Military Style Appeal

Men in uniform: a classic image that has melted the heart of many a housewife. From the brass buttons and epaulettes to the squeaking boots and shining sword; the romantic image of a soldier is forever captivating. The Beau, it is said, pursued a military career simply because of the charm of the uniform. Though our modern uniforms may not have the dash of threads worn by the armies of George III, there is still a precision and charm about military style. One only has to see the Household Cavalry trotting along The Mall to appreciate the appeal of regimental attire.

The exactness and formality of military clothing is a current vogue, and this season’s collections have often paid more than a little homage to classic forces tailoring. Double breasted long overcoats in stiff fabrics with mock-fur collars, crested buttons and gun-pockets have been popular styles for the winter season; some of the more exotic coats have a Napoleon-in-Russia grandeur that is most alluring.

Smart grey trousers, cropped shorter than usual, worn with boots, echo the uniform of the Royal Navy and long green scarves and belted great-coats are a dignified salute to the winter attire of the Tommy in the trenches in World War One.

To carry off the military look, you will need an air of stateliness, a slice of charisma and perhaps one of the items listed below. “Once more unto the breach dear friends…”

The military coat

Christopher Bailey’s Autumn/Winter 2007 collection for Burberry Prorsum is perhaps the finest example of fashion’s ode to military order. There were coats a plenty at the show and they ranged from the classic green loden belted coats to the grand Field Marshal creations with fur collars.

(From left to right; a classic RAF grey great coat with pistol pocket on the left breast; a steel blue double breasted ceremonial coat; a green loden single-breasted overcoat with leather belt; an Imperial Army style Eastern front mid-grey overcoat with mock fur collar; a green loden General’s coat with letter pocket and oversized fur lapels)

The tunic

Though general issue brightly coloured tunics were a thing of the past once the First World War had started, tunics remain as part of ceremonial uniform. Greens and greys were popular at the Prorsum show.

Worn with trousers and a plain white shirt and knitwear, a tunic can look dashing and contemporary; a fusion of old world military polish and modern day utilitarianism.

The boots

Smart black boots will give the wearer that seen-some-action toughness and will make the military effect more genuine. They do not have to be as tough or hard-wearing as issue boots of course, but they should be laced up; the stylish man should be considering boots of a lighter construction.

And finally…

This article was written in the spirit of homage and memorial; a dedication to those who have lost their lives in the service of their country. This is particularly pertinent at this time of year in Great Britain.

On Sunday the 11th November, the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland will hold a remembrance service, dedicated to military personnel who have died in service of their country. It is a time for reflection and respect, not a time for political sentiment of either persuasion. It is an occasion on which to honour and remember.

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Smart Trousers

If there is one thing, in the gentle naivety of my youth, which I never believed I would say it’s this: I am bored of wearing jeans. I still wear denim. Mostly slim fit and skinny denim; very fashion-forward stuff which keeps my outfits from looking too pompous. I have this belief that fashionable denim keeps even the most establishment of outfits as fresh as ever. But denim is not something that now, I wish to wear day in, day out. I will always buy it, for me it is indispensable, but I feel more excitement for other items now; grey flannel trousers, black skinny trousers, Prince of Wales check Oxford bags. There is so much variety in terms of smart-casual trousers, and this autumn and winter, there has never been a better time to fill your drawers with non-denim pants.

A couple of years ago, I was warmly ensconced with a filthy martini and some young woman in a bar who gave me some interesting, albeit affronting advice. She told me that the trousers I was wearing were ‘Smart but not sexy’. ‘Jeans are just so much sexier’ she said. I didn’t agree with her, and quite frankly, despite a little immediate soreness, I didn’t care. Trousers were certainly not en vogue, unless you happened to be wearing them as part of a suit, and some women I have encountered have judged male sartorial sex appeal on the popularity of the clothing. Individualism back then was not really all that appealing.

Two years and a Pete Doherty later and Individualism is the new rock and roll pastime. Mocking the nouveau Mods, shops such as TopMan were piled high with every kind of vintage knock-off and badge of eccentricity going; waistcoats, window checks, tie-pins, fedoras and flat-caps. It was, and still is, a period in which Period was in. Riding in on the wave of heritage came trousers; and they were not combats.

Here are a few suggestions for those who believe their lower-half is in need of a little tailoring.

Check trousers

Check trousers are a quirky item for the wardrobe. They are not simple, and fashion is temperamental about their charms. However, a classic check in brown or grey will look sophisticated and stylish in the years to come. For different looks, go for two types of trouser; perhaps a brown check pair of slim fit or skinny fit for more on-trend, daring looks and a pair of wide-legged grey check trousers for wearing with looser fitting cardigans and jumpers.

Nailhead, tooth and other patterns    

Smaller patterns also look fantastic and though they are very much daytime wear, are extremely versatile. A small houndstooth check or large nailhead pattern can look fantastic when worn with a velvet blazer. With this style of trouser, Oxford bag cuts with turn ups can look great, although I believe slimmer versions of houndstooth checks, for example, are more appropriate.

Grey flannel

Grey flannel is classically appealing and an evergreen style fabric and it’s ridiculously versatile; Audrey Hepburn framed a picture of Fred Astaire, whom she adored, in his favourite grey flannel. The trousers look fantastic with casual jumpers and smart, dark jackets and go wonderfully well with brown or black shoes. I would favour a narrower leg with grey flannel as they are more likely to be used for smarter occasions than more casual ones. Adding turn ups is a nod to tradition as this is how Astaire himself wore them.

Evening trousers

Not just for formal occasions, evening trousers are suitable for cocktails or dinner with friends; they’re certainly edging towards ‘dandy’ in style, but who cares? Wear them with or without satin or velvet trim, keep them slim and couple with smart patent loafers (as pictured) and perhaps a cashmere turtle neck.

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The Importance of Clothing Texture in an Outfit

As a person interested in art, I have always taken a keen interest in painting. When I was a young boy, painting was all around me; my grandfather, who lived near to us, was an artist who would constantly draw and paint things. I was taken to galleries and picture shows, was given pencils and brushes, in the hope that I would find inspiration in the things I saw.

Abstract art was something that did not appeal to me. As a child, I was interested in the figurative; an artists representation of something tangible. One particular thing I remember was the delicate way in which some artists represented clothing; the beautiful textures of lace and silk, the lush velvets and harsh sacking. They were often so accurately reproduced on canvas, so carefully combined. When I revisited the National Gallery recently to look at some of my favourite pieces, I realised that texture was one of the things I appreciated most in painting. Even a collection of simple cotton, linen and jute was a rich cocktail of weaves.

Clothing texture is something that is often overlooked when shopping for an outfit. This is a great pity as texture is as important in clothing as colour, and in fact, in tone on tone outfits, can be the defining quality. The satin or silk faced lapel and the cotton pique of an evening outfit are at opposite ends of the texture scale and yet their juxtaposition works very well indeed. It’s the same for woollen jackets trimmed with velvet and wearing woollen ties with fine cotton - opposites attract.

A lot of men’s clothing on the market is manufactured in similar texture materials. Merino wool jumpers, woollen jackets, woollen scarves; cotton shirts, cotton trousers and cotton socks. Materials of texture like silk, velvet and linen are marginalised and yet they can lift a quite ordinary outfit if used correctly.

We are fortunate in the world of today to have huge quantities of the world’s materials available to us. Cashmere, once a whispered luxury is now overflowing from outfitters such as GAP. Artificial materials, mocking the skins of endangered and protected species, are being improved and consequently expanding the texture base available to the 21st century fashion buyer.

Velvet 

Though a luxury material, the modern manufacture using polyester instead of fine cotton or silk, has meant that velvet has slipped down a few rungs on the luxury ladder; no longer is it seen as an exclusive fabric. However, men have been wearing velvet jackets for over 200 years. Velvet was worn by fashionable rakes such as Sir Lumley Skeffington, and its rare and pleasing appearance gave the wearer a touch of mythic grandeur. I own a velvet blazer from Zara and adore wearing it with cotton jumpers and silk scarves; the mix of textures is the main reason for my favour of this look. Pictured are two velvet creations from Gucci. Note how well the blue velvet jacket contrasts against the thick weave of the jumper underneath.

Silk

I love silk. The fantastic thing about this fabric is that there is more than one way it can be made, more than one texture effect to be had. Slub silk and shantung silk is the ‘rough’ stuff, and Favourbrook make some fantastic pocket squares in a slub fabric, great to contrast with a dark blue suit. Smoother silk is great for scarves and cravats (yes, cravats), and this always adds refinement to an outfit. Again the contrast can be stunning; a polka dot silk scarf with a cloth cap.

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Suit Styles: More than One Way to Wear a Suit

There is, it is said, more than one way to skin a cat. Not that I, or you, the collective readership should concern ourselves with this grisly practice, but you should note the pleasure of possibility. I had been told, and believed, there was only one way to wear a suit. Englishmen are notoriously arrogant when it comes to suits. Some men believe that because a certain Regency fop is responsible for the shape and style of the modern suit, that the English, as the inventors, are naturally the best.

This is, of course, bunkum. We are never necessarily the best at anything we create; in fact, we are often sub-standard and sometimes appalling. Our lack of success in sports such as soccer, rugby, tennis and cricket are examples of this. Our trains and railways are some of the worst in Europe and the Germans and Swedes produce vacuum cleaners that make ours seem little more than glorified drinking straws.

Though we often, for a freak moment get it incredibly right, in continued development for the next 100 years or so, we sometimes get it badly wrong. The baton has passed on many an occasion to someone else and a lot of sore Englishmen are left with the small pride of the accident of invention.

On occasion, however, we not only get it right at the crucial moment of introduction, we make sure that we keep doing it right, and upgrading where needed to maintain our status as world leaders. The suit is an example of this, and although the English style of suit attire is currently more popular than ever, the Anglo style is not the only one; the cat can be skinned many a way.

The Continental

The Continental suit is not a world away from the Englishman suit. It’s rather similar, but then it’s altogether quite a different thing; instead of a chicken roast, it’s chicken with Belgian fries. Usually a two or three button creation, but never double breasted, the Continental suit prefers espresso and croissants to toast and tea. The trousers are narrower and shorter than most suits which gives the Continental the badge of youth.

The materials and patterns are sharp and smart, but never fierce; no pin or chalk stripes. The Continental has been known to sport feint window-check patterns, but usually, cool Brussels blues and Geneva greys are the order of the day. Shirts are generally white and blue; the Continental is a busy man and has no time for choosing natty stripes or charming checks. Collars are either spread or tall, and ties are generally knitted creations in plain dark colours.

Knots are the size of a small pain au chocolat and the cuffs are always double. The Continental does adopt the Englishman affectation of wearing a pocket square, but he restricts himself to ironed white linen – leaving the Ros-bifs to their loud silk paisley. Famous advocates of the Continental include the late Gianni Agnelli, Bernard Arnault and Nicolas Sarkozy.

The Gangster

Though he might have replaced his violin case with a briefcase, the Gangster still wants to be noticed. Although a lot of gangsters dressed respectably, initially in a bid to avoid likely arrest, this was taken to an extreme and this look is parodied as the gangster style. Double breasted and three-piece suits are the bread and butter; the Gangster suit is made of some of the most glaring fabrics available to tailors. Loud, contrasting chalk and pinstripes in charcoal grey and midnight blue, the Gangster suit is often made with bright, contrasting linings. Trousers are wider, more similar to Oxford bags of the 1930s in shape.
Shirts ape the Englishman style, but collars are mostly downward pointing. Coloured shirts with white collars are favourites, as are thick stripes, luxurious whites and pinks. Ties are generally colour-matched and though they are often bright, are usually tasteful. No skinny tie for the Gangster; he wants as much silk as he can lay his hands on, and he makes sure people can see it. Tie-pins are a rare, but elegant, accessory and pocket squares are bright and beautiful. Gangster gunners include Ozwald Boateng, Jay Z and Damon Dash.

The Italian

The Italian is a close cousin of the Continental, but unlike his cousin, he respects the Englishman less. For you see, the Italian believes that he is the one true suit; beside him there is no other suit. He is certainly the most removed from the Englishman in terms of fit and style; he is much more relaxed and the trousers are looser and less tailored. The materials are different too. Whereas the Englishman uses thick worsted, the Italian uses fine wool and linen. The Englishman is breakfast at the Ritz and the Italian is brunch at Carluccio’s; he doesn’t need to prove anything.

Shirts are very rarely anything other than crisp white and the collar can be tall and contemporary like the Continental cousin, or soft and classic. The Italian likes to do ties differently too; thick silks in dark tones, tied in square-ish knots are never club-striped but can be dotted. The Italian is sometimes so modern, that he often goes without ties. To offset the shock of this look, he retains the effete pocket square, but he is united with his cousin, the Continental, in restricting himself to ironed white linen. Italian revolutionaries include George Clooney, Tom Ford and, naturally, Silvio Berlusconi.

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Choosing Eyeglasses for Your Face Shape

When I went shopping with a young lady recently for some new glasses, the massive range of designer frames on offer pushed me into a state of contemplation; I began to wonder what frames would suit my face, should the need for eyewear present itself. At present I have very good vision, although as both my mother and elder brother are now wearing prescription glasses, it wouldn’t surprise me if I needed vision assistance in the years to come. The difficulties I faced in choosing hypothetical eyewear made me appreciate the considerable troubles that a person requiring glasses faces.

Some people may reject spectacles altogether and plump for contact lenses. Glasses, to some people, look geeky and unattractive, and no amount of modernisation or flashing of designer credentials will change their opinion. Admittedly, if you need vision assistance all hours of the day, then contacts are probably preferable. However, they will be very fiddly for those that require assistance in relation to specific problems such as reading or viewing from a great distance; the ‘in/out’ debacle is likely to infuriate the most patient of people.

Therefore, frames are just unavoidable, and as such, some people choose to attempt to hide this fact by wearing rimless glasses or very thin-framed spectacles. Unfortunately, it never really works; any facial scaffolding will show, and the extravagant cost of these glasses is hardly justified by the mixed results. Speaking as a person who is likely to be a future spectacle man, I would prefer to embrace my need for glasses; elegant and stylish frames can be found for the modish man and whatever your face-shape, there will be plenty of choice.

Round face

If you are a man with a smooth, round face then some spectacles with a bold rectangular frame should suit you. Keep the lenses larger, as on your particular face, shallow lenses can make your eyes look smaller.

Square jaw

If you have a round face with a square jaw, wearing square glasses might make your face look a little hard. It’s better to wear oval glasses to soften your jutting chin. Be careful not to go for frames that are too narrow as these will look childish.

Flat chin, tall head

If you have a tall head with a flat chin, you would look best in thin, wide rectangular frames. The wide glasses balance your face well.

Heart shaped face

If you have this shape of face then you will look fantastic in oval glasses. The softer frames will balance the sharpness of your features.

Oval head

If you have an oval head, with a tall forehead and long chin, it’s best to try and balance your look by wearing large rounded-square spectacles. Harsh angles would look too hard against your face shape, so rounded corners are perfect for your features.

Style of glasses

There are literally hundreds of styles of frames available. It’s important to pay attention to your particular combination of features; how large and prominent your eyes, nose and mouth are will influence how frames will suit you. Also, remember to refrain from falling in love with particular frame styles that may not suit you – they can sometimes only look fabulous when lying on your desk. It’s also important to choose glasses consistent with your personality and clothing style – retro frames will suit the man who exudes a vintage style, but they are unlikely to look well on a man who is ultra modern.

The style of glasses that suited me (pictured) in every sense are rather retro, if a little comic, but I feel they represent my personality and personal style very well.

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