Commuter & Dad Bag Test - Bag #1: The J. Peterman Company Counterfeit Mailbag

Anyone who reads Off The Cuff knows that I am always thinking about bags in one way or another because men today need them more than ever. And for those of us who commute by bus or rail, like me, we need good bags.

This led to the idea of the Commuter and Dad Bag Test. Unlike some other tests out there, I did not concoct some elaborate rating scale with minute technical benchmarks. I am simply looking at the bag’s suitability for use in the real world. Is it something I will actually want to carry around all day? Is it user friendly and well designed? Can it carry a laptop and a baby bottle without making me nervous?

I have already tested several bags, which entails real life day-to-day usage. I’m using them for work, running errands and carrying stuff around. They are being dropped, stuffed, rained and occasionally stepped on. My scoring system is fairly simple: I’ll tell you what I think, why I think it, and give you an overview of each bag’s performance, pros and cons. I am happy to now present the first review.

The J. Peterman Company Counterfeit Mailbag (US$298.00 / www.jpeterman.com)

Background
This is the only leather bag in the test and also the only messenger bag style bag. It is modeled after the old mail carrier bags that lugged generations of correspondence across the United States. Like the original, it is designed to hang off your shoulder or be carried by the sturdy handle (a modern concession).

Its manufacturer, The J. Peterman Company, is a remarkable company in its own right. Based in Lexington, Kentucky, its founder and namesake, John Peterman, is something of a cult figure in the premium catalog world. For more than 20 years, his iconic “owner’s manuals” have made their way to one expectant mailbox after another. With impressionistic watercolor images and pithy short stories instead of bland product specs, each one is a treat for the eye.

The company may also sound familiar to fans of the TV show “Seinfeld,” which turned John Peterman into a pompous blowhard played with aplomb by actor John O’Hurley (ironically, a part owner of the company). He did such a wonderful job of creating a larger than life character that most viewers did not even realize it was based on a real person and an actual company.

Those familiar with J. Peterman are ardent fans who appreciate its unique offerings and worldly (and wordy) marketing approach. The Counterfeit Mailbag is an original J. Peterman product and one I have long admired – a personal note of thanks goes out to John Peterman for providing the bag for this test.

The results
The day after it arrived, I loaded up and headed off to the office. I quickly lost track of the number of compliments I received by the time I headed home. It certainly has impact on people. Perhaps it is the obvious functionality in its DNA or the classic, simple styling of the thick yet supple leather, but something in this bag makes people like it.

Overall, I have to admit that this is not the ultimate commuter bag. It is not really designed for such a purpose, and actually that’s fine. This bag has so much personality and practical style that it’s almost unapologetic about its limitations. So, while I would recommend it as a great general purpose bag, using it in a commuter-specific role is not what it’s cut out for.

There is one giant open compartment which makes up 90% of the bag and a large exterior zippered pocket in front. This is all covered by an enormous leather flap. The large open pocket has a simple yet ingenious leather tab that buttons on to a brass stud used to keep the pocket pulled closed.

Design-wise, the large main compartment provides no organizational features; it’s just a big space that allows things to move around and get lost. Also, because of the bag’s design – it has a wide structured bottom and a flexible opening that is pulled closed via the tab – stuff naturally gets pushed out of place. For example, although my laptop had plenty of room in the bag, it also quickly shifted around and caused files and notebooks to slide to the bottom. With no additional interior pockets, my cell phone and Blackberry were quickly lost form view.

The zippered front pocket is quite large and slightly gusseted to allow for expansion. The zipper, as with all of the bag’s hardware, is top notch and sturdy. There are no pen loops or extra interior pockets so your smaller items will get jumbled a bit as well.

The sturdy leather shoulder strap is just that, a shoulder strap. Like the original, this bag is designed to be slung over one shoulder, not cross body. There is also a substantial padded leather handle, so it can be carried in business case fashion as well. Usually a perfunctory appendage on shoulder bags, this handle is wholly functional and well designed. Positioned at the center rear of the bag, it distributes weight fairly evenly, so it can be comfortably carried for long periods of time.

Wrap up
The Counterfeit Mailbag is perhaps my favorite overall bag. Neither a briefcase nor a messenger bag, it is actually the closest thing to man bag that I’ve come across. It is absolutely masculine and works quite well with a suit; just make sure to carry it by the handle so as to not mess up your jacket. At the same time the almost total lack of modern luggage engineering gives it a rugged, timeless appeal that works with a leather bomber and fedora. In fact, you are duly instructed to beat the heck out of it to help accelerate the aging process.

This is the kind of bag you want to carry around; it has unmistakable personality and a real sense of history and purpose to it. Just accept its organizational limitations and enjoy.

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“Designer” vs. “High Street”, Worth Wise

One of the worries of dispensing advice is that someone might actually follow it. It’s all very well to talk airily of this and that; to send people off to the battlefield of the high street with a convincing but perhaps unproven battle plan. I often wonder of the times when people might have followed my advice, only to discover, to their chagrin, it was the wrong advice; for those collective moments in my imagination, moments which might or might not have happened, I have a deep and unrelenting shame.

It’s dashed difficult to get it right all the time. Only in fiction do they seem to manage perfection – we unfortunate beings make mistakes. A remedy for our imperfections might be to temper our convictions; a ready knowledge of the subject followed by ‘…but it’s up to you really’ might help to satisfy that advice has been dispensed, even though that advice was retracted, unnoticed at the last moment, by the qualification.

One piece of advice about men’s clothing for which people frequently ask, especially in relation to expensive items is; ‘is it worth it?’ The problem with this question is that it is usually subjective. One man might spend a month’s salary on a suit, whereas another would prefer to spend it on a season’s collection of luxury denim – even arbiters of style find it hard to objectively rationalise such purchases.

Having said that, there is one thing that assists in analysis of worth: comparison. Comparison is a fantastically useful economic tool that shapes not only our monetary success but also our eventual satisfaction. If a man goes into a shop and finds exactly what he has been looking for, he is likely to be prepared for considerable purse-string loosening. The truth is very few men shop by the same book as women. Men like to think of themselves as rather practical beings. They do not like to be taken for a ride and are more likely to find thrill with an exposing swoop than having what all the others have. So, in the interests of obtaining this ‘swoop’, let us examine the market for three common items of clothing or accessories that a man might purchase.

The ‘designer’ overcoat vs. the ‘high street’ overcoat

Given the ubiquity of opinion that the high street has come on leaps and bounds in the last few years, many men who were perhaps sceptical of the quality and/or the aesthetic value of high street clothing, will now embrace the possibility of a high street overcoat. Having said that, whilst I acknowledge the greatness of certain high street brands, with large and important items like overcoats I recommend that one should proceed with caution.

One thing I noticed about my Cordings Covert coat was the weight of material used and the level of fine finishing. While there is no doubt that standards in ‘basic’ high street fashion stores are rising, there have been frequent complaints of weakly sewed buttons, linings coming loose within a month and unattractive ‘bobbling’ of material. Some chaps are content with this level of craftsmanship – willing to forego quality for a temporary fashion, but if you really do want a decent overcoat, you’d be better off paying more.

The ‘designer’ jeans vs. the ‘high street’ jeans

Considering the humble beginnings of denim, it is somewhat out of product character to be contemplating ‘high style’ jeans. However, there are such jeans out there and, with so much variety, how does a man choose? Your basic GAP denim will ‘do a job’, but frankly, I doubt anyone reading these columns is necessarily interested in the most fundamental and practical parts of clothing – a lot of it is, unfortunately, flat and lacking in style.

Desired fit of denim is very important and if you are particularly finicky on this score, you are much more likely to see the value in a pair of ‘designer’ jeans. For my money however, denim styles come and go far too quickly to invest too heavily. And no matter how much one might splash on designer jeans, they rarely look as expensive as they are.

The ‘designer’ sunglasses vs. the ‘high street’ sunglasses

The modern market for sunglasses is, for me, rather ridiculous. Despite the fact that more and more designs are utterly hideous and actually detract from the individual appeal of the wearer, they actually use the poor person as an advertising board; and the amazing thing is, more and more people stump up more and more cash for ever bigger logos; ever bigger writing. It is the bizarre reverse of the world of advertising space; where larger fonts and space cost the manufacturer the premium. Huge sunglasses, emblazoned with the gilt interlocking initials of a designer are usually massively overpriced. They are made using the same plastic as high street glasses and have the same levels of protection from the sun.

However, I have experienced ‘quality’ problems with high street sun-specs. Screws have come loose too easily, nose rests have mysteriously been lost and, due to the lack of a complementary proper protective case, lenses have become scratched. In comparison, as an example, my mother has a pair of Ray Ban Wayfarers, still going strong after 25 years. With sunglasses, you are likely to get better value for money with a ‘designer’ pair, despite what people might scoff about ‘losing them’ – personally, when I pay more for something I generally take better care of it. Choose a brand like Oliver Peoples, Persol or Ray-Ban to avoid turning your head into a billboard.

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A Good, Honest Umbrella

The text read: “You’ll know this Simon, where do I get a great umbrella in London?” It was from my cousin Harry, but I’m embarrassed to say I didn’t know what to answer.

Being absent-minded at the best of times, I’ve never spent more than five pounds on an umbrella. Even the free brollies from various law firms that litter the office get lost. I take them out when it’s raining, and they get left on the tube, the bus, the Pret a Manger counter. I once bought what seemed a rather nice umbrella from Muji for five pounds. Full-length, a mossy green and smart without being boring. It got left on the bus on the way home.

Ashamed by my lack of brolly knowledge, I didn’t reply to Harry. Being the sort of wandering fellow he is, though, he spent the next hour exploring Bloomsbury and its environs. And I got a triumphant text: “Found the most brilliant umbrella shop. Old, musty, lovely men inside. Didn’t buy anything, but there was a great one with a sword inside.”

The only thing he could tell me was that it was on New Oxford Street. But a bit of research easily identified his find as James Smith & Sons, purveyors of fine umbrellas, sticks and canes since 1830.

From the website it looked as though most of the umbrellas would be out of my price range. With city umbrellas starting at £79, it would be foolish to spend that amount of money on something that could be lost of the train back to Dulwich.

For the sake of research more than anything else, I wandered in there last week – not intending to buy anything, but merely to gain sufficient knowledge of the place to be able to answer a text (and perhaps its detailed follow-up) the next time around. 
The inside felt practical. Rough and ready, with a taste of sawdust in the air. Somehow, a place so unpretentious makes you feel that you are implicitly getting value for money. The sheen and gloss of a fashion brand may seem alluring, but you know you’re paying a sizeable premium for that excitement, that sense of belonging. At no point does it seem honest.

Anyway, turns out James Smith does a rather nice range of city umbrellas that start at £39. For your handle there’s a choice of cane, redwood and a rather rough wood that looks as if has just been hacked off a nearby trunk. They are long-lasting, and can be repaired at any time on site.

I opted for redwood, and am rather pleased with it. It’s lovely to extend that feeling of luxury or tradition to another part of your attire. I really hope I don’t leave it on the train.

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A Hole in the Made-to-Measure Market

The problem with made-to-measure suits in most of Europe is that they are an afterthought.

Most of the high-street brands offer made-to-measure, where a tailor takes somewhere between eight and twenty measurements and creates a block for the factory to make your suit by. Hackett offers it, Austin Reed offers it. So do Aquascutum and foreign chains such as Massimo Dutti, or American chains such as Brooks Brothers.

But they are all afterthoughts – a desk and book of swatches lies at the back of the store, waiting without much anticipation for that customer who wants something a little more personal.

And that is how it is often sold, as the opportunity to customise your suit or shirt. Pick your lining, pick your buttons, have your initials sown into the cuff. Well if that’s all you want, it would be a lot easier to take your shirts to a tailor willing to sow something onto them for you. Or even to replace the lining.

The real selling point of made-to-measure (one that is rarely used in these high street stores – as they rarely try to sell the service at all) is that the suit actually fits. Few people can pick up a suit which is measured by one thing – your chest size – and have it fit them well. Even if you pay for a few alterations here and there.

As the subject of my last posting, Hardy Amies has it: “Normal figure: There is no such animal. You may be ‘stock’ size so far as chest and leg measurements are concerned, but it is 99% certain that you will have some idiosyncrasy of figure that makes you not abnormal but simply individual.”

Everyone should buy made-to-measure if they can. And they may be able to, thanks to the launch of Suit Supply in the UK. This Dutch brand launched on December 12 last year, setting up shop at 9 Vigo Street – at the head of Savile Row. It offers made-to-measure from £300 for its English wools and £600 for the Italians.

It can be that cheap because everything is geared to economies of scale. It has its own factory. It can mass-order fabrics. It offers the three most popular colours (mid-grey, charcoal, navy) at the cheapest price, because these are ordered in the greatest volume. As made-to-measure is its main business, there is someone on the shop floor dedicated to that service.

A computerised ordering system tells the factory immediately whether your stance is stooped or straight, whether your right arm is a little shorter than your left, and how high up you like the waist of your trousers. It is made-to-measure, made efficient.

(Have a look at www.suitsupply.co.uk. The website is pretty fun as well – try dragging the pictures around! Those in the US, you may have to wait a while for this to come your way. It’s only Belgium, the Netherlands and the UK so far.)

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New Books on Men’s Style for the New Year

I love books. If my wife would let me line each room of the house them, I would. In my study, I have a wall of bookshelves stuffed with volumes ranging from physics to interior design, presidential biographies to etiquette guides, and poetry to world history. In this New Year, I have added a few titles to my menswear and clothing section so I have a few books to recommend.

Personally, I think every guy should have a few books that can help him get dressed for the day. As an information junky and writer, I have amassed a fairly large collection on menswear including books, guides, magazines and clippings. In fact, I just did a quick count and discovered that I have 37 menswear-specific books.

It’s not a collection just for the sake of having one. To me, each one of those books is a source of inspiration not a rulebook – though some authors seem to think theirs is the only way to dress. Don’t hold fast to any one recommendation or opinion. Take it all in, decide what you like and leave the rest.

With that disclaimer in place, here are some suggestions for your reading pleasure:

Men’s Style: The Thinking Man’s Guide to Dress
This has replaced G. Bruce Boyer’s “Elegance - A Guide to Quality in Menswear” as my hands down favorite menswear book. I never thought the day would come.

Russell Smith is perhaps one of the best menswear writers out there. If you only read the introduction, titled “why bother?” it is worth the purchase price. He succinctly and with great wit explains why you should want to dress well. If you read on, it only gets better.

Smith’s sense of style is classic and his opinions pointed – like how he eviscerated any thoughts I had of ever wearing a white suit a la Tom Wolfe. Oh well – I still have the white bucks.

Overall, it is an excellent book for someone who already has a pretty good handle on his own sense of style and is now ready for the advanced class. Not a lot of images, but the excellent writing takes care of that.

Details Men’s Style Manual: The Ultimate Guide for Making Your Clothes Work for You
One of the best all around resource books I’ve seen in a long time. If you need to figure out where to start – start here. This book is a production of the crew at Details Magazine and they’ve done a fine job. Lots of pictures and sidebars add to the constant flow of sartorial information.

This is good book when you are looking for an all-in-one resource. From suits to jeans, sweaters to formalwear, most every angle is touched on. Several chapter topics are paired with a celebrity style guru offering their personal “Rules of Style.”

Esquire’s Big Black Book
OK, so it’s not really a book, but it’s not really a magazine either. This is the second year that Esquire has produced this style guide and though much of the content is “of the moment” it is a wonderful look book from which to get ideas. It covers all aspects of men’s products and luxuries, from watches to suits, to snazzy hunting duds and essays like the making of cashmere.

Mark your calendar to pick up next year’s copy; it should hit the shelves sometime in early December.

Ralph Lauren
If you are a fan of Mr. Lauren you should get this book if for no other reason than its value as a novelty. It is massive. I am contemplating getting an iron frame stand made for it so that this volume can double as a coffee table.

OK, maybe I’m exaggerating a little bit, but it is an awfully large and expensive book. It’s all for good though, because it literally contains the entire visual history of Ralph Lauren the company. If you can think of a favorite advertising campaign, it’s in there.

I recommend this as style inspiration/resource guide because Lauren is a genius when it comes to tapping the emotional core of style and design. Just leafing through a few pages will give you style ideas to last a month.

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