How Not to Relaunch a Product: Belstaff Jacket

Belstaff famously makes motorcycle jackets. The brand has been reinvigorated in the past few years. This is good for awareness, but not necessarily good for integrity.

Steve McQueen famously stayed home one night rather than go out with his movie-star girlfriend in order to wax his Belstaff. This is not a euphemism. He was such a fan of the motorcycle jacket, traditionally constructed from waxed cotton, that he wore the Trialmaster series throughout his life, including at the Enduro off-road motorbike race in Europe, where he represented the US.

I knew part of this from reading of McQueen’s passion for the jacket in a magazine. I was also aware of seeing people wearing the occasional beaten up Belstaff jacket, its Union Jack proudly displayed under a front pocket. But I hadn’t really been aware of where these jackets were bought or what was so good about them.

Advertising changed that. More money pumped into marketing meant adverts in all the usual magazines, an upgrade of the London store on Conduit Street and the accompanying editorial that employing a good PR agency gets you.

So last month, with a little money to spare and searching for inspiration, I visited the Conduit Street store. It was slick – minimalist white decoration, industrial-chic storage at the back, smiling employees. But it was empty, and the staff showed an alarming ignorance of their product.

The men’s department is downstairs, which seems odd, given that I have yet to see a woman wearing a Belstaff jacket and nearly all the advertising features men. I’m aware that brands often put the women’s section on the ground floor, as they tend to be less prepared to walk flights and tend to spend more. But here it’s odd given the clientele.

More disturbing were the sales staff. Looking at two jackets, the Redford and the Belford, I asked one (female) member of staff what the difference was between the two. All I could see was one extra pocket on the Redford, for £50 more. When I asked, she picked up the jacket and had a look at it. This is never a good sign. Then she told me, that, as far as she could work out, the difference was one extra pocket and £50.

This ignorance, the distinct lack of stock, the refusal to do any refunds and the fact that so much money had obviously been spent on marketing (which is warning to anyone looking to get value for money – oh, and they obviously paid Ewan McGregor to wear one while he rode around Africa, which is not money well spent) did not stop me buying one – the Belford.

It didn’t stop me because the quality of the jacket was fantastic. From the suede lining that almost made you want to wear nothing underneath, to the durable and high quality fastenings; from the instructions on how to look after it over decades, to the odd-school paisley sleeve lining; it was impossible to resist.

The product is faultless and will find a great audience, if only they learnt a little more about pitching this to the right market with the right people. This is an old-fashioned, high quality British product. It should be sold to older, slightly style-conscious men who will appreciate it. And it should be sold by people who know what they’re selling.

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Commuter & Dad Bag Test: Crumpler – Funny Name, Good Bag

Crumpler Complete Seed ($105.00) & Part and Parcel ($160.00) / www.crumplerbags.com

BACKGROUND
Ever heard of Crumpler? Maybe not, but I suspect that most readers might recognize that little crazy-haired logo on the company’s bags. You might not remember exactly where you saw him or on what, but chances are it will ring familiar.

Crumpler is one of those brands; sort of everywhere but not necessarily front and center. The Australian company takes its bag making very seriously, but certainly not itself. The wacky product names that to an Australian contain a bit of tongue-in-cheek humor are all but lost on confused Americans. The website is a riot of cartoons, icons and stuffed animals. You have to hunt a bit for the actual products and then figure out what picture connects to which bag category.

Definitely a quirky company; they even demonstrate their bags’ various capacities by stacking six packs of beer inside – what else could you want?

Still, it’s a bag company and the bags definitely take center stage. Crumpler’s messenger, computer and photography bags are marvels of design and construction, and that’s what counts. Founded Down Under by former bike messengers, comfort and durability blend creatively with innovative, almost organic, designs.

The result is a distinctive personality and DNA that carries through to each of their designs. Once you know Crumpler, you can spot their bags a mile away.

THE RESULTS
I contacted Crumpler USA to find out if they could spare a bag for the Commuter and Dad Bag Test. They said, “Sure, we’d be chuffed” and proceeded to send me two; a messenger bag in gun metal grey and a laptop bag in a two-toned blue.

I was not really looking to test a laptop bag per se. But when speaking with them, I had mentioned rather specifically that since I was trying to find that elusive one-bag-that-can-do-it-all, carrying a laptop was one something that factored in.

So, along with the Complete Seed messenger bag, Crumpler sent along its Part and Parcel laptop bag.

Both are some of the best made messenger style bags I’ve ever seen. The water resistant 1000D nylon shell and 420D nylon interior are thick and sturdy. The Velcro closures are large and stay closed, even with full loads. Both have additional adjustable quick-release straps as well.

Crumpler shoulder straps are second to none; they are strong, flexible and thick enough to have an almost rounded edge. The shoulder pad, which is included (there’s an idea), is large and molds comfortably to your shoulder. The bags also have a standard “third leg” stability strap that provides additional security across your chest for full loads.

Part and Parcel

The first thing that strikes you when gazing upon the P&P for the first time is that it looks large; but that’s a bit of a false impression. Though boxy looking, it is not a deep bag, so when you actually sling it over your shoulder it doesn’t feel too large or heavy, even when fully loaded.

The P&P is very much a messenger bag at heart; it has no carrying handle and no outside pockets once the large flap is closed. When open however, a cacophony of interior pockets is revealed. And though usually a plus, in this case I could have done with fewer.

The bag is divided into two main areas; the rear section which includes the computer sleeve and space for large items like files and binders. The computer sleeve is generous and has enough padding to protect a stack of bone china plates.

The front section has all those multiple storage pockets and therein lies my sole complaint. There are just too many small pockets piled up one upon the other. Once I had filled them up, it became a challenge to remember which pocket actually held what item. Since each one has either zippered or velcro closures, you can’t even take a quick glance when searching for, say, your metro pass. Not a critical issue, but it’s still annoying.

There is a lot of organization housed in this bag. Even the inside of the flap is put to use by way of a large mesh pocket, though I’m not sure what I would store there. My wife tested the P&P as well and noted that a carrying handle would make a world of difference for those times when the shoulder strap is not practical, like getting in or out of a car.

The Complete Seed

Frankly, I was not entirely sure if I would like this black hole of a bag. It’s big. And if you don’t actually need a large bag, it can quickly become a formless hassle. Not so with the Complete Seed. This is now officially one of my favorite bags. Though certainly large, it is incredibly comfortable to carry either full or not so full.

This is a classic messenger bag so it’s designed to carry lots of stuff; hence, the focus is a large main compartment. Additionally, there are six smaller pockets ingeniously built into the Complete Seed’s front panel. The three “outer” pockets open along the bag’s top edge so they are easy to access while on the move. The three inner pockets are positioned identically, but run along the backside of the front panel (that is, on the inside of the bag). The center of these has a velcro closure to better secure small articles.

Locating the small pockets in such a fashion allows the main compartment to remain a huge block of negative space into which you could fit a small car. You almost don’t even notice the other pockets at all.

When filled with books, files and a laptop, it was still comfortable to carry. Though there was some shifting, that problem is not uncommon with a large bag that has no organizational features in its main compartment.

WRAP UP
This is easy; both are excellent bags with many pluses and a few minuses. Even then, the minuses can be chalked up to the simple fact that each bag was built to perform a certain job so its features are geared in a particular direction. Both bags are some of the best constructed I’ve ever come across and each is truly unique.

Crumpler is innovative in its marketing approach and unafraid to design bags which are distinctive to the point of niche. Either you like them or you don’t. I do.

Which one is closest to my idea of a commuter/dad bag? The Complete Seed hits that mark. Though not really appropriate for a suit, and most messenger bags are not, it is a stylish and totally functional workhorse that I’ve been happy to tote around.

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Bell & Ross: An Interesting Watch

When it comes to wrist watches, the shape and style of the watch case is often a variation on a common platform. They are round, rectangular or Tourneau – all traditional shapes. Once in a while though, a manufacturer comes along and dramatically changes the playing field. While not for everyone, Bell & Ross is one of those companies. Designed after airplane cockpit gauges, their BR Instrument line of timepieces is about as distinctive as you can get.

Founded in Switzerland in 1992 by a group of aeronautical designers, Bell & Ross is focused on producing watches that are both distinctive and suitable for use by demanding professionals like pilots, divers, astronauts and specialized police units.

What sets Bell & Ross apart from other Swiss watchmakers is its focus on utilitarian design, complimented by exceptional technical craftsmanship usually found inside luxury cases. Their designs tend to follow the school of “form follows function,” so the distinctive square shape of the Instrument line is, in fact, dictated by the goal of precision timekeeping and durability.

The company has four stated design principles that guide the development of their timepieces: water resistance, mechanical precision, readability and performance. The readability principle has perhaps the biggest impact on the watch’s physical design.

Hence, the Instrument line looks like, well, flight instruments. This practical design scheme ultimately makes for a truly unique watch in what too often seems like a sea of sameness.

These square cased watches are large, distinctive and instantly recognizable. Particularly unique is the watch face’s strong graphic design; large white markings on matt black backgrounds. The goal, of course, is to mimic the clear visual indicators of cockpit controls.

The Instrument line comes in four primary models: the BR 01-92 black dial automatic; the BR 01-94 Chronograph; the BR 01-96 big date; and the BR 01-97 power reserve. There is also a rather elaborate tourbillion model that is, to me, a little funny looking. For those out there with smaller wrists, there is also a mid-sized version of the Instrument line in a 42 millimeter size.

In keeping with the demands of collectors, each of these watches is also available in finishes other than black; from brushed steel to rose gold. While large and frankly clunky looking when lying on a table, once on the wrist, Instrument watches are particularly masculine looking.

If you are looking to invest in something interesting when it comes to watches, take a look at the Instrument line from Bell & Ross – it’s definitely different.

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Commuter & Dad Bag Test - Bag #1: The J. Peterman Company Counterfeit Mailbag

Anyone who reads Off The Cuff knows that I am always thinking about bags in one way or another because men today need them more than ever. And for those of us who commute by bus or rail, like me, we need good bags.

This led to the idea of the Commuter and Dad Bag Test. Unlike some other tests out there, I did not concoct some elaborate rating scale with minute technical benchmarks. I am simply looking at the bag’s suitability for use in the real world. Is it something I will actually want to carry around all day? Is it user friendly and well designed? Can it carry a laptop and a baby bottle without making me nervous?

I have already tested several bags, which entails real life day-to-day usage. I’m using them for work, running errands and carrying stuff around. They are being dropped, stuffed, rained and occasionally stepped on. My scoring system is fairly simple: I’ll tell you what I think, why I think it, and give you an overview of each bag’s performance, pros and cons. I am happy to now present the first review.

The J. Peterman Company Counterfeit Mailbag (US$298.00 / www.jpeterman.com)

Background
This is the only leather bag in the test and also the only messenger bag style bag. It is modeled after the old mail carrier bags that lugged generations of correspondence across the United States. Like the original, it is designed to hang off your shoulder or be carried by the sturdy handle (a modern concession).

Its manufacturer, The J. Peterman Company, is a remarkable company in its own right. Based in Lexington, Kentucky, its founder and namesake, John Peterman, is something of a cult figure in the premium catalog world. For more than 20 years, his iconic “owner’s manuals” have made their way to one expectant mailbox after another. With impressionistic watercolor images and pithy short stories instead of bland product specs, each one is a treat for the eye.

The company may also sound familiar to fans of the TV show “Seinfeld,” which turned John Peterman into a pompous blowhard played with aplomb by actor John O’Hurley (ironically, a part owner of the company). He did such a wonderful job of creating a larger than life character that most viewers did not even realize it was based on a real person and an actual company.

Those familiar with J. Peterman are ardent fans who appreciate its unique offerings and worldly (and wordy) marketing approach. The Counterfeit Mailbag is an original J. Peterman product and one I have long admired – a personal note of thanks goes out to John Peterman for providing the bag for this test.

The results
The day after it arrived, I loaded up and headed off to the office. I quickly lost track of the number of compliments I received by the time I headed home. It certainly has impact on people. Perhaps it is the obvious functionality in its DNA or the classic, simple styling of the thick yet supple leather, but something in this bag makes people like it.

Overall, I have to admit that this is not the ultimate commuter bag. It is not really designed for such a purpose, and actually that’s fine. This bag has so much personality and practical style that it’s almost unapologetic about its limitations. So, while I would recommend it as a great general purpose bag, using it in a commuter-specific role is not what it’s cut out for.

There is one giant open compartment which makes up 90% of the bag and a large exterior zippered pocket in front. This is all covered by an enormous leather flap. The large open pocket has a simple yet ingenious leather tab that buttons on to a brass stud used to keep the pocket pulled closed.

Design-wise, the large main compartment provides no organizational features; it’s just a big space that allows things to move around and get lost. Also, because of the bag’s design – it has a wide structured bottom and a flexible opening that is pulled closed via the tab – stuff naturally gets pushed out of place. For example, although my laptop had plenty of room in the bag, it also quickly shifted around and caused files and notebooks to slide to the bottom. With no additional interior pockets, my cell phone and Blackberry were quickly lost form view.

The zippered front pocket is quite large and slightly gusseted to allow for expansion. The zipper, as with all of the bag’s hardware, is top notch and sturdy. There are no pen loops or extra interior pockets so your smaller items will get jumbled a bit as well.

The sturdy leather shoulder strap is just that, a shoulder strap. Like the original, this bag is designed to be slung over one shoulder, not cross body. There is also a substantial padded leather handle, so it can be carried in business case fashion as well. Usually a perfunctory appendage on shoulder bags, this handle is wholly functional and well designed. Positioned at the center rear of the bag, it distributes weight fairly evenly, so it can be comfortably carried for long periods of time.

Wrap up
The Counterfeit Mailbag is perhaps my favorite overall bag. Neither a briefcase nor a messenger bag, it is actually the closest thing to man bag that I’ve come across. It is absolutely masculine and works quite well with a suit; just make sure to carry it by the handle so as to not mess up your jacket. At the same time the almost total lack of modern luggage engineering gives it a rugged, timeless appeal that works with a leather bomber and fedora. In fact, you are duly instructed to beat the heck out of it to help accelerate the aging process.

This is the kind of bag you want to carry around; it has unmistakable personality and a real sense of history and purpose to it. Just accept its organizational limitations and enjoy.

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“Designer” vs. “High Street”, Worth Wise

One of the worries of dispensing advice is that someone might actually follow it. It’s all very well to talk airily of this and that; to send people off to the battlefield of the high street with a convincing but perhaps unproven battle plan. I often wonder of the times when people might have followed my advice, only to discover, to their chagrin, it was the wrong advice; for those collective moments in my imagination, moments which might or might not have happened, I have a deep and unrelenting shame.

It’s dashed difficult to get it right all the time. Only in fiction do they seem to manage perfection – we unfortunate beings make mistakes. A remedy for our imperfections might be to temper our convictions; a ready knowledge of the subject followed by ‘…but it’s up to you really’ might help to satisfy that advice has been dispensed, even though that advice was retracted, unnoticed at the last moment, by the qualification.

One piece of advice about men’s clothing for which people frequently ask, especially in relation to expensive items is; ‘is it worth it?’ The problem with this question is that it is usually subjective. One man might spend a month’s salary on a suit, whereas another would prefer to spend it on a season’s collection of luxury denim – even arbiters of style find it hard to objectively rationalise such purchases.

Having said that, there is one thing that assists in analysis of worth: comparison. Comparison is a fantastically useful economic tool that shapes not only our monetary success but also our eventual satisfaction. If a man goes into a shop and finds exactly what he has been looking for, he is likely to be prepared for considerable purse-string loosening. The truth is very few men shop by the same book as women. Men like to think of themselves as rather practical beings. They do not like to be taken for a ride and are more likely to find thrill with an exposing swoop than having what all the others have. So, in the interests of obtaining this ‘swoop’, let us examine the market for three common items of clothing or accessories that a man might purchase.

The ‘designer’ overcoat vs. the ‘high street’ overcoat

Given the ubiquity of opinion that the high street has come on leaps and bounds in the last few years, many men who were perhaps sceptical of the quality and/or the aesthetic value of high street clothing, will now embrace the possibility of a high street overcoat. Having said that, whilst I acknowledge the greatness of certain high street brands, with large and important items like overcoats I recommend that one should proceed with caution.

One thing I noticed about my Cordings Covert coat was the weight of material used and the level of fine finishing. While there is no doubt that standards in ‘basic’ high street fashion stores are rising, there have been frequent complaints of weakly sewed buttons, linings coming loose within a month and unattractive ‘bobbling’ of material. Some chaps are content with this level of craftsmanship – willing to forego quality for a temporary fashion, but if you really do want a decent overcoat, you’d be better off paying more.

The ‘designer’ jeans vs. the ‘high street’ jeans

Considering the humble beginnings of denim, it is somewhat out of product character to be contemplating ‘high style’ jeans. However, there are such jeans out there and, with so much variety, how does a man choose? Your basic GAP denim will ‘do a job’, but frankly, I doubt anyone reading these columns is necessarily interested in the most fundamental and practical parts of clothing – a lot of it is, unfortunately, flat and lacking in style.

Desired fit of denim is very important and if you are particularly finicky on this score, you are much more likely to see the value in a pair of ‘designer’ jeans. For my money however, denim styles come and go far too quickly to invest too heavily. And no matter how much one might splash on designer jeans, they rarely look as expensive as they are.

The ‘designer’ sunglasses vs. the ‘high street’ sunglasses

The modern market for sunglasses is, for me, rather ridiculous. Despite the fact that more and more designs are utterly hideous and actually detract from the individual appeal of the wearer, they actually use the poor person as an advertising board; and the amazing thing is, more and more people stump up more and more cash for ever bigger logos; ever bigger writing. It is the bizarre reverse of the world of advertising space; where larger fonts and space cost the manufacturer the premium. Huge sunglasses, emblazoned with the gilt interlocking initials of a designer are usually massively overpriced. They are made using the same plastic as high street glasses and have the same levels of protection from the sun.

However, I have experienced ‘quality’ problems with high street sun-specs. Screws have come loose too easily, nose rests have mysteriously been lost and, due to the lack of a complementary proper protective case, lenses have become scratched. In comparison, as an example, my mother has a pair of Ray Ban Wayfarers, still going strong after 25 years. With sunglasses, you are likely to get better value for money with a ‘designer’ pair, despite what people might scoff about ‘losing them’ – personally, when I pay more for something I generally take better care of it. Choose a brand like Oliver Peoples, Persol or Ray-Ban to avoid turning your head into a billboard.

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