John Lobb: When You Polish Suede

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Store managers see some funny things. For every customer that has saved up for six months to afford his first pair of luxury shoes, there is one that orders three more pairs of the black oxfords he already owns. The first will take half an hour of advice and reassurance. The second wants to be in and out in 10 minutes. It is fair to say that the second group is also more likely to know less about their shoes, particularly as regards … [Read more...]

Go On, Try American Apparel

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I tried to get a friend recently to go into American Apparel. He looked at me askance. “That place?” he asked incredulously. “It’s full of leotards, Lycra and hideous colours.” I knew what he meant. But I made him go in anyway. Because if I hadn’t been driven in by recommendations, hype and word-of-mouth, I still wouldn’t have anywhere to buy my t-shirts. If you walk into American Apparel (now seven stores just in London, and … [Read more...]

The Coat Project 3

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Yes, that’s right. It’s a picture of me cutting the cloth for my polo coat. Russell at Graham Browne realised that I just have a natural tailor’s touch and decided I would cut the whole thing better than him. Also, he fancied a cup of tea and a nice sit-down. Not really. Russell was kind enough to let me cut just a few inches of the back piece for my coat. And even that I managed to mess up slightly, losing the second, lower piece of … [Read more...]

Fin’s: A Solution To A Bugbear

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I have a bugbear about driving shoes. I hate the ridge, bobbles or gommini that all brands put on the back of their shoes, as well as the sole. Originally, I presume this was to retain grip on the floor of the car, seeing as your foot would be pivoting on its heel as it caressed the accelerator. But no one wears driving shoes to drive today, and the rubber bits on the back mean that one’s trousers bunch up at the back, sitting on the rubber … [Read more...]

Turn Back Your (Cotton) Cuffs

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OK, so this is how I came to the earth-shattering style insight alluded to in the title: • most of my ready-to-wear jackets have sleeves that are slightly too long; • most of those jackets are casual as my suit jackets are mostly bespoke; • because they are casual they tend to be of rougher material (cotton, linen); • they are also cheaper jackets for that reason; • so I’ve never paid to have the sleeves shortened … [Read more...]