Taking Winston’s Advice

In a bid to avoid repeating the advice of others, I spent this week looking through past Men’s Flair posts. This one, by Winston, advocating patterned trousers chimed with me.

I have a surfeit of jeans and chinos for weekends and casual wear. In many ways I’m comfortable in my uniform of odd jacket and denim. But as I plough on into my thirties I feel my tastes maturing slightly. Time to experiment with trousers.

Previously I’ve found two problems doing this. The first was finding something sufficiently relaxed and informal which didn’t make me feel like a man missing a suit jacket, or a buffer aspirant. The second problem is that most of the available ‘younger’ trousering follows fashion, meaning the accursed skinny fit –low rise, tight bum and microscopic crotch. If you weigh more than a buck-fifty in loose change these trousers are deeply unflattering. I’m no rake, but with a 36 inch waist, a bum and solid thighs neither am I obese.

Fortunately for every problem there is a solution, and mine comes in the form of these Dog Tooth check trousers from Adam of London. They are also available in Prince of Wales Check and Mohair, although I’m not daring enough for that. They’re a tailored fit -not skinny- tapering to a 16.5 inch leg; with side adjusters and belt loops (a little unconventional but I don’t mind that); side/front pockets and no pleats. They provide a trim modern silhouette, but they sit on the waist and provide enough room for men sized men.

The man behind the trousers is Adam Shener, a plain speaking, no nonsense kinda chap whose shop specialises in authentic English 60’s tailoring. Most people don’t appreciate that the sixties had two distinct sartorial parts to it. From 1963  - 1965, which is Adam’s era, sharp suiting was the uniform for that group known as the Mods (which stands for modernists). After this period things went down hill with lapels and trouser legs getting ever wider. Adam’s is no hack retro shop, it’s all about cut and fine tailoring from an era when men predominantly wore bespoke. For the money I think he creates one of the best fitting off the peg suits on the market.

Now there is definitely one man who will be taking Winston’s advice.

Sartorial Alchemy In Practice Part 1

Many moons ago I wrote, somewhat verbosely, of my admiration for style resourcefulness and sartorial alchemy. I am continually impressed by the unpolished gems that some style gurus manage to find in unlikely places; at the bottom of bargain boxes, in a charity shop, on eBay, in their parents attic. Wherever there is value, you will find them. They are extraordinarily patient people who think nothing of spending hours in underground thrift stores with a rather brave hope that they will find something worthwhile. I know a gentleman who trawled through boxes, pushed through crowds and endured hours of disappointed searching in stuffy, poorly kept second-hand emporia only to return to the same search a week later.

Such persistence and tolerance of imperfection deserves praise, but what really amazes me is how a little smattering of imagination can turn the wrinkled garment in the bargain bin into a stand-out piece in an ensemble; one which will prompt continual enquiries of ‘where did you get that?’ I recently took a very cheap, new double-breasted jacket bought on eBay for £5 (including delivery) to Graham Browne in the City to see what they could do with it. I informed the tailor, Russell, of my plans to turn what was an unremarkable and anonymous jacket into an attractive and distinctive item. I would add the creamy white buttons, to create a natty Gatsby-esque number, but his job was to do what he could with the fit.

Armed with pins, Russell asked me to put the jacket on. It was a 34”, as close to my torso measurements as possible, but still depressingly boxy. I had already decided that the jacket waist and shoulders needed to be taken in, and I had pinned the bottom of the jacket up myself in order to give the tailor an idea of how I wanted the item to look. Russell was utterly professional and only assented to chime in with commentary on the very cheaply produced garment in response to my own criticisms of its quality. I informed him of my goal of sartorial alchemy and that it was truly up to his talents as a tailor to make the silhouette of the jacket worthy of gold; “So, I’ve got to make a silk purse…” he began “…out of a sow’s ear!”

The lesson of this will be, hopefully, that despite its rather dull origins, an item should not just be appreciated for what it is, but for what it can be. If you have an unspectacular item that once cost you an insignificant amount of money, you have a choice; with the right imagination and adjustments, you could turn something you might have thrown away into something rather special. The raw materials of even the cheapest, nastiest object of fashion need to be appreciated. For fashion, after all, is merely material that is sewn around the human form. A little patience, and imagination, goes a long way. I hope to see the result of Russell’s alchemy next week when the jacket is ready.

Is Bespoke Always Better?

I spotted this jacket on a recent visit to Nino’s. I liked it straight away. Made in Italy it’s pure linen with a floating canvas, working button holes, satin lined and hand finished. I also like the contrasting dark brown piping on the pockets and stitching around the button holes.

When Nino told me the price of £560 I instantly thought, ‘But it’s not bespoke. Is it worth it?” I suspect my reaction would be a common one.  Perhaps the real question is, am I right to think that way?

I once put this issue to Adrian Holdsworth, the owner of luxury menswear shop Volpe in Pimlico. His core business is off the peg and made to measure suits which range from £450 right up to £2000. Revealingly he says his customers want shape and comfort, minus the fussiness of bespoke. He also made the point that, “the internal construction of a [English] bespoke suit can be too heavy. Many tailors aren’t used to working with fewer layers, lighter interlining and lighter horse hair. As such a traditional solid construction doesn’t always lend itself to lighter weight fabrics”. He makes a good point and one I’ve heard before.

There is another angle to consider. Where I would see possibility in choosing lapel widths and shape, linings, cloth types and weights, padding types and more, others may simply see a mine field. These men aren’t lesser beings for not knowing. They just want to look good and have someone remove the head aches for them.

Does everybody need bespoke? If you have a fairly standard body shape then in terms of fit you’re unlikely to notice the difference between one of Nino’s jackets and one you had made. The jacket above has a beautiful silhouette, high arm holes and narrow sleeves. What more could you ask for?

I suppose the real point is that it doesn’t matter whether you have a wardrobe full of bespoke or none at all. Provided what you do buy is well made, fits properly and suits you, you can class yourself a well dressed man.

A Tour Around Milan

As anyone who has been fortunate enough to visit Milan will tell you, the city is not all fashion. There are several old and new stores worth the visit for those interested in classic menswear.

By reputation, the city’s three stand-out establishments for tradition and quality are Bardelli, Neglia and Tincati. However, each offers something quite different – as I discovered recently.

Neglia is the destination for Milanese men looking to the best in English and American imports. So the shoes are Church’s and Edward Green, the umbrellas and the bags from Brigg, the suits in the window from Ralph Lauren, and half of the ties from Drake’s. So while there are also top-class Italian names like Brioni and Kiton, and Neglia’s new and expanded own-label suits, the shop does not offer much to the international visitor that he can’t get elsewhere. The one exception is probably Incotex trousers – their cords pictured below.

M Bardelli is very different. One of the oldest men’s clothing establishments in Milan, it could safely claim to be the definition of Milanese style – classic, formal, with heavy English influences. Particularly prevalent (this season at least) are sports jackets in grey and brown checks and strongly striped shirts. As well as woollen ties in club stripes, which are ubiquitous for Autumn/Winter in Milan. While not necessarily inspirational, it is the base from which Milan can be understood.

Tincati is smaller, more refined and idiosyncractic. Very lightweight raincoats, woven belts and soft thin knitwear, it also has a dedicated area at the back from bespoke orders. Certainly worth a look.

Of more modern, quirky establishments, Al Bazar is the standout. Located outside the centre (a couple of streets from Bardelli), it is a treasure trove of items collected under the aesthetic of one man – Lino Leluzzi. More on Al Bazar on Permanent Style next week.

The greatest joy, however, is discovering less well-known shops. Like Piombo, just off the Golden Triangle, which had the most lovely unlined, washed cashmere green blazer (and one of their colour combinations is below). Or Rivolta, the old Milanese shoemaker that has recently relaunched with a model for making bespoke shoes purely off an electronic scan of your feet (a longer feature, again, is on Permanent Style). Larusmiani is also worth a look. It is an ultra luxurious menswear store on Via Montenapoleone that reminds me of Kiton before it grew. An old name in Milan, it is surrounded by fashion houses but retains a very particular character.

Anything else worth mentioning? The Etro sale store on Via Spartaco (50% of this season, 75% of the last); absolutely gorgeous and well-cut knits at Red and Blue, which looks more like it is called Fedeli (the brand of clothes sold); and Doriani for similar knitwear reasons. Oh, and go have lunch in the café at Corso Como (below), then wander around the shop inside – a great menagerie of brands.

It was also two days, but it feels like there’s so much more to tell.

In Support Of The Independent Retailer

I ought to start my first column by thanking the team of MensFlair for inviting me onboard. I’m looking forward to working with them, and writing for you.

So what might you expect from me? Well, my passion is independent menswear retailers, and I spend much of my time trying to track them down. You might be thinking I’m just another scribbler advocating bespoke. Not true.

There are basically three types of independent retailer:

-The Craftsman;

-The Designer/Enthusiast; and

-The Collector

Seeking out a few of each will vastly improve your wardrobe and better help you find your own look –a key requirement to achieving that classification of ‘a well dressed man’.

Craftsman are your bespoke tailors, made to measure shirt makers, bespoke shoe makers, hatters and jewellers etc. Their virtue is obvious, you get garments perfectly suited to your taste and physiology. Handwork, purity of material, tradition, skill and love of job are the craftsman’s hallmarks –and the characteristics of a beautiful wardrobe.

If you do some research craftsmen aren’t ruinously expensive. Thomas Pink will sell you an off the peg mass produced shirt for £69. For the same price Stephan Haroutunian – a second generation shirt maker – will make you a shirt (no minimum order), with the finest, softest collar I’ve yet found.

The designer/enthusiast is perhaps my favourite category of independent. These are men on a mission. They love clothes and despair of high street offerings. They want something better. Putting inspirations to paper they go out and find manufacturers to make it happen. Above all they produce clothes they themselves want to own, which often means a high standard of quality.

A fine example of this is Albam founded by James Shaw and Alistair Rae. Their motto is ‘Modern Crafted Clothing’ and they go to inordinate lengths to find British manufacturers. But the agenda of the designer/enthusiast can be anything from recreating a particular look, as in the case of Adam Shener and his perfectly tailored mod suits, to providing Italian inspired luxury menswear for a reasonable price like Adrian Holdsworth at Volpe (in Pimlico). What they all have in common is their clothes are original, limited edition, of a better quality and at a farer price than the high street.

Last is the collector. These guys don’t design, nor do they make their own clothes. Instead they stock other people’s and with them define a look. Neil Crowe at Palmers simply tries to stock a simple core wardrobe of well made clothes: RM Williams jeans and boots, Sebago deck shoes, Eton shirts and a host of lesser known continental brands. At the opposite end of the scale is John Simons who is a legend for his soft shoulder suits, Bill’s Khakis, Pendletons, everything to enable an authentic Ivy League look.

If you worry about putting clothes together then shops like these are a godsend; if you like the look the more you buy the more complete and harmonious will your wardrobe be.

The final point to consider is that success in the mass market means working towards the lowest common denominator. This is never so apparent than in the case of customer service and the shopping experience. The owner of an independent isn’t some sixteen year old on minimum wage itching to knock off; he’s proud of his shop, his kit and wants you to enjoy your experience –and come back. Every independent shop bears the imprint of the owner’s character upon it. This can mean Frank Sinatra singing in the background or being asked if you like a cup of coffee when you enter the shop. Shopping can become a real pleasure.

Taking the time to find half a dozen independent retailers will vastly improve your wardrobe, and may actually result in you enjoying the act of shopping.