Rixon Groove, Wellington New Zealand

I’m currently in New Zealand spending Christmas with Westie and her parents. When abroad, if I can find a decent shirt maker and a good bar then I’m a happy traveller.

I found Rixon Groove while ankling through the Bank Arcade. A three floor shopping area which was once, as the name suggests, an old bank. A beautiful building it now houses clothing boutiques, most of which are independent.

The back story to Rixon Groove is available on their website. Putting them in context they’re a bit like a Kiwi version our own Nino Santoro.

Founded by Simon Fulton who runs the shop, RG is a proper shirt maker supplying Made to Measure, limited edition off the peg and hand made ties.

There are various things about this outfit that appealed. The range goes from traditional business shirt to flamboyant patterned fabrics and colours more suited to social occasions than business. But Simon certainly has a good eye for design, and softer collars definitely give his shirts a more relaxed antipodean air.

Additionally, rather than being shipped of to the Far East, all the shirts are made in Wellington including the off the peg ones. The same standard applies to the ties too.

Because they’re only a small outfit (the one shop) all garments are limited edition, when the cloth runs out, that’s it. The ties are made from fabrics sourced from all over the world, and each carries its own reference number telling you which one of the batch you’ve bought and how many remain –which is a nice touch.

As to price, buying in dollars and paying in pounds provides excellent value. Made to Measure shirts (no minimum order) come in at $194 NZ, about £72 per shirt, and they deliver all over the world. Meanwhile a limited edition handmade tie will set you back just $99NZ, which is just £37. I didn’t have time to get a shirt made but I couldn’t resist picking up one of their ties. A left field choice, even for me, it works wonderfully well with a blue suit and Bengal striped shirt.

Oh, and my bar of choice in Wellington, Hummingbird. They serve a good cocktail and the decor is that of a 1940’s French brothel.

WeAdmire.net T-Shirts

Some men these days wear little else, but you will rarely find me in a T-shirt. However, if I’m out on the water, on the beach, or relaxing at an informal BBQ – as I will be in New Zealand this Christmas – then you will see me in one, usually under an opened shirt.

Weadmire.net are my go too people. Indeed, this week Theo and his team have been helping me design a t-shirt as a gift for a friend of mine.

T-shirts are either festoon with the designer’s logos or have some trivial, nonsensical design on them. Theo Stegers wants to change all that. Feeling that T-shirt designs could actually mean something to the people who wear them he conceived of WeAdmire.net. He then jacked in his recruitment business and hasn’t looked back. In contemplating designs and topics he tells his team of young, energetic designers to consider the things, places and people they admire, not what’s commercially successful. What results are designs that are original, thought provoking, vibrant and sometimes whimsical. Many are artworks in themselves.

The T-shirts cover everything from Theories that changed the World to sportsmen, politician and film starts – my favourite T-shirt is the Fred Astair homage. I first met Theo some 12 months ago when I was searching out independent retailers in the East End of London, he showed me a T-shirt with Margaret Thatcher on it. I was somewhat surprised, but as he explained to me; “love her or loath her, you’ve got to admire her”.

Readers Question: A Perfect Gift

A friend of mine contacted me last week asking for help. She was looking for a Christmas present for her new chap. My advice may prove useful, whether you’re hunting for gifts or not.

“Stealth!

Help me!

I have a new man and I have no idea whatsoever what to get him for Christmas. He’s (relatively) stylish, 30, American etc. I want to get him something which isn’t completely obvious (no socks, hankies or ties - I think that might be lame), I don’t really want to spend more than a tonne [£100] either.

You’re my shopping guru. Obi won, you’re my only hope!”

“Duchess,

My first thought is book your fella an appointment with Erland at Stephan Haroutunian Shirts (Fulham), and pay for him to have a shirt made. I get my shirts made here, so what better recommendation could you ask for? They also make shirts for many British Army Officers  – chaps not know for accepting slovenliness. This was how the business actually started two generations ago.

Erland does a very good made to measure shirt at two price points, £69 and £79. There is no minimum order. This last point is very rare. Usually having shirts made to measure is quite an expensive business because most makers have minimum orders. This can be anything from 3 to 5 shirts in one hit. Erland will do single shirts, which makes it wonderfully affordable.

The shirts are made in the Haroutunian family’s workshop in Cyprus and are good quality, with beautifully soft unfused collars, although they do offer various combinations of interlining.

If your man’s a stylish fellow he’ll appreciate it. It’s a nice experience and he may even find a useful source for the future. Here is the complete lowdown.

Erland is a lovely man. I’m sure if you explain the situation and get him to write out a card along the lines of “Dear Mr X, we would be delighted to receive you at your earliest convenience…etc“. If it helps, mention my name.

Your man may already have his shirts made, but I doubt it. Most men don’t”.

While the people and events portrayed are real, some of the names have been changed to protect the identity of those receiving gifts from Santa.

A Few of My Favourite Things, Part 2: Taylor of Old Bond Street

This week I popped into Taylor of Old Bond Street for a few Christmas presents.

Most men hate shaving, either because of the time consuming monotonous tedium of the act itself, or the inevitable soreness and discomfort afterwards. But, investing in the proper kit can turn it into a pleasurable little morning ritual.

A family business originally founded in 1854, Taylor of Old Bond Street (now located at 74 Jermyn Street) are specialists in the art of shaving and male grooming. Their Chairman –the great grandson of the founder- to this day formulates many of the company’s hair and skin products. The staff are the friendliest, most knowledgeable people you could wished to be served by, so don’t be intimidated by its old world air or location. In the back of the shop is a full barber’s, offering shaves with a cut throat razor. If you have time, I strongly recommend such an experience. You’ll not only come out with the best shave of your life, but feeling wonderful serene.

Now, my father is notoriously hard to buy presents for. Simply put, he has enough money to buy whatever he wants, and usually does. Last year, however, I decided to take a punt and introduce him to Taylor of Old Bond Street, and their beautiful array or shaving and grooming products. We bought him a Silver-tip Badger Brush, shaving soap and imitation Ivory handled razor. Ever since, he has not stopped raving about what a real pleasure shaving has become – back of the net!

The key to the ritual, and eliminating most of the irritation, is the Badger Hair brush. The brush not only softens the hairs and lifts them, but it also holds water and thereby creates a rich moist lather which helps prevent razor burn. Be aware that there are essentially 4 types of badger hair brush; Pure Badger, Best Badger, Super Badger (nothing to do with caped crusading) and Silver-tip Badger, and each grade is better than the last. The names relate to where upon the badger the fur is taken from, its denseness per brush as well as its softness and water holding properties.

- Pure Badger most commonly refers to hair from the under belly.

- Best Badger is hair taken from the body of the beast and these are more pliable. The handle will have a denser concentration of hair than one made of pure badger.

- Super Badger comes from the back of the badger and is softer still than Pure or Best. Because the hair is finer the handle will be more densely packed. You may find the tips of the hairs dyed white, this is to differentiate it from Best and Pure.

- Silver-tip is made from hair on the underside of the badger’s chin or neck. These hairs are noticeably softer than other grades and tips of the hairs will be off white in colour –this is natural colouring and not a feature of dying.

Happy Shaving.

Loro Piana Dresses Italians At The Weekend

Recent acquisitions at Loro Piana have led me into a deeper investigation of the brand. Expect a full-length piece on its history, production and craft sometime next year.

In the meantime, the good people at LP sent me over the look book of images for Spring/Summer 2010. I’ve often picked this up in the store in previous seasons, as they have a good eye for colour combinations and layering. It is a little, professional glimpse into the ‘How Italians Dress at the Weekend’ aesthetic that so much of the Anglo-Saxon world aspires to.

(Indeed, one of my favourite-ever fashion shoots was one with just that title in the Spring/Summer 2009 edition of US Esquire’s Big Black Book – those that got the issue, you know what I mean.)

The first picture I have highlighted here is very simple. Pale grey/green, unlined linen/cashmere jacket,  grey silk/cashmere cardigan with hounds-tooth detail, cream silk shirt and white cotton trousers. Plus brown suede belt and shoes, and white linen handkerchief. Very light and summery, only to be worn on a bright day.

But I love the use of different greys – particularly the touch of green in the jacket – and the way the simplicity of tone makes the whole outfit crisp. The cardigan suggests a waistcoat (and as such looks far better with the jacket than without) and the brown suede provides perfectly neutral shadow, sucking light in.

Wearing both white shirt and trousers is dangerous – if worn on their own they can wash you out or make you look like a hospital orderly. Here the cardigan, belt and jacket break them up enough.

The second image I have chosen succeeds in the same way. The peach of the jacket, cream of the cardigan and khaki of the trousers are all from the same colour wheel – each with more or less saturation, more or less brightness. So the simple, summery shades work together well. And as before the shirt and handkerchief are bright accents, while the belt and shoes are deep shadow.

There is little difference in the materials, save that the jacket is linen and silk, and the shirt is now linen.

My final choice demonstrates the power of adding one bright tone to the outfit. The burnt orange cardigan is connected to the creams that surround it, while being far brighter and stronger. Take away the cardigan in your mind’s eye and the outfit is bleached and lifeless. It needs that colour to bring it to life (as well as to separate the shirt and trousers, as before).

The tricky thing about wearing bright colours like this, of course, is that if you are ever too hot to wear the jacket the orange is too strong on its own, cheap even. So when layering, make sure the layers are thin.