One Thing: The Original Filofax

Although my trusty Blackberry is always within easy reach, I have to say that I’m equally, if not more devoted to my Filofax. Though many have sounded the death knell of paper planners, nothing really engenders the same emotional reaction as a loose leaf planner filled with a calendar, note pages and To-Do lists.

My particular organiser has seen service on and off for the better part of a dozen years.  Readers may recall that last year I was trying out a Moleskine weekly planner. I liked it, but the style and format were too limited for my needs.  I turned to my elegant and trusty black Filofax personal size planner. It is a buttery soft lambskin that wears its age well.

I’ve added the Filofax to my One Thing list because, as you know, personal accessories are an important part of any man’s life. The things we carry and keep tell others what we value and how we think. Paper planners are tactile and personal in a way that electronic organizers – no matter how advanced – can never be. You can jot and note, doodle and make a list; turn a page or stash a newly acquired business card. They are tactile.

They are also reliable and portable. My computer may crash, but not my Filofax, and I can tuck that soft binder into any bag. And when that leather starts to show more wear and more scuff, I will be glad for the personality it imparts. Not so with a computer or Blackberry.

To me, like a flat leather folio, a worn-in Filofax is an elegant and incredibly personal item. It imparts a sense of intellectual anachronism, of curiosity and an appreciation for classics. The Filofax fits in nicely when going to meetings, can substitute for a notebook and is the perfect place for those loose scraps of paper currently cluttering up your bag.

These remarkably resilient tools have been around since 1921 and hold a certain cache due to the many elegantly constructed covers from which one can choose. An endless supply of refill pages, forms and calendar formats allows one to customize a Filofax to his exact needs.

Though my electronic tools have their place, I am constantly drawn back to this arguably old-fashioned method of organization. But, for me at least, that is the attraction. A beautiful pen and leather-bound agenda, notebook and planner make life’s daily tasks seem a little more special. And that is “one thing” everyone can use.

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A Blazer for Every Occasion

The blazer is one of those iconic staple items that virtually every man, regardless of age or profession, has at least one of in their closet. Whether it is the standard, blue, prep school blazer or something more intricate, a blazer is a must-have object that is as versatile as it is diverse.

There is no substitute for a blazer in situations that demand a dressier or even more chic attire. European, slim cuts are much preferable to boxy, American sport coats, which unfortunately proliferate all throughout politicians’ circles and middle management. The best attributes are darted wastes, side vents and a two-button maximum.

Easily the most conservative variety are blue sport coats, which often come standard with gold buttons. While there is a fair amount of dissent as to the stylishness and aesthetic value of gold buttons, I maintain that they are both ugly as well as puerile due to their association with young students and “family style” sit-down dinners at boarding school. I believe the only acceptable place for a gold button blazer is if you are channeling John F. Kennedy on a yachting trip.
Versace Suit Jacket $1,195

The velvet blazer, besides having enjoyed a comeback as the trendy item du jour, is a great item to wear out for a night on the town. Pair it with dark, slim jeans and patent leather shoes and you have one of the most stylish looks of the day. This particular blazer has all the trademarks of a modern sport coat. The fitted waste, the single button closure, peak lapels and satin trimming are all fashionable elements that one should look for in a ‘going-out’ blazer.
Two a.m. velvet blazer $135

The corduroy blazer instantly provides an air of academia to its wearer and is easier to dress down than up. Because it looks great with almost any pair of jeans, it’s the ideal jacket to throw on during the weekend with sneakers or loafers. Finding one that is fitted with either one or two buttons is important for counteracting the stuffiness that is inherent in the fabric.
Barney’s Co-op sport coat $119

When summer comes around (though that’s now a sadly distant thought), a seersucker blazer is both a stylish and preppy alternative to other styles. Seersucker, being rumpled, is intrinsically casual so it’s a cool look with jeans and a crisp white dress shirt or can be worn with a t-shirt for a younger and more informal feel.
Juicy Couture Seersucker Blazer $325

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3 Versatile Man Bags

It is with much pride and happiness that I feel I am finally able to announce that the debate on man bags (also known affectionately as a “murse”) has concluded and their acceptability is no longer of contention.  It is almost impossible to walk down the street in New York without seeing at least one man carrying some sort of version of the man bag, now a necessity for all of modern living’s impedimenta.

With the legitimacy of the man bag now firmly acknowledged by almost all, men are beginning to look beyond the traditional messenger bag for both more practical and stylish options. Here are some different styles to keep an eye out for when making your next purchase.

Andrew Marc (on sale: $319)

Don’t let the title of “weekender” bag here fool you. Most likely, it would be much too small for even the most Spartan of packers, likely unable to fit more than a day’s change of clothing, let alone the other things necessary for a weekend excursion. Instead, this bag from Andrew Marc, as well as others, has been proliferating all throughout New York as the bag form of choice for the modern gentleman. Because of its unmistakably masculine appearance, it is not easily confused for a women’s bag. At the same time, it is still both sophisticated and attractive and is thus a great option for a daily bag around town. I prefer bags like this because the pockets and compartments that are normally lacking on messenger bags aid you in being better organized, which saves you all the trouble of digging around through your stuff until you find your vibrating cell phone at the absolute bottom of everything. 

Dolce and Gabbana ($520)

The problem I have with most messenger bags is that the plain canvas bags are so ubiquitous that they become a turn-off. This incarnation from Dolce and Gabbana is exciting in its contrast to other banal messenger bags available from retailers like Manhattan Portage. The distressed leather flap and “antique” brass hardware make it stand out as a refined bag, well adept for expressing your individuality.

Gucci ($1,436)

The shape of this bag, from Gucci reminds me vaguely of a traditional doctor’s bag. In reality, I would classify it as a briefcase-hybrid since if it were not for the bag’s expanding shape at the bottom, it would essentially be a soft briefcase. The bag’s roomy interior and larger size allow for it to be easily converted to carrying files to and from the office. At the same time, the bag is casual enough for even weekend use, making any outfit more sophisticated. It is also possibly the most perfect manifestation of what a piece of carry-on luggage should be in terms of proportion and style.

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Guide to Clothes Sales Shopping

Along with champagne, Auld Lang Syne, countdowns and resolutions, there is one year-end tradition that is known and loved: the sales. Yes, try as they might to make people purchase throughout the year through multi million-pound marketing and try as they might to make fashion more affordable for everyone, the fact is that the populous loves cut price goods. It’s a matter of self-satisfaction. It’s rather like cheating the system in a legitimate way and people are prepared to put up with extraordinary queues, imperfect goods, incredible rudeness, frustration and no end of temporary misery to hold their purchase high when they are warmly ensconced in their own homes once more, like a trophy kill from the day’s battle.

There is certainly much to recommend sales. However, price reductions have a marked effect on even self-professed ‘rational’ purchasers; they can make them buy things they never even wanted. When the price to pay is so little, and the possible use to gain is so great, you might think buying six or seven things, which you had no notion of considering an hour beforehand, harmless. You might be looking forward to a hefty Christmas bonus. Generous relatives might have lavished cash on you for a secure New Year. However, even those with money to burn can waste resources on unwanted items. Here is some field advice when entering the sales battleground.

Know what you want

It’s very important to set yourself targets when sale shopping. As with all target-setting, it’s wise to be realistic; don’t expect to find exquisite suits for £50. Imagine the worst case scenario vis-à-vis price and you are likely to be pleasantly surprised. Secondly, be open to alternatives. You’re likely to be very disappointed if you set out to find a few coveted items only to find the sizes are inappropriate or they have simply sold out, so if you’re looking for, as an example, skinny grey denim, do some research. Pencil in visiting several contending shops for the item, and you’re more likely to strike it lucky.

Don’t wait too long

Reductions: we get them, but then we want more. It’s a very risky game waiting until the latter half of the sale period, hoping the jacket we’ve seen will be reduced further and will still be available in our size. I’ve learned my lesson on this score. In the end, just to save a measly £20, I missed out on a wonderful blazer, with a very individual pattern, that I could have bought at a, retrospectively, very reasonable discount. If it’s smart and classic, and your size is common, do not wait; you are likely to be disappointed.

What to buy/not to buy

I could fill an entire wardrobe with items I have rarely worn because their appeal did not last beyond a couple of months. Very ‘trendy’ items, with little substance, are generally a waste of money in the sale period. The best items to choose are the standards; two-button jackets, classically shaped denim, ties, shirts and underwear. Suits are also great purchases come sale time, and it’s sad when I see wonderfully cut suits densely piled onto creaking racks in unpopular and uncared for retailers.
A suit that cost £500+ new, if it fits well enough (it can always be altered a little), if it’s reduced by up to 50%, is an absolute steal and yet I see masses of the things come late January, still there, dusty, being offered at a price cut of 75%. A suit, properly made, will never go out of fashion and buy a good enough model and it should last you a good number of years.

Another good purchase is footwear. Well-made shoes are costly, and most specialised shoe shops will not offer reductions at any other time of year than mid-summer and January. Expect reductions to remain fairly rigid, but comparatively generous; spending £175 on £250 shoes is money very well spent.

Avoid budgeting

Though prima facie, this looks like terrible advice, what I actually mean is, do not set out to spend all the money you have set aside for the sales. If there is some dosh left over, and you haven’t found something else you really want, avoid wasting it on an irrelevance. It’s far better to save it, and add it to next month’s clothing or grooming budget and buy something you really need instead.

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Stocking Filers: Gift Suggestions for Men

A well-filled trouser is a sign of prosperity, but what of a well-filled stocking? Though Christmas offers an enticing mélange of good spirits, plenty of good plonk, gorgeously rich vapours from the kitchen and mountains of gifts, it can often be the small things that make your Christmas truly wonderful. The small, unexcitingly wrapped, rather flat looking package can be everything you had no idea you wanted; a little trinket or bijou perhaps, something that sparkles merrily, a dash of luxurious fabric. Similarly, the Teutonic tradition of placing empty stockings on the fireplace, though a matter of form and custom nowadays, can offer the discerning gentleman of style a surprise such as an accessory du jour, wrapped unassumingly in what is essentially an old sock.

Stocking fillers are a wonderful idea for the modish man and, though the popularity of stockings has waned, there are plenty of gleaming objects of the required size. Here are some suggestions:

Cufflinks

Some elegant cufflinks will always be a sure-fire hit, and keeping abreast of the gentleman’s collection will give you a good idea of what he needs, and also, what he likes. Some men will only buy humorous or contemporary designs for themselves; patriotic flags, hot and cold taps and the like, so this is a fabulous opportunity to buy them something rather more classic and less tongue in cheek. Similarly, men who adorn their cuffs in Deco glory and Victoriana may be offered something a little more current.

Necktie

A high-quality necktie in a luxurious fabric makes a lovely stocking filler. Avoid choosing run-of-the-mill plains; everyone wears patternless ties these days, so try and introduce a little fun and flair.

Cashmere socks

An extravagance for our poor feet, cashmere socks are the last word in leg luxury. It’s a real treat to unwrap a pair, knowing the delicious comfort when we slip them onto our feet on an especially cold and brutal day. The legendary sock manufacturer Pantherella has a great range of cashmere socks. Alternative and bright colours like red and blue make them individual and are therefore more likely to be used sparingly, justly so, on very special occasions.

Card holder

A man cannot do with loose cards and notes, and by no means should a man of taste and style go half-measure where currency retention is concerned. Launer’s of London have been making leathergoods for 60 years and the Queen is one apparently satisfied customer. Royal warrants, in the matter of everyday goods such as these, are rarely bestowed and therefore a Launer wallet makes a right royally elegant and classically stylish addition to the stocking.

Tie-clip

Another sparkling gift, the tie-clip is once more a happy favourite for well dressed men. The dash of gleaming silver against woven silk makes an ordinary outfit quite extraordinary; tie jewellery really does accentuate the smart attire of the wearer. With such items, it is prudent to select quality rather than quantity. Therefore, choose a classic and sturdy design that will complement almost any colour of necktie and shirt. All pictured tie-clips are available from Amazon.com.

Razor from Trumper’s of Curzon Street

Trumper’s have been shaving the great and the good at their barber shop on Curzon Street, Mayfair since 1875. They’ve held warrants aplenty from approving monarchs and the barbers’ skill with a blade is renowned. However, unless you happen to live within easy reach of W1, there really is no joy. Having said that, you can shave off a piece of the Trumper’s action with a splendid safety razor. They use universally available Gillette blades and the handles are well-built, ergonomic and attractive.

ABC of Men’s Fashion by Hardy Amies

It’s a relief to see more and more information is being made available to the inquisitive style devotee. Magazines, blogs, television programmes; there’s a mass of information out there. Not all of it is reliable, some of it is misleading, and there’s an amount of it which is downright nonsense. Hardy Amies little jewel of a book however, is not nonsense. It’s quite brilliant; consistently useful and very entertaining. It’s not ‘light reading’ – this isn’t a coffee table volume to be picked up, laughed at and then forgotten. There’s some very serious and valuable advice from Amies, the Queen’s clothier himself, and it deserves some sober consideration.

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