I have likes and dislikes that are particular to me. And though I have no problem paying a premium for certain things, the jeans that work for me are just average Levis. That’s what makes life interesting.

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Brooks Brothers Gets Ready for the Spring

Brooks Brothers recently launched its Spring line and I think it looks pretty good. It’s not cutting edge or breaking any new stylistic ground, but the design team has decided to channel the golden age of menswear – 1930s and ‘40s Hollywood. They have done a pretty good job of capturing the flair of that era, while at the same time reinterpreting the fashions for today’s consumers.

There is a pleasing balance to the overall style, timeless classics like sport coats cut for warmer weather in silk and merino blends and lightweight Harris Tweed, shawl collared cardigan sweaters, and elegant shirting. There are also a few items that take some sartorial guts to wear, like the Ghurka styled belted shorts and pink seersucker blazer. Neither is particularly edgy, but sometimes it’s easier to be outrageously shocking than truly classic.

This season’s collection, as with nearly all since the company was acquired by Italian Claudio Del Vecchio in 2001, has a distinctly European feel. The overall message is American glamour, but the execution is quite continental. Not that Brooks Brothers has ever been slacker when it comes to actual quality, but until Mr. Del Vecchio took the reins, there had been a very distinct sense of sartorial stagnation.

Not too long ago, I also stopped by Brooks Brothers’ flagship store on Madison Avenue to check out the Black Fleece line. Thom Browne’s joint venture with Brooks has been both lauded and paned. Up on the third floor of the store, with a huge plasma screen showing runway clips in a slightly industrial showroom style setting with freestanding sample racks, I found a hipper version of the Brooks Brothers’ traditional clubby feel. Overall, I was impressed.

I ran into two Japanese gents trying on Black Fleece oxford shirts and asked them for an opinion on fit; “definitely a slimmer fit,” came the reply. But they both seemed pretty impressed; and so was I. The samples on display, turned inside-out, highlighted exceptional tailoring and the fabrics were alternately butter soft or weighty and dense - each appropriate to the piece.

The general feel of the collection is a merger between the pared down monochromatic aesthetic of 1950s America and the restrained yet stylized European body conscious look of today. It’s not your dad’s Brooks Brothers, but it’s also not abandonment of classic style. That same traditional sensibility is there, but with a twist.

Some things however, like the dove gray morning coat tricked out with white trim, a la boating jacket, are wholly decorative and practically nonfunctional in the real world (at least mine). Browne’s trademark shrunken suit has been elongated to the more realistic proportions of actual men who don’t work the runways for a living. It’s a fresh breath of air for a classic label.

Another strong design season is putting Brooks Brothers back on the style map.

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Bell & Ross: An Interesting Watch

When it comes to wrist watches, the shape and style of the watch case is often a variation on a common platform. They are round, rectangular or Tourneau – all traditional shapes. Once in a while though, a manufacturer comes along and dramatically changes the playing field. While not for everyone, Bell & Ross is one of those companies. Designed after airplane cockpit gauges, their BR Instrument line of timepieces is about as distinctive as you can get.

Founded in Switzerland in 1992 by a group of aeronautical designers, Bell & Ross is focused on producing watches that are both distinctive and suitable for use by demanding professionals like pilots, divers, astronauts and specialized police units.

What sets Bell & Ross apart from other Swiss watchmakers is its focus on utilitarian design, complimented by exceptional technical craftsmanship usually found inside luxury cases. Their designs tend to follow the school of “form follows function,” so the distinctive square shape of the Instrument line is, in fact, dictated by the goal of precision timekeeping and durability.

The company has four stated design principles that guide the development of their timepieces: water resistance, mechanical precision, readability and performance. The readability principle has perhaps the biggest impact on the watch’s physical design.

Hence, the Instrument line looks like, well, flight instruments. This practical design scheme ultimately makes for a truly unique watch in what too often seems like a sea of sameness.

These square cased watches are large, distinctive and instantly recognizable. Particularly unique is the watch face’s strong graphic design; large white markings on matt black backgrounds. The goal, of course, is to mimic the clear visual indicators of cockpit controls.

The Instrument line comes in four primary models: the BR 01-92 black dial automatic; the BR 01-94 Chronograph; the BR 01-96 big date; and the BR 01-97 power reserve. There is also a rather elaborate tourbillion model that is, to me, a little funny looking. For those out there with smaller wrists, there is also a mid-sized version of the Instrument line in a 42 millimeter size.

In keeping with the demands of collectors, each of these watches is also available in finishes other than black; from brushed steel to rose gold. While large and frankly clunky looking when lying on a table, once on the wrist, Instrument watches are particularly masculine looking.

If you are looking to invest in something interesting when it comes to watches, take a look at the Instrument line from Bell & Ross – it’s definitely different.

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