Re-using the Denim Jacket

I am often surprised by the number of friends and acquaintances of mine who admit to owning, though rarely using, a jacket constructed of denim. I am a monumental hypocrite in this regard, as I still own one bought earlier in my youth; one which I enjoyed wearing with smart black trousers, a white shirt, a slim black tie and black loafers.

Though not an offensive aesthetic in retrospect, it is fair to say that I have moved on – in both age and style – since those days and, though I cherish the fond memories of wearing the jacket as well as wrapping it around the shoulders of ludicrously underdressed young ladies on a stumble home, I have not found many uses for it recently.

This is not without trying, as I have often attempted to mix it into an ensemble for an evening’s fun on the town. The trouble is, I look at the jacket and see myself eight or nine years ago; a cocky, floppy-haired whippet. As I scan up to my aging face, conservative hairstyle and tired eyes, it becomes clear that I need to rethink my continual efforts to reincorporate it into my regular wardrobe. Call it age denial, call it sentimentality, but I cannot find the courage to bin the thing. Instead of being anti the denim jacket aesthetic, I have come to the conclusion that I simply don’t understand it anymore.

However, on pondering its removal to make some much needed space in my reserve wardrobe, I thought through some potential ensembles which, come the spring, may be worth attempting. It is often worn with matching jeans, which is a disastrously studied and dated look, though there are some who wear it with denim of a contrasting tone and texture; a stonewashed jacket with new denim, and vice versa. However, I think it is best deployed when no other denim is on show, particularly with khaki chinos; it needs to stand out, and therefore needs contrasting materials and colours.

This is perhaps why, in my mind, a suitable spring ensemble for a denim jacket might be a pair of slim fitting khakis, a white shirt, a denim jacket and a pair of sockless penny loafers. Arguably, still a youthful look but one which a man nearing thirty has more confidence in attempting. Adventurous chaps may wish to add a seersucker bow tie to prep it up and, for the Layerists, to button up a slim-fitting denim jacket under a cream trench; keeping it Americana-but-still-Ivy-League will prevent it going the way of the cowboy hat.

The Alternative Trench

“You look like Inspector Gadget!” one friend cried as the other shuffled into his cream trench coat, flashing the Burberry check lining.

I always remembered this put-down as it reminded me of the frequent misfortune of iconic association; like those who hear Rossini’s William Tell Overture and think of ‘The Lone Ranger’ or those who point to my bow tie and say ‘Hey! Doctor Who!’ Some wardrobe items, when abused by popular culture, acquire a one-channel relevance for all those who were otherwise unaware. The trench coat is a piece of classic outerwear and one of the most practical methods of protecting our finely crafted suits from the persistent and uncaring elements. And yet, in its default colourings of buff, khaki or cream it can have an overtly theatrical and cliché effect.

This was a primary concern of a reader who wanted to know which colour of raincoat, besides the traditional, was most acceptable. Whilst I did spend some time in my response trying to convince him that the traditional colouring was still the most favourable as it would age better, I did concede that not all who look upon a long coat the colour of desert sand, with buttoned epaulettes and a buckled belt see Humphrey Bogart but rather, cartoonish ridicule. Speaking of which, the reader had already ruled out several colours for similar reasons; red (“I’m not Carmen San Diego either…”) black (“Black raincoats look too sinister”) and royal blue (“A friend has one…it’s way too attention seeking.”)

Though there are plenty of colours left, there are few that are suitable for a smart trench and I was dreading – with this reader’s reticence to experiment – that the choice was being pushed toward navy blue; the default tone for gentlemen of fear. There is no doubt that navy blue would be a smart alternative to the traditional tones, and is often better for gentlemen of fair complexion, but it was too hackneyed a second choice to recommend on its own, without other alternatives.

Moss green is not the first colour associated with rain coats, despite it’s associations with the trenches of the First World War which, unsurprisingly, is the reason for its nickname. It is a subtle green which is not horn-honkingly different to draw too much attention, and smart enough to adapt to elegant ensembles. One of the best things about a moss green coat is the wonderful contrast with various shades of blue – ideal for the classic navy suit enthusiast - as well as its compatibility with grey and brown.

However, against black, the moss green somehow loses its way; it dies against the lifelessness of the tone. Make way for the grey trench; apart from white, there are few tones which complement black better than grey. Monotone palettes might be, well, monotonous to some, but they are the smartest solution for those who favour colour-killing block black. In this circumstance, a black raincoat may indeed be too much, and there is no doubt that a navy would clash horrendously, but when our Reservoir Dog slips into a mid-grey belted mac, there will be nods of unexpected approval.

Reader Question: Classic Style at the Workplace with Business Casual Dress Code

I am graduating college in 6 months, have had a few unpaid internships, and all of a sudden find myself with the chance at an incredible job.  I have read a few of your articles on suits on a budget, I especially liked the one on maximum shirt and tie combo (http://www.mensflair.com/style-advice/five-shirts-three-ties.php), but I had a couple of questions.

1. How much does classic style differ from region to region?  I’m hoping to work in Silicon Valley and from my experience, the atmosphere is much more relaxed.  Ties are uncommon, jeans with a buttondown shirt is very common.  Keeping in mind a recent graduate’s budget, how can I straddle the line and look laid back but not sloppy, and not overdressed/classic?

2. Operating in this internship and the interview process, I have found myself in a variety of situations.  I have been invited to dinner, afternoon family tea, breakfast/lunch, as well as a semi-touristic visit to the city.  I always visit the site to understand what is best to wear, but how do I make the transition from a sloppy, sports memorabilia-wearing college student, to a Silicon Valley professional on a budget?

Dear Graduate,

First let me thank you for your e-mail and congratulate you on your exciting new position. I thought I’d answer this question in two parts. Part 1 will cover a few general principles which should help you. In the second part we will cover the ‘core wardrobe’ concept and I’ll list those key items I’d buy if I were in your position.

1. Find a look that works for you, and if you can a role model or two

The essence of your question, as I see it, is how can I dress well when the environment I work in has a relaxed view of business dress? This is a problem that many men face, particularly if they work in the creative industries, though not an insurmountable one. Sadly, from what I observe on the Tube each day most men make a complete hash of it. They don’t look well dressed and casual, merely scruffy.

I’ve always defined classics as items of clothing and looks that flatter the wearer and all those who subsequently adopt them. This is why they stand the test of time and translate the world over. While regional variation is a factor, it’s not so big a factor as you might think. While an English suit is different from an Italian suit they are still fundamentally the same thing. The devil lies in the detail of construction and silhouette.

I guess my first bit of advice is don’t get hung up on any one idea of classic dressing. If I asked you to list some classic dressers I’d bet that it would be dominated by men whose principle mode of dress is formal, suited and booted. But in my view Steve McQueen is one of the great all time classic casual dressers, managing to look good, comfortable and at ease all at once. Except in a few film roles, like the iconic Thomas Crown Affair, the man almost never wore a suit. His ubiquitous Baracuta G9 ( Harrington jacket) is in some circles, including my own, considered a classic. But there is nothing formal or flash about a Harrington. The same can be said of button down shirts, chinos and even jeans; but they are classics and can be made to work to wonders. This brings me neatly to my next point.

2. Remember the three F’s: Fit, Fit and Fit

What really sets apart one man from another in terms of dress is the fit of the clothes he wears. If your clothes fit properly they will flatter you and you will always look smarter that the man who ignores this; that applies whether you’re in the same type of clothing as the man next to you or you’re in jeans and a shirt and he’s in a suit. Poorly fitting clothes no matter their cost or type never look good. This lesson is true whether you’re skin and bone or a hefty unit. An example of this in my case is jeans. I freely admit I buy Gap jeans. I’ve tried designer label pairs but they are usually too short in the drop and too tight around the seat and crotch. That’s not to say Gap’s are always perfect in every other regard. But I can get that fixed and do so. I’ll have them shortened and hemmed and will even get the legs tailored either from the knee down or mid thigh depending on how sharp I want them to look. Whatever you buy take the time and make the effort to get it altered by a good alterations tailor. In my case this always pays a dividend over and above anything I might achieve by spending more money on the jeans in the first place. As it happens the cost including alterations works out cheaper.

The only exception to this rule is when it comes to jacket shoulders. Few things look as cheap as an overly large jacket shoulder. They are a nightmare to fix so you’d be better advised to simply return the garment to the rack. If necessary find a different label to buy your jackets from.

3. Don’t be too proud

Money is no bar to dressing well. Indeed, as the point above also highlights, it can sometimes be a hindrance if it inclines you to believe that simply by spending money on clothes the job is done.

Find clothes that fit and require the minimum of corrective surgery no matter what the retailer. There is a lot of snobbery concerning clothing and it’s easy to get caught up in it. Find retailers that work for you and stick to them regardless of the conventional wisdom. And that can include vintage and second hand outlets. It doesn’t matter how you acquire what you need to acquire, only that you acquire it. While these days I have my suits, jackets, and trousers made for me that wasn’t always the case. But even when I was a low paid Researcher I still had a lovely wardrobe of bespoke suits because I cheated. Mine were vintage suits, some from Savile Row, but they fitted far better than any off the peg suit I could afford. Of course your wardrobe requirements are unlikely to extend to Savile Row suits but you get the point.

4. The Devil is in the detail

The reason for picking some of the pictures above was to illustrate this very point. You can still dress casually and look laidback and comfortable without being sloppy, and it’s the details that make a difference. If we look at Steve McQueen it’s the sunglasses and Tartan lining of his G9 which raises the game. On the chap in the middle photo it’s the belt which ties the look together whilst adding a touch of personality and interest. In the far right hand picture the use of suede and the coloured socks add luxuriance and interest to a pair of ordinary ecru jeans and in the bottom left hand picture it’s not the yellow mac that makes the look but the tie which at once raises the game. In each case a subtle detail uses contrast to make a statement and develop the look beyond the humdrum constituent parts.

These rules apply no matter the type of clothing or the size and shape of the body in them. In the next post I’ll provide a few specific examples of what would work as a core wardrobe for someone on a low budget and working in a casual dress environment.

From the Beginning, From a Beginner

This is a guest post by Trent Beven

It’s a new year with new resolutions (or a revision of last year’s) and there are probably a few people out there who have sworn to never go to the supermarket in track pants again and hopefully a few who’s aims are even higher. There are a lot of good articles on this and other websites about how to build a good wardrobe so I’m not going to touch on that. Here are some practical tips for those just starting out to compliment general advice on wardrobe building you read elsewhere.

Don’t rush yourself
I decided I’d like to wear neck ties without being obliged to do so. They fit in well without looking “too formal” at an art opening or taking your girl out for cocktails. But now, when I look at the first few ties I bought all I can think is “business dad”. Not the style I’m aiming for. So don’t let your eagerness for a new style of dress get the better of you. You are only starting to discover how wide you want your ties to be, in what fabrics and in what patterns (not to mention the scale of the patterns). Inform yourself with a variety of articles on the subject and then look at some of the blogs dedicated to photographing style to see how people make each item work for them (no article of clothing is an island).

Don’t overdo it
Please make sure you heed this advice. Dressing well doesn’t mean dressing formal or stuffy. I hate to think of the times when I was extremely overdressed instead of looking smart and relaxed with dark blue jeans and a well fitting gingham shirt as would have been appropriate.

Spend a bit extra
When you can and when you’ve refined your taste a little, it’s great to spend a bit extra on something nicer than usual.
I’d recommend a good pair of shoes for two reasons. Firstly because the more you spend the longer they last (which is great while your building a wardrobe) and secondly because most men do poorly here, so getting it right will make you really stand out.
A tie, be it neck or bow, wouldn’t be a bad idea either. Sometimes you have to pay a bit extra for that extra panache. Provided that you don’t get yourself into scuffles your tie shouldn’t come across much harm so it will last for decades.

Quick tips
• Spend a little on getting your jeans hemmed, not just your suit pants.
• Buy a variety of belts, maybe start with two which you can wear casually and one more formal.
• Don’t be afraid of wearing something you wouldn’t think of a few months ago; that’s the point of change.
• Don’t underestimate the little details.
• You should learn the rules but not always follow them. I wear tan semi-brogue shoes with light grey suit pants and a blue and white boxcloth belt. By basic rules this combo shouldn’t work, but it really does

This is all something you should enjoy, so don’t take it to seriously, get excited and enjoy yourself.

Trent Beven is a fine arts graduate in rural Australia with weakness for fine hats, blazers and american folk songs.

The Way You Wear Your Hat: The Bow Tuck

As I was wandering along the platform at a tube station, I noted the remarkable number of men, many of advanced years, with untucked shirt tails. One of these men, a solid looking chap of about fifty years, stood squinting at the dot-matrix, posed in a pair of well-cut jeans, a cord jacket and a red candy striped shirt which was untucked. Everything else in the ensemble was neat; the jacket was a decent length and fit; the jeans slim and tidy and his shoes, polished and of a high quality. It was simply nonsensical that a man with such attire should neglect, or at least contrive to neglect, to tuck his shirt in.

When recounting the story with a friend, he agreed that shirts should be tucked in but suggested that the rule of tucking was an uncertain one as there are many things which should never be tucked in. Among these were the jumper, the waistcoat and the bow and neck tie. On the last two, I disagreed. I think that tucking a tie into a pair of trousers, whilst unusual, is not offensive and have indulged in the practice on many occasions. Tucking in a bow tie is an altogether different proposition and, although very unusual, has an impressive precedence

One of my first recollections of the practice was Hurd Hatfield as Dorian Gray who wore nothing but turn-down collars in the 1944 film version of Oscar Wilde’s novel. However, it wasn’t until I became a young devotee of the Jeremy Brett Sherlock Holmes series that I noticed the practice was not due to a ‘special’ bow tie but simply a regulation bow which had been tucked inside the collar. Being of an experimental nature, I tried this myself on a couple of occasions. One friend I encountered was so offended by it that he untucked it and claimed it was an affectation.

I must admit that when I caught myself in the mirror, it did not look quite right; rather like a flower without its petals, or a butterfly without its wings. And yet, it still strikes me as a unique and, though certainly affected, serious way to wear an accessory that otherwise lacks seriousness. You can never appear stern in a bow tie; you can never appear silly in a bow tuck. The severity of it is perhaps why it does not appeal to many people, aside from tidy-minded dandies with immaculately ordered armoires and symmetrically arranged furniture.

It is important that to attempt one of the bow tucks, the correct type of bow and the correct size of knot is used. For the ‘bar’ effect, the straight Charvet-style bow, not the bat wing is used. For the correct size of knot, it needs to be large enough to accommodate the space between the collar as Hatfield’s does.

The alternative is to use a bat wing and have it form an arch instead of a bar, as Depp’s does in the photo, affecting a looser, less formal style.