Smart Trousers

If there is one thing, in the gentle naivety of my youth, which I never believed I would say it’s this: I am bored of wearing jeans. I still wear denim. Mostly slim fit and skinny denim; very fashion-forward stuff which keeps my outfits from looking too pompous. I have this belief that fashionable denim keeps even the most establishment of outfits as fresh as ever. But denim is not something that now, I wish to wear day in, day out. I will always buy it, for me it is indispensable, but I feel more excitement for other items now; grey flannel trousers, black skinny trousers, Prince of Wales check Oxford bags. There is so much variety in terms of smart-casual trousers, and this autumn and winter, there has never been a better time to fill your drawers with non-denim pants.

A couple of years ago, I was warmly ensconced with a filthy martini and some young woman in a bar who gave me some interesting, albeit affronting advice. She told me that the trousers I was wearing were ‘Smart but not sexy’. ‘Jeans are just so much sexier’ she said. I didn’t agree with her, and quite frankly, despite a little immediate soreness, I didn’t care. Trousers were certainly not en vogue, unless you happened to be wearing them as part of a suit, and some women I have encountered have judged male sartorial sex appeal on the popularity of the clothing. Individualism back then was not really all that appealing.

Two years and a Pete Doherty later and Individualism is the new rock and roll pastime. Mocking the nouveau Mods, shops such as TopMan were piled high with every kind of vintage knock-off and badge of eccentricity going; waistcoats, window checks, tie-pins, fedoras and flat-caps. It was, and still is, a period in which Period was in. Riding in on the wave of heritage came trousers; and they were not combats.

Here are a few suggestions for those who believe their lower-half is in need of a little tailoring.

Check trousers

Check trousers are a quirky item for the wardrobe. They are not simple, and fashion is temperamental about their charms. However, a classic check in brown or grey will look sophisticated and stylish in the years to come. For different looks, go for two types of trouser; perhaps a brown check pair of slim fit or skinny fit for more on-trend, daring looks and a pair of wide-legged grey check trousers for wearing with looser fitting cardigans and jumpers.

Nailhead, tooth and other patterns    

Smaller patterns also look fantastic and though they are very much daytime wear, are extremely versatile. A small houndstooth check or large nailhead pattern can look fantastic when worn with a velvet blazer. With this style of trouser, Oxford bag cuts with turn ups can look great, although I believe slimmer versions of houndstooth checks, for example, are more appropriate.

Grey flannel

Grey flannel is classically appealing and an evergreen style fabric and it’s ridiculously versatile; Audrey Hepburn framed a picture of Fred Astaire, whom she adored, in his favourite grey flannel. The trousers look fantastic with casual jumpers and smart, dark jackets and go wonderfully well with brown or black shoes. I would favour a narrower leg with grey flannel as they are more likely to be used for smarter occasions than more casual ones. Adding turn ups is a nod to tradition as this is how Astaire himself wore them.

Evening trousers

Not just for formal occasions, evening trousers are suitable for cocktails or dinner with friends; they’re certainly edging towards ‘dandy’ in style, but who cares? Wear them with or without satin or velvet trim, keep them slim and couple with smart patent loafers (as pictured) and perhaps a cashmere turtle neck.

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The Importance of Clothing Texture in an Outfit

As a person interested in art, I have always taken a keen interest in painting. When I was a young boy, painting was all around me; my grandfather, who lived near to us, was an artist who would constantly draw and paint things. I was taken to galleries and picture shows, was given pencils and brushes, in the hope that I would find inspiration in the things I saw.

Abstract art was something that did not appeal to me. As a child, I was interested in the figurative; an artists representation of something tangible. One particular thing I remember was the delicate way in which some artists represented clothing; the beautiful textures of lace and silk, the lush velvets and harsh sacking. They were often so accurately reproduced on canvas, so carefully combined. When I revisited the National Gallery recently to look at some of my favourite pieces, I realised that texture was one of the things I appreciated most in painting. Even a collection of simple cotton, linen and jute was a rich cocktail of weaves.

Clothing texture is something that is often overlooked when shopping for an outfit. This is a great pity as texture is as important in clothing as colour, and in fact, in tone on tone outfits, can be the defining quality. The satin or silk faced lapel and the cotton pique of an evening outfit are at opposite ends of the texture scale and yet their juxtaposition works very well indeed. It’s the same for woollen jackets trimmed with velvet and wearing woollen ties with fine cotton - opposites attract.

A lot of men’s clothing on the market is manufactured in similar texture materials. Merino wool jumpers, woollen jackets, woollen scarves; cotton shirts, cotton trousers and cotton socks. Materials of texture like silk, velvet and linen are marginalised and yet they can lift a quite ordinary outfit if used correctly.

We are fortunate in the world of today to have huge quantities of the world’s materials available to us. Cashmere, once a whispered luxury is now overflowing from outfitters such as GAP. Artificial materials, mocking the skins of endangered and protected species, are being improved and consequently expanding the texture base available to the 21st century fashion buyer.

Velvet 

Though a luxury material, the modern manufacture using polyester instead of fine cotton or silk, has meant that velvet has slipped down a few rungs on the luxury ladder; no longer is it seen as an exclusive fabric. However, men have been wearing velvet jackets for over 200 years. Velvet was worn by fashionable rakes such as Sir Lumley Skeffington, and its rare and pleasing appearance gave the wearer a touch of mythic grandeur. I own a velvet blazer from Zara and adore wearing it with cotton jumpers and silk scarves; the mix of textures is the main reason for my favour of this look. Pictured are two velvet creations from Gucci. Note how well the blue velvet jacket contrasts against the thick weave of the jumper underneath.

Silk

I love silk. The fantastic thing about this fabric is that there is more than one way it can be made, more than one texture effect to be had. Slub silk and shantung silk is the ‘rough’ stuff, and Favourbrook make some fantastic pocket squares in a slub fabric, great to contrast with a dark blue suit. Smoother silk is great for scarves and cravats (yes, cravats), and this always adds refinement to an outfit. Again the contrast can be stunning; a polka dot silk scarf with a cloth cap.

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Suit Styles: More than One Way to Wear a Suit

There is, it is said, more than one way to skin a cat. Not that I, or you, the collective readership should concern ourselves with this grisly practice, but you should note the pleasure of possibility. I had been told, and believed, there was only one way to wear a suit. Englishmen are notoriously arrogant when it comes to suits. Some men believe that because a certain Regency fop is responsible for the shape and style of the modern suit, that the English, as the inventors, are naturally the best.

This is, of course, bunkum. We are never necessarily the best at anything we create; in fact, we are often sub-standard and sometimes appalling. Our lack of success in sports such as soccer, rugby, tennis and cricket are examples of this. Our trains and railways are some of the worst in Europe and the Germans and Swedes produce vacuum cleaners that make ours seem little more than glorified drinking straws.

Though we often, for a freak moment get it incredibly right, in continued development for the next 100 years or so, we sometimes get it badly wrong. The baton has passed on many an occasion to someone else and a lot of sore Englishmen are left with the small pride of the accident of invention.

On occasion, however, we not only get it right at the crucial moment of introduction, we make sure that we keep doing it right, and upgrading where needed to maintain our status as world leaders. The suit is an example of this, and although the English style of suit attire is currently more popular than ever, the Anglo style is not the only one; the cat can be skinned many a way.

The Continental

The Continental suit is not a world away from the Englishman suit. It’s rather similar, but then it’s altogether quite a different thing; instead of a chicken roast, it’s chicken with Belgian fries. Usually a two or three button creation, but never double breasted, the Continental suit prefers espresso and croissants to toast and tea. The trousers are narrower and shorter than most suits which gives the Continental the badge of youth.

The materials and patterns are sharp and smart, but never fierce; no pin or chalk stripes. The Continental has been known to sport feint window-check patterns, but usually, cool Brussels blues and Geneva greys are the order of the day. Shirts are generally white and blue; the Continental is a busy man and has no time for choosing natty stripes or charming checks. Collars are either spread or tall, and ties are generally knitted creations in plain dark colours.

Knots are the size of a small pain au chocolat and the cuffs are always double. The Continental does adopt the Englishman affectation of wearing a pocket square, but he restricts himself to ironed white linen – leaving the Ros-bifs to their loud silk paisley. Famous advocates of the Continental include the late Gianni Agnelli, Bernard Arnault and Nicolas Sarkozy.

The Gangster

Though he might have replaced his violin case with a briefcase, the Gangster still wants to be noticed. Although a lot of gangsters dressed respectably, initially in a bid to avoid likely arrest, this was taken to an extreme and this look is parodied as the gangster style. Double breasted and three-piece suits are the bread and butter; the Gangster suit is made of some of the most glaring fabrics available to tailors. Loud, contrasting chalk and pinstripes in charcoal grey and midnight blue, the Gangster suit is often made with bright, contrasting linings. Trousers are wider, more similar to Oxford bags of the 1930s in shape.
Shirts ape the Englishman style, but collars are mostly downward pointing. Coloured shirts with white collars are favourites, as are thick stripes, luxurious whites and pinks. Ties are generally colour-matched and though they are often bright, are usually tasteful. No skinny tie for the Gangster; he wants as much silk as he can lay his hands on, and he makes sure people can see it. Tie-pins are a rare, but elegant, accessory and pocket squares are bright and beautiful. Gangster gunners include Ozwald Boateng, Jay Z and Damon Dash.

The Italian

The Italian is a close cousin of the Continental, but unlike his cousin, he respects the Englishman less. For you see, the Italian believes that he is the one true suit; beside him there is no other suit. He is certainly the most removed from the Englishman in terms of fit and style; he is much more relaxed and the trousers are looser and less tailored. The materials are different too. Whereas the Englishman uses thick worsted, the Italian uses fine wool and linen. The Englishman is breakfast at the Ritz and the Italian is brunch at Carluccio’s; he doesn’t need to prove anything.

Shirts are very rarely anything other than crisp white and the collar can be tall and contemporary like the Continental cousin, or soft and classic. The Italian likes to do ties differently too; thick silks in dark tones, tied in square-ish knots are never club-striped but can be dotted. The Italian is sometimes so modern, that he often goes without ties. To offset the shock of this look, he retains the effete pocket square, but he is united with his cousin, the Continental, in restricting himself to ironed white linen. Italian revolutionaries include George Clooney, Tom Ford and, naturally, Silvio Berlusconi.

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Choosing Eyeglasses for Your Face Shape

When I went shopping with a young lady recently for some new glasses, the massive range of designer frames on offer pushed me into a state of contemplation; I began to wonder what frames would suit my face, should the need for eyewear present itself. At present I have very good vision, although as both my mother and elder brother are now wearing prescription glasses, it wouldn’t surprise me if I needed vision assistance in the years to come. The difficulties I faced in choosing hypothetical eyewear made me appreciate the considerable troubles that a person requiring glasses faces.

Some people may reject spectacles altogether and plump for contact lenses. Glasses, to some people, look geeky and unattractive, and no amount of modernisation or flashing of designer credentials will change their opinion. Admittedly, if you need vision assistance all hours of the day, then contacts are probably preferable. However, they will be very fiddly for those that require assistance in relation to specific problems such as reading or viewing from a great distance; the ‘in/out’ debacle is likely to infuriate the most patient of people.

Therefore, frames are just unavoidable, and as such, some people choose to attempt to hide this fact by wearing rimless glasses or very thin-framed spectacles. Unfortunately, it never really works; any facial scaffolding will show, and the extravagant cost of these glasses is hardly justified by the mixed results. Speaking as a person who is likely to be a future spectacle man, I would prefer to embrace my need for glasses; elegant and stylish frames can be found for the modish man and whatever your face-shape, there will be plenty of choice.

Round face

If you are a man with a smooth, round face then some spectacles with a bold rectangular frame should suit you. Keep the lenses larger, as on your particular face, shallow lenses can make your eyes look smaller.

Square jaw

If you have a round face with a square jaw, wearing square glasses might make your face look a little hard. It’s better to wear oval glasses to soften your jutting chin. Be careful not to go for frames that are too narrow as these will look childish.

Flat chin, tall head

If you have a tall head with a flat chin, you would look best in thin, wide rectangular frames. The wide glasses balance your face well.

Heart shaped face

If you have this shape of face then you will look fantastic in oval glasses. The softer frames will balance the sharpness of your features.

Oval head

If you have an oval head, with a tall forehead and long chin, it’s best to try and balance your look by wearing large rounded-square spectacles. Harsh angles would look too hard against your face shape, so rounded corners are perfect for your features.

Style of glasses

There are literally hundreds of styles of frames available. It’s important to pay attention to your particular combination of features; how large and prominent your eyes, nose and mouth are will influence how frames will suit you. Also, remember to refrain from falling in love with particular frame styles that may not suit you – they can sometimes only look fabulous when lying on your desk. It’s also important to choose glasses consistent with your personality and clothing style – retro frames will suit the man who exudes a vintage style, but they are unlikely to look well on a man who is ultra modern.

The style of glasses that suited me (pictured) in every sense are rather retro, if a little comic, but I feel they represent my personality and personal style very well.

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Americana Look: The Urban Cowboy Trend

It is rare that I applaud fashion. Style is far more important to me than trend, and it is to that Pantheon of style icons that I pay homage. As Oscar Wilde once said,“fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.” It is that unappealing temporary charm that puts me off fashion; that risk of buying something which will be worthless in half a year. I am never a slave to fashion.

However, fashion has its moments. They are rare and fleeting, but they are there. Once in a while it learns to provide practical style which will last from season to season, year to year. One particular autumn and winter trend has been the Americana look; checks and plaids, sport shirts, corduroy and cosy thick weave scarves. “Nothing” you may cry, “that hasn’t been in GAP for the last ten years!” Perhaps you are right. Perhaps there is nothing that revolutionary about the look, but does there need to be? It’s just something that fits so very well with the cold season. Cosy materials, patterns echoing a bright practicality, and accessories galore make the look thoroughly appropriate for the coming months.

Plaid and denim

One of the most comforting things about this look is that you can relax in the clothing without fear. It is a very casual look and the less contrived and the more ‘lived-in’ the outcome the better. Denim does not have to be skinny, dark and straight. In fact, the best denim to wear with this urban cowboy uniform is washed, old looking denim. The dark and shiny Dior Homme jeans are not appropriate – the plaid and denim man has to look like he cares less about the fineness of threads and more about unswept leaves on the driveway.

Boots and coats

Plaid shirts and college-style blazers and cord jackets are very charming in a New England way. However, the key to the outback dandy’s image is the lack of formality. Lapels begone! Big chunky coats are a central part of this look. Hacking jackets and duffel coats offset the hick charm of plaid and check and keep the palette under control; their versatility allows for multiple layering.

Footwear should be carefully considered also. The urban cowboy has no need for Wellington boots, but practical shoes and boots with a Commando sole do work well and are very comfortable for cold winter days. They also help to promote the casual weekender appeal of the look.

Scarves and hats

Scarves for this look are big and chunky. No skinny scarves or delicate silk here. A man needs a scarf that looks almost childlike in its naivety. Huge weave, snake-like creations and tartan are the key trends for scarves. If wearing tartan, avoid wearing with too many checked or plaid items – overkill would be a shame.

Hats are important for the urban cowboy. He likes to be outside, it reminds him of being at home on the range, and he needs some practical headgear to keep his ears warm. Beanies, woodsman caps and driving hats are the order of the day. Nothing too elaborate, just a little nod to design by incorporating a houndstooth or check pattern.

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