What Gloves to Wear

I have a tendency to lose gloves. I cannot, no matter how I devote my best efforts, keep them more than a year. My habit of misplacement has led me to rifle through bargain bins at H&M; I cannot countenance spending significant cash on something I will likely leave somewhere, or allow to fall from my pocket.

Many people feel this way about sunglasses. I can empathise with them, but I think my record with sunglasses improved somewhat when I took the plunge and spent over £100 on a pair. Now I am accustomed to expensive frames, I am no longer anxious and have ceased to create cynical fictions in my mind of the wretched things being stolen. They dominate my thoughts far less because of the norm of having them. I am determined to apply this proven theory to gloves, for I have seen some handsome and graceful gloves that have caused me to question my stoic reliance on cheap elasticised black cotton.

Having said that, elasticised black cotton gloves, especially the Thinsulate variety, are extremely useful; they’re versatile, very warm and look well on a fine hand. For more casual wear, with weekend jeans, a corduroy jacket and a v-neck jumper, they are perfectly adequate. However, if you want to give your winter outfit that extra polish, then a pair (or perhaps two pairs, or three?) of finely made gloves are just the ticket. Aside from being very practical in preparation for the elements, gloves add a genteel finesse to an ensemble.

Leather ‘gents’ gloves

One of the most popular choices for gentlemen is the lined, or unlined, leather ‘gents’ glove. For comfort and luxury, some men will choose a cashmere or fur lining. This is certainly recommended for the gentleman who wishes to treat his fortunate fingers, but beware that linings can bulk a glove somewhat; hands that appear large are unbecoming.

Dents make some of the finest leather ‘gents’ gloves. Using soft nappa leather, deerskin and lambskin, their gloves are well-made and reasonably priced for their fine quality.

Leather ‘driving’ gloves

Due to the preponderance of roofed cars and the arrival of power steering, driving gloves are rarely used for their intended purpose. However, that is by no means a reason to condemn them to the scrap heap; driving gloves are youthful and natty, and give the wearer a cavalier élan and a romantic allusion to the daredevil racing drivers of the roaring twenties.

Dents also make some fantastic driving gloves too. The colour range is a little limited and you can find more daring creations in high-fashion retailers, but they are of a good quality and they are, once more, very reasonably priced.

The ‘gauntlet’

Although it may be tempting to call these gloves archaic, they are extremely comfortable and useful for those who ride motorcycles and vintage open top cars. My mother also finds them tremendously practical when picking holly in the woods for the festive wreath. They are perhaps a little large for wearing with the double-breasted suit and scarf, but they have many other uses.

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Ski Apparel: What to Wear On and Off the Slopes

I miss the mountain air. There is something about it that is so crisp and energising; it’s no wonder the cast of The Sound of Music skipped through the Austrian hills so briskly, shrilling about pedagogical techniques of sight-singing and ‘raindrops on roses’. An Alpine atmosphere is a feel good tonic if ever there was one.

My rose-tinted ruminations of areas of altitude do not stop at the quality of oxygen either; I miss winter sports bitterly. It has been a good long while since I last skied. I must have slipped down a few notches by now – more red and blue than black these days. And yet, despite my trepidation concerning my downhill technique, I can’t wait to be back on the slopes again.

And it’s not just about the ruination of knees through parallel turns that tempts me. The après-ski, the exhilarating lifestyle, the cosy lodge fires, the warm punch and hot Jacuzzis catalyse my resolution to return to the winter sporting world with relish.

I am worried though. The skiing does not concern me; moguls or no moguls, I shall maintain. It’s the complete lack of appropriate skiwear. Concerned as I am not to shame my own skiing further with graceless choices of apparel, let me share with you the light research I have completed into concocting modish slope attire.

On slope

There is no schussing away from it: on-slope gear needs to be practical. You can’t be a frosty fop but, damn it all, you can give your style conscience a fighting chance. A lot of clothing on offer for the winter sports market is heavily sport-focused. What I mean by this ugly hyphenated phrase is that large writing, meaningless numbers and frustratingly ineffectual flashing lines and shapes prevail. A Savile Row tailor would shiver at the frighteningly cheap looking clothing that, due to the patented technology involved, can cost over $1000 to buy.

If you’re going to invest in ski-wear, it’s best to invest in styles and materials that are going to last. Cheap jackets are not only a poor investment, but they also tend to make the wearer look like an out-of-work second division soccer coach.

Unfortunately, unlike other areas of fashion, very affordable and stylish snow-wear is like the Abominable Snowman; people claim to have seen it, but when they return to prove their sighting, the evidence has vanished.

For jackets and pants in skiing and snowboarding lines, Ralph Lauren’s RLX range combines sleek style with the best in clothing technology.

Off slope

Après-ski clothing type depends on where you are staying. Larger and well established resorts often have heated pavements, largely, it seems, in order that frail maidens of the mountains can teeter along Main Street in Manolos. However, despite this, there are plenty of remote resorts and snowy streets that call for practicality. Gucci, Giorgio Armani, DSquared and Ralph Lauren are examples of sturdy and elegant options for times off-slope.

The key is to keep the footwear practical, and retro-looking, and also to add a little colour or exoticism to the ensemble to avoid it looking mercilessly functional; striped scarves, traditional patterns, fur and leather add sufficient spice to keep the cold at bay.

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Military Style Appeal

Men in uniform: a classic image that has melted the heart of many a housewife. From the brass buttons and epaulettes to the squeaking boots and shining sword; the romantic image of a soldier is forever captivating. The Beau, it is said, pursued a military career simply because of the charm of the uniform. Though our modern uniforms may not have the dash of threads worn by the armies of George III, there is still a precision and charm about military style. One only has to see the Household Cavalry trotting along The Mall to appreciate the appeal of regimental attire.

The exactness and formality of military clothing is a current vogue, and this season’s collections have often paid more than a little homage to classic forces tailoring. Double breasted long overcoats in stiff fabrics with mock-fur collars, crested buttons and gun-pockets have been popular styles for the winter season; some of the more exotic coats have a Napoleon-in-Russia grandeur that is most alluring.

Smart grey trousers, cropped shorter than usual, worn with boots, echo the uniform of the Royal Navy and long green scarves and belted great-coats are a dignified salute to the winter attire of the Tommy in the trenches in World War One.

To carry off the military look, you will need an air of stateliness, a slice of charisma and perhaps one of the items listed below. “Once more unto the breach dear friends…”

The military coat

Christopher Bailey’s Autumn/Winter 2007 collection for Burberry Prorsum is perhaps the finest example of fashion’s ode to military order. There were coats a plenty at the show and they ranged from the classic green loden belted coats to the grand Field Marshal creations with fur collars.

(From left to right; a classic RAF grey great coat with pistol pocket on the left breast; a steel blue double breasted ceremonial coat; a green loden single-breasted overcoat with leather belt; an Imperial Army style Eastern front mid-grey overcoat with mock fur collar; a green loden General’s coat with letter pocket and oversized fur lapels)

The tunic

Though general issue brightly coloured tunics were a thing of the past once the First World War had started, tunics remain as part of ceremonial uniform. Greens and greys were popular at the Prorsum show.

Worn with trousers and a plain white shirt and knitwear, a tunic can look dashing and contemporary; a fusion of old world military polish and modern day utilitarianism.

The boots

Smart black boots will give the wearer that seen-some-action toughness and will make the military effect more genuine. They do not have to be as tough or hard-wearing as issue boots of course, but they should be laced up; the stylish man should be considering boots of a lighter construction.

And finally…

This article was written in the spirit of homage and memorial; a dedication to those who have lost their lives in the service of their country. This is particularly pertinent at this time of year in Great Britain.

On Sunday the 11th November, the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland will hold a remembrance service, dedicated to military personnel who have died in service of their country. It is a time for reflection and respect, not a time for political sentiment of either persuasion. It is an occasion on which to honour and remember.

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Smart Trousers

If there is one thing, in the gentle naivety of my youth, which I never believed I would say it’s this: I am bored of wearing jeans. I still wear denim. Mostly slim fit and skinny denim; very fashion-forward stuff which keeps my outfits from looking too pompous. I have this belief that fashionable denim keeps even the most establishment of outfits as fresh as ever. But denim is not something that now, I wish to wear day in, day out. I will always buy it, for me it is indispensable, but I feel more excitement for other items now; grey flannel trousers, black skinny trousers, Prince of Wales check Oxford bags. There is so much variety in terms of smart-casual trousers, and this autumn and winter, there has never been a better time to fill your drawers with non-denim pants.

A couple of years ago, I was warmly ensconced with a filthy martini and some young woman in a bar who gave me some interesting, albeit affronting advice. She told me that the trousers I was wearing were ‘Smart but not sexy’. ‘Jeans are just so much sexier’ she said. I didn’t agree with her, and quite frankly, despite a little immediate soreness, I didn’t care. Trousers were certainly not en vogue, unless you happened to be wearing them as part of a suit, and some women I have encountered have judged male sartorial sex appeal on the popularity of the clothing. Individualism back then was not really all that appealing.

Two years and a Pete Doherty later and Individualism is the new rock and roll pastime. Mocking the nouveau Mods, shops such as TopMan were piled high with every kind of vintage knock-off and badge of eccentricity going; waistcoats, window checks, tie-pins, fedoras and flat-caps. It was, and still is, a period in which Period was in. Riding in on the wave of heritage came trousers; and they were not combats.

Here are a few suggestions for those who believe their lower-half is in need of a little tailoring.

Check trousers

Check trousers are a quirky item for the wardrobe. They are not simple, and fashion is temperamental about their charms. However, a classic check in brown or grey will look sophisticated and stylish in the years to come. For different looks, go for two types of trouser; perhaps a brown check pair of slim fit or skinny fit for more on-trend, daring looks and a pair of wide-legged grey check trousers for wearing with looser fitting cardigans and jumpers.

Nailhead, tooth and other patterns    

Smaller patterns also look fantastic and though they are very much daytime wear, are extremely versatile. A small houndstooth check or large nailhead pattern can look fantastic when worn with a velvet blazer. With this style of trouser, Oxford bag cuts with turn ups can look great, although I believe slimmer versions of houndstooth checks, for example, are more appropriate.

Grey flannel

Grey flannel is classically appealing and an evergreen style fabric and it’s ridiculously versatile; Audrey Hepburn framed a picture of Fred Astaire, whom she adored, in his favourite grey flannel. The trousers look fantastic with casual jumpers and smart, dark jackets and go wonderfully well with brown or black shoes. I would favour a narrower leg with grey flannel as they are more likely to be used for smarter occasions than more casual ones. Adding turn ups is a nod to tradition as this is how Astaire himself wore them.

Evening trousers

Not just for formal occasions, evening trousers are suitable for cocktails or dinner with friends; they’re certainly edging towards ‘dandy’ in style, but who cares? Wear them with or without satin or velvet trim, keep them slim and couple with smart patent loafers (as pictured) and perhaps a cashmere turtle neck.

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The Importance of Clothing Texture in an Outfit

As a person interested in art, I have always taken a keen interest in painting. When I was a young boy, painting was all around me; my grandfather, who lived near to us, was an artist who would constantly draw and paint things. I was taken to galleries and picture shows, was given pencils and brushes, in the hope that I would find inspiration in the things I saw.

Abstract art was something that did not appeal to me. As a child, I was interested in the figurative; an artists representation of something tangible. One particular thing I remember was the delicate way in which some artists represented clothing; the beautiful textures of lace and silk, the lush velvets and harsh sacking. They were often so accurately reproduced on canvas, so carefully combined. When I revisited the National Gallery recently to look at some of my favourite pieces, I realised that texture was one of the things I appreciated most in painting. Even a collection of simple cotton, linen and jute was a rich cocktail of weaves.

Clothing texture is something that is often overlooked when shopping for an outfit. This is a great pity as texture is as important in clothing as colour, and in fact, in tone on tone outfits, can be the defining quality. The satin or silk faced lapel and the cotton pique of an evening outfit are at opposite ends of the texture scale and yet their juxtaposition works very well indeed. It’s the same for woollen jackets trimmed with velvet and wearing woollen ties with fine cotton - opposites attract.

A lot of men’s clothing on the market is manufactured in similar texture materials. Merino wool jumpers, woollen jackets, woollen scarves; cotton shirts, cotton trousers and cotton socks. Materials of texture like silk, velvet and linen are marginalised and yet they can lift a quite ordinary outfit if used correctly.

We are fortunate in the world of today to have huge quantities of the world’s materials available to us. Cashmere, once a whispered luxury is now overflowing from outfitters such as GAP. Artificial materials, mocking the skins of endangered and protected species, are being improved and consequently expanding the texture base available to the 21st century fashion buyer.

Velvet 

Though a luxury material, the modern manufacture using polyester instead of fine cotton or silk, has meant that velvet has slipped down a few rungs on the luxury ladder; no longer is it seen as an exclusive fabric. However, men have been wearing velvet jackets for over 200 years. Velvet was worn by fashionable rakes such as Sir Lumley Skeffington, and its rare and pleasing appearance gave the wearer a touch of mythic grandeur. I own a velvet blazer from Zara and adore wearing it with cotton jumpers and silk scarves; the mix of textures is the main reason for my favour of this look. Pictured are two velvet creations from Gucci. Note how well the blue velvet jacket contrasts against the thick weave of the jumper underneath.

Silk

I love silk. The fantastic thing about this fabric is that there is more than one way it can be made, more than one texture effect to be had. Slub silk and shantung silk is the ‘rough’ stuff, and Favourbrook make some fantastic pocket squares in a slub fabric, great to contrast with a dark blue suit. Smoother silk is great for scarves and cravats (yes, cravats), and this always adds refinement to an outfit. Again the contrast can be stunning; a polka dot silk scarf with a cloth cap.

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