Suit Styles: More than One Way to Wear a Suit

There is, it is said, more than one way to skin a cat. Not that I, or you, the collective readership should concern ourselves with this grisly practice, but you should note the pleasure of possibility. I had been told, and believed, there was only one way to wear a suit. Englishmen are notoriously arrogant when it comes to suits. Some men believe that because a certain Regency fop is responsible for the shape and style of the modern suit, that the English, as the inventors, are naturally the best.

This is, of course, bunkum. We are never necessarily the best at anything we create; in fact, we are often sub-standard and sometimes appalling. Our lack of success in sports such as soccer, rugby, tennis and cricket are examples of this. Our trains and railways are some of the worst in Europe and the Germans and Swedes produce vacuum cleaners that make ours seem little more than glorified drinking straws.

Though we often, for a freak moment get it incredibly right, in continued development for the next 100 years or so, we sometimes get it badly wrong. The baton has passed on many an occasion to someone else and a lot of sore Englishmen are left with the small pride of the accident of invention.

On occasion, however, we not only get it right at the crucial moment of introduction, we make sure that we keep doing it right, and upgrading where needed to maintain our status as world leaders. The suit is an example of this, and although the English style of suit attire is currently more popular than ever, the Anglo style is not the only one; the cat can be skinned many a way.

The Continental

The Continental suit is not a world away from the Englishman suit. It’s rather similar, but then it’s altogether quite a different thing; instead of a chicken roast, it’s chicken with Belgian fries. Usually a two or three button creation, but never double breasted, the Continental suit prefers espresso and croissants to toast and tea. The trousers are narrower and shorter than most suits which gives the Continental the badge of youth.

The materials and patterns are sharp and smart, but never fierce; no pin or chalk stripes. The Continental has been known to sport feint window-check patterns, but usually, cool Brussels blues and Geneva greys are the order of the day. Shirts are generally white and blue; the Continental is a busy man and has no time for choosing natty stripes or charming checks. Collars are either spread or tall, and ties are generally knitted creations in plain dark colours.

Knots are the size of a small pain au chocolat and the cuffs are always double. The Continental does adopt the Englishman affectation of wearing a pocket square, but he restricts himself to ironed white linen – leaving the Ros-bifs to their loud silk paisley. Famous advocates of the Continental include the late Gianni Agnelli, Bernard Arnault and Nicolas Sarkozy.

The Gangster

Though he might have replaced his violin case with a briefcase, the Gangster still wants to be noticed. Although a lot of gangsters dressed respectably, initially in a bid to avoid likely arrest, this was taken to an extreme and this look is parodied as the gangster style. Double breasted and three-piece suits are the bread and butter; the Gangster suit is made of some of the most glaring fabrics available to tailors. Loud, contrasting chalk and pinstripes in charcoal grey and midnight blue, the Gangster suit is often made with bright, contrasting linings. Trousers are wider, more similar to Oxford bags of the 1930s in shape.
Shirts ape the Englishman style, but collars are mostly downward pointing. Coloured shirts with white collars are favourites, as are thick stripes, luxurious whites and pinks. Ties are generally colour-matched and though they are often bright, are usually tasteful. No skinny tie for the Gangster; he wants as much silk as he can lay his hands on, and he makes sure people can see it. Tie-pins are a rare, but elegant, accessory and pocket squares are bright and beautiful. Gangster gunners include Ozwald Boateng, Jay Z and Damon Dash.

The Italian

The Italian is a close cousin of the Continental, but unlike his cousin, he respects the Englishman less. For you see, the Italian believes that he is the one true suit; beside him there is no other suit. He is certainly the most removed from the Englishman in terms of fit and style; he is much more relaxed and the trousers are looser and less tailored. The materials are different too. Whereas the Englishman uses thick worsted, the Italian uses fine wool and linen. The Englishman is breakfast at the Ritz and the Italian is brunch at Carluccio’s; he doesn’t need to prove anything.

Shirts are very rarely anything other than crisp white and the collar can be tall and contemporary like the Continental cousin, or soft and classic. The Italian likes to do ties differently too; thick silks in dark tones, tied in square-ish knots are never club-striped but can be dotted. The Italian is sometimes so modern, that he often goes without ties. To offset the shock of this look, he retains the effete pocket square, but he is united with his cousin, the Continental, in restricting himself to ironed white linen. Italian revolutionaries include George Clooney, Tom Ford and, naturally, Silvio Berlusconi.

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Choosing Eyeglasses for Your Face Shape

When I went shopping with a young lady recently for some new glasses, the massive range of designer frames on offer pushed me into a state of contemplation; I began to wonder what frames would suit my face, should the need for eyewear present itself. At present I have very good vision, although as both my mother and elder brother are now wearing prescription glasses, it wouldn’t surprise me if I needed vision assistance in the years to come. The difficulties I faced in choosing hypothetical eyewear made me appreciate the considerable troubles that a person requiring glasses faces.

Some people may reject spectacles altogether and plump for contact lenses. Glasses, to some people, look geeky and unattractive, and no amount of modernisation or flashing of designer credentials will change their opinion. Admittedly, if you need vision assistance all hours of the day, then contacts are probably preferable. However, they will be very fiddly for those that require assistance in relation to specific problems such as reading or viewing from a great distance; the ‘in/out’ debacle is likely to infuriate the most patient of people.

Therefore, frames are just unavoidable, and as such, some people choose to attempt to hide this fact by wearing rimless glasses or very thin-framed spectacles. Unfortunately, it never really works; any facial scaffolding will show, and the extravagant cost of these glasses is hardly justified by the mixed results. Speaking as a person who is likely to be a future spectacle man, I would prefer to embrace my need for glasses; elegant and stylish frames can be found for the modish man and whatever your face-shape, there will be plenty of choice.

Round face

If you are a man with a smooth, round face then some spectacles with a bold rectangular frame should suit you. Keep the lenses larger, as on your particular face, shallow lenses can make your eyes look smaller.

Square jaw

If you have a round face with a square jaw, wearing square glasses might make your face look a little hard. It’s better to wear oval glasses to soften your jutting chin. Be careful not to go for frames that are too narrow as these will look childish.

Flat chin, tall head

If you have a tall head with a flat chin, you would look best in thin, wide rectangular frames. The wide glasses balance your face well.

Heart shaped face

If you have this shape of face then you will look fantastic in oval glasses. The softer frames will balance the sharpness of your features.

Oval head

If you have an oval head, with a tall forehead and long chin, it’s best to try and balance your look by wearing large rounded-square spectacles. Harsh angles would look too hard against your face shape, so rounded corners are perfect for your features.

Style of glasses

There are literally hundreds of styles of frames available. It’s important to pay attention to your particular combination of features; how large and prominent your eyes, nose and mouth are will influence how frames will suit you. Also, remember to refrain from falling in love with particular frame styles that may not suit you – they can sometimes only look fabulous when lying on your desk. It’s also important to choose glasses consistent with your personality and clothing style – retro frames will suit the man who exudes a vintage style, but they are unlikely to look well on a man who is ultra modern.

The style of glasses that suited me (pictured) in every sense are rather retro, if a little comic, but I feel they represent my personality and personal style very well.

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Americana Look: The Urban Cowboy Trend

It is rare that I applaud fashion. Style is far more important to me than trend, and it is to that Pantheon of style icons that I pay homage. As Oscar Wilde once said,“fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.” It is that unappealing temporary charm that puts me off fashion; that risk of buying something which will be worthless in half a year. I am never a slave to fashion.

However, fashion has its moments. They are rare and fleeting, but they are there. Once in a while it learns to provide practical style which will last from season to season, year to year. One particular autumn and winter trend has been the Americana look; checks and plaids, sport shirts, corduroy and cosy thick weave scarves. “Nothing” you may cry, “that hasn’t been in GAP for the last ten years!” Perhaps you are right. Perhaps there is nothing that revolutionary about the look, but does there need to be? It’s just something that fits so very well with the cold season. Cosy materials, patterns echoing a bright practicality, and accessories galore make the look thoroughly appropriate for the coming months.

Plaid and denim

One of the most comforting things about this look is that you can relax in the clothing without fear. It is a very casual look and the less contrived and the more ‘lived-in’ the outcome the better. Denim does not have to be skinny, dark and straight. In fact, the best denim to wear with this urban cowboy uniform is washed, old looking denim. The dark and shiny Dior Homme jeans are not appropriate – the plaid and denim man has to look like he cares less about the fineness of threads and more about unswept leaves on the driveway.

Boots and coats

Plaid shirts and college-style blazers and cord jackets are very charming in a New England way. However, the key to the outback dandy’s image is the lack of formality. Lapels begone! Big chunky coats are a central part of this look. Hacking jackets and duffel coats offset the hick charm of plaid and check and keep the palette under control; their versatility allows for multiple layering.

Footwear should be carefully considered also. The urban cowboy has no need for Wellington boots, but practical shoes and boots with a Commando sole do work well and are very comfortable for cold winter days. They also help to promote the casual weekender appeal of the look.

Scarves and hats

Scarves for this look are big and chunky. No skinny scarves or delicate silk here. A man needs a scarf that looks almost childlike in its naivety. Huge weave, snake-like creations and tartan are the key trends for scarves. If wearing tartan, avoid wearing with too many checked or plaid items – overkill would be a shame.

Hats are important for the urban cowboy. He likes to be outside, it reminds him of being at home on the range, and he needs some practical headgear to keep his ears warm. Beanies, woodsman caps and driving hats are the order of the day. Nothing too elaborate, just a little nod to design by incorporating a houndstooth or check pattern.

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Choosing and Wearing Daytime Bow Tie

If there was ever a misunderstood item of male clothing, then the bow-tie is that item. Perceived as an accessory appropriate for mockery, relegated from everyday use to infrequent evening wear, the bow-tie is the symbol of a lost generation.

So many people are incapable of tying their own bow tie. A fact which, in itself, shouts of a neglect for a style of necktie which has been ridiculed as much as it has been celebrated; people are as likely to associate the bow-tie with Jerry Lewis as Winston Churchill, and this unhappy result has had a marked effect on the pride of a wearer. Once deemed to be the height of artisan sophistication, if you wear a bow-tie on any occasion other than a black-tie event, ordinary people are likely to expect you to pull a bunch of flowers from your sleeve.

I used to be afraid of the bow-tie. I have always loved neckties, but I found the everyday bow-tie to be a step too far in the nostalgia direction; something about their declining status kept me away from even considering wearing one. Now, I cannot wait to find the perfect bow.

Below I have listed some rules and guidelines about choosing and wearing the daytime bow-tie.

Self-tie

The first rule is that the bow tie you select should be one you tie yourself. No self-respecting man should buy a ready-made bow tie; they are only for children and have the intractable flaw of being too perfect. A real bow-tie is imperfect. Though the Beau spent hours trying to tie his neckwear, discarding the ‘failures’, the key with bow ties is that they should be different every time, thus making the self-tie bow tie one of the most unique accessories in a man’s wardrobe. Sometimes a little fat, sometimes a little too tight, however they are made, they are usually gloriously asymmetric in appearance. This asymmetry has the canny effect of adding an air of old world civility to the wearer. Don’t crave for symmetrical perfection because that was never the point in wearing one in the first place; when you see Churchill’s bow it is loose and characterful, not a stiff cut-out.

Pattern

The other rule with wearing a day-time bow tie is that it must be patterned. Non-patterned bow ties look like black-tie substitutes, so always shop for dots, stripes or paisley. Colours should be sober and darker in tone; forest green rather than apple green and claret rather than blood red. The reason for this is to turn the bow-tie into something which is not screaming for attention, but rather standing, silently still, ignoring the prying eyes and castigating remarks – rather like an Irish Guard on duty outside St James’ Palace. The idea of this simple revolution is to remove the comical bow-tie from the limelight of the Big Top and to forge a new association with the stylish gentlemen of the day.

I have found it rather tricky purchasing good quality silk bow ties. Nearly every shop assistant I have encountered has pointed me to the evening dress section when I have specifically asked for day-dress dickies. John Lewis had a small selection of paisley bow ties, reasonably priced at $30. However, one of the best retailers of preppy nostalgia clothing in the world, Ralph Lauren, has a wonderful selection in his stores.

When to wear it

Bow-ties look youthful when worn properly and they can brighten up almost any outfit. Wear a bow tie with a sharp, slim-fit suit for an on-trend cut with an eccentric dash. Or wear a bow tie with a casual collar and a cable crew neck for a ‘relaxed academic’ look. Bow-ties can also prep-up plain spring outfits of short sleeved shirts, tailored shorts and blazers. The key is to avoid overdoing a look with a bow tie; keep pocket squares to a visual minimum and try not to colour match too much.

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How Should Men of Style Dress for Halloween

Halloween is fast approaching and invitations to soirees are being pushed through many a door. It’s a festival that gives rise to an excuse for parties and celebrations, and many choose to enjoy the occasion by dressing up. Halloween themed parties concentrate on the spooky side of the festival; the references to literature and cinematic horror, the folklore and mysticism. I have attended few Halloween functions in recent years, but it made me wonder recently, how I would dress should I be invited to a costume party on the 31st of this month.

It is a party, and yes, dressing up is fun and is not meant to be taken too seriously. I would like to share with you why I believe despite the casual nature of such occasions, why and how I would devote time and thought to my appearance.

Choosing a character

Naturally, one of the main factors in your appearance is in deciding who you will attempt to impersonate. For the man interested in style, there will be restrictions. Firstly, as a style fan, I would not consider characters such as Frankenstein’s monster or the mummy of Imhotep. There is something lacking in their bearing and their garb for stylish men to take interest; something about the bolt and the bandages just does not seem to sit well with the well-dressed man.

Dracula is altogether a different proposition; the elegant Romanian aristocrat, wearing black from head to foot, is a wonderful, if not shamefully predictable choice, for the modish man of the metropolis. A truly stylish choice could be the Headless Horseman from Washington Irving’s The Legend of Sleepy Hollow. It would be extremely difficult to walk with a covered head, but his costume would have been a late 18th century military one; very dashing.

A contemporary character to impersonate for the man of style might be Gomez Addams from the Addams Family. The dapper gentleman from the comedy series was frequently seen wearing a cravat, a velvet smoking jacket, or perhaps a natty striped suit, and had his dark hair slicked back. There was a feint air of the Count about him, but he was less of an animal than Dracula, and due to the comedic milieu of the Addams family, is probably easier to impersonate with a sardonic smile.

Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde is perhaps a challenge because of the difficulty of presenting the duality. However, wearing a top-hat, an Inverness cape and a white shirt, white bow tie and white silk scarf, with some test tubes in the top pocket, some bright green make-up around the mouth to represent spillages of the potion, and perhaps some novelty red contact lenses may give your distinguished doctor the hint of a beast within.

Costume and make-up

A man of style should be interested in presenting the best possible version of his character; a little red make-up around the mouth and a black suit will not do. Study photographs of cinematic representations of the characters. Dracula never wore simple black tie. If any jacket is worn it has to be a long jacket. If you can manage it a tail-coat would be perfect. If not, wearing a cape or a black coat over one’s shoulders is the best thing.

Make special purchases if you wish, but it’s good to try and use as many things from your own wardrobe as possible. A scarf could double as a sash that could be worn from shoulder to hip, and a frilly-cuff shirt is unnecessary if you have a shirt that requires cuff-links – just leave them undone and voila, you have an 18th century look. The more period your look, the more genuine it seems and so adding a few vintage accessories, such as a lapel-pin, or an old medal will improve the outfit.

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