When a Tailor Says No…

old-tailor-london

I attended a wedding last month, and at the reception was introduced (amongst many delightful people) to a gentleman with whom I predictably began to talk tailoring. We were talking about what makes brands (particularly menswear brands) feel truly special and one of the many interesting points that was made by the other party, was that he likes to be dressed (and I gather have suits made) by some friends of his at Hackett, because the staff there … [Read more...]

An Interview with Christopher Modoo, Creative and Buying Manager at Chester Barrie Savile Row

C-Modoo

Let me introduce you to Mr. Christopher Modoo, Creative and Buying Manager at Chester Barrie, who's work in transforming the brand's tailoring (and casualwear collections) in recent years, has led to Chester Barrie's fast becoming one of the most desirable names in luxury British tailoring. Chris was kind enough to invite me to his Savile Row office, which adjoins the company's flagship store at No. 19, so that we could chat about his style, his … [Read more...]

Sartorial Love Hate: Collar Popped Turtle

collar-pop-turtleneck

"Erm, why are those dudes wearing shirts?" "What dudes?" "Those dudes. The ones wearing the turtle necks. The ones wearing their turtle necks over their damn shirts and poking the collar out at the neck." Ah Pitti. You can always rely on it to start a new fad. There were the slightly peasant like floppy hats (which even ended up in Zara) the tie back-blading (which many found obnoxious to the point of attempted strangulation) and now we … [Read more...]

The Trouser Department III: Pleats and Pockets

trousers3-boxy-pleat

Thus far in this trilogy (part I, part II) we've covered the various different elements of the trouser silhouette; comprising leg width, hem line, rise, turn-ups and the possibility of plain hems. Now I'm going to draw all of these elements together (hopefully), through a discussion of the much overlooked subjects of pleats and pockets. Pleats are a somewhat complex subject, so I'm going to try to keep this concise. As you will doubtless know, … [Read more...]

Feeling Black & Blue

black-blue-bradley

I’ve never been one for sartorial dogma for the sake of it. I particularly find it cereal-spittingly funny when sartorialists debate with each other the merits of colour combinations, the dos, donts, whys and wherefores, as if discussing the sentencing of young offenders. “Brown and pink is acceptable; brown and purple is not. You will be marked as a Frenchman.” “I think I read somewhere that you should never wear light grey with … [Read more...]