The Trouser Department III: Pleats and Pockets

trousers3-boxy-pleat

Thus far in this trilogy (part I, part II) we've covered the various different elements of the trouser silhouette; comprising leg width, hem line, rise, turn-ups and the possibility of plain hems. Now I'm going to draw all of these elements together (hopefully), through a discussion of the much overlooked subjects of pleats and pockets. Pleats are a somewhat complex subject, so I'm going to try to keep this concise. As you will doubtless know, … [Read more...]

Feeling Black & Blue

black-blue-bradley

I’ve never been one for sartorial dogma for the sake of it. I particularly find it cereal-spittingly funny when sartorialists debate with each other the merits of colour combinations, the dos, donts, whys and wherefores, as if discussing the sentencing of young offenders. “Brown and pink is acceptable; brown and purple is not. You will be marked as a Frenchman.” “I think I read somewhere that you should never wear light grey with … [Read more...]

The Trouser Department II: Getting the Silhouette Right

silh-60s-suit-example

For the sake of brevity this column is going to discuss a number of things, namely trouser rise, leg width and the trouser hem-line. In other words I'll be focusing on trouser fit, something which I think suffers from a distinct lack of attention in modern fashion. I wrote in my first column on the subject how trousers have a bad-deal, and what I meant by that, put simply, is that we don't think about them enough or pay nearly enough attention … [Read more...]

Sartorial Tinderness

Tinder-sart

“Bow ties never fail to impress” writes a pouting blonde of 25; “I love the first picture!! So dapper!” a brunette of 30 gushes excitedly. And then a 23 year old redhead spoils the party: “What’s with the suits? You look so stiff! Good thing you’re cute!” Welcome to the world of Tinder, sartorialist. Dating is no longer a qualitative sport. It’s turned into an app-based quantitative exercise (strong emphasis on … [Read more...]

InStitchu UK Interview

institchu-iw

1. What is the InStitchu UK story and what are you seeking to achieve in tailoring? InStitchu UK was born out of necessity after my business partner and I were unable to find a high quality, tailor made suit for under £600. It was at this point I approached the Australian business (now the market leader) and proposed helping them setup the business here in the UK, knowing that people like myself would love a service like this. Our vision … [Read more...]