Reader Question: Office Casual, Part 2

[In the first part of this post, I answered a query from Ed about how to dress up at work while remaining a little casual – getting interested in dressier clothes without going all the way to a suit. My first reply dealt with leather shoes and casual ties – a great way to dress up jeans and still look casual.]

The second part of this post will deal with jackets and trousers.

Now, one commentator on the first part suggested that the real progression for dressing up should be: shoes, shirts, trousers, jackets, ties, suits; in that order. Ed will already be focusing on the first two, but how one deals with the next three is really a matter of personal choice and experimentation.

If we reversed trousers and jackets in that suggested order, I would describe it as a straightforward and traditional scale (these days I think a smarter jacket, say in flannel or cotton, is a much more realistic step to take before smartening up your trousers – both can look great with jeans).

However, the suggestion I made to Ed regarding shoes and ties was not a traditional one. It is a personal preference, and one that is more suited to a younger audience – it is probably more fashionable as well. Having spoken to Ed, I know this is something that will suit him better.

But it is only one suggestion. And tying yourself into any kind of rigid order is both depressing and suppressing – it discourages that experimentation you were keen to try in the first place.

So on Monday Ed might opt for a wool tie and brown brogues, under a casual coat, with jeans. On Tuesday he may go for a smarter, odd jacket – in camel hair, say – and dispense with the tie. Perhaps pairing it with suede shoes if the weather’s nice. Wednesday could witness a flirtation with tweed trousers.

The point is to achieve the right balance of casual and formal that Ed is looking for overall while always looking for variation. A friend remarked to me recently that surely wool ties should go with odd jackets (sports jackets to American readers). Well, yes, traditionally they should, but wear those two with corduroy trousers and red socks and you’ll look like a stereotype – a costume of a country gentleman (see previous posting When Style Becomes Costume). Tradition only takes you so far.

The beauty of men’s style is taking some of these elements and mixing them up; making them your own, while always keeping in mind the reasons they went together originally. Here, every element of the country gentleman’s outfit is united by being more casual than the city suit. So if you want to make an outfit more casual, insert one of these items – a wool tie with a suit, for example.

Keep the reasons for tradition in mind and you can’t go far wrong. This is what is meant by breaking the rules.

Given this, I think Ed will be able to make a decent stab and what jackets and trousers I will suggest if he wants to vary his slightly dressed up look. (Hint: Go for more casual materials, never worsted wool.)

Bookmark, Share or Email this article   •  Leave a Comment

Reader Question: Office Casual, Part 1

Ed, London: Office attire where I work is very casual – a lot of jeans and t-shirts, with only very senior people wearing suits. I’d like to incorporate some more formal or dressy items into my work attire but don’t want to stand out too much. What would you suggest?

I’d start with ties and shoes. Retain the casual benchmark that is a pair of jeans, and try adding smarter shoes and/or knitted ties.

Leather shoes are a whole world of joy, as I’m sure you’ll have realised if you’ve read this blog for very long. Many collectors of upmarket shoes wear them as much with jeans as suits, and doing so gives you a greater range of choices. If you’re going to opt for leather shoes with jeans, bear the following things in mind:

- Shoes with greater bulk or pattern are more casual. So go for brogues or wing-tips. The heavier look of patterned and layered leather shoes makes them sit more comfortably with heavy materials like flannel and denim.
- Suede is a lovely casual option but can be hard to maintain. Make your second or third pair of smart shoes a brown or ginger leather. That way you always have an alternative if it looks a bit wet out (don’t wear suede in the rain if you can help it).
- Go for brown. Whether chocolate, tan or blond, brown shoes will go best with jeans. Black makes you look like a schoolboy and other colours can be hard to wear effectively. (My only exception is red leather, which I think can look great with indigo denim.) Broadly speaking, the darker the brown the darker the jeans should be. But there is much greater flexibility here than with suits.
- Get a good-quality leather belt in a similar hue to wear with your shoes. Again, there is greater flexibility than with suits as to matching the shoes to the belt. But try and find something similar (two browns should be sufficient for all shades of shoe).

Next, ties. Wear a well-fitting shirt with the jeans (all important considering that there will likely be no jacket to cover the shirt). It should fit well both at the waist and at the neck – nothing would remove this outfit’s crispness more than an undone shirt collar.

For ties, anything is good apart from regular silk. Wool works well, as the duller texture suits the trousers and shoes more than silk – which complements polished shoes and worsted wool far better. Particularly good are the narrower, square-ended wool ties.

In that same vein, knitted silk can also work well. It has a shinier hue but the texture makes it inherently more casual. Also cottons or cotton/silk mixes.

This gives you two fantastic areas of menswear to plunder. It should go without saying that the jeans should be traditional and straight cut. No drainpipes or flares please.

(I’m warming to this subject. The next post will explain why textures are the key to getting Ed’s combinations right when he wants to add a jacket or vary the trousers.)

Bookmark, Share or Email this article   •  Leave a Comment

Be Not Afraid of Shorts

As I write, the rain pours relentlessly outside my window. Victoria Tower, which should be gleaming in the early evening August sun, is grey and indistinct. Rain has been the consistent feature of this particularly British summer and it is mightily depressing. However, I am determined to be resistant to meteorological circumstances. Summer, whatever is left of it, can still be enjoyed and it was the thoughts of warmer weather (in foreign lands) that turned my attention to the gentleman’s short trouser.

I think many chaps think of shorts in the same way they think of sun cream; one of those irritating aspects of summer that have to be acknowledged for reasons of comfort. They’re widely considered to be inelegant and overtly boyish, which causes gentlemen of distinctly mature style to recoil in fear at the thought of having to wear them. To abandon their finely tailored trousers for a sawn-off version is somewhat distressing, particularly given their reluctance in displaying naked flesh.

In my opinion, the short is not to be feared. It is certainly possible to make terrible mistakes but the matter is really quite simple; attention to length, material, colour and ensemble will produce very good results.

Length

Although many chaps believe longer shorts hide imperfect knees and thighs and make you look ‘younger’ (by the accident that younger men tend to wear surfer-style shorts) in actual fact, longer shorts have a detrimental consequence on even the most beautiful of legs. They have the effect of making the calves look rather shorter than they are which has the overall result of making one’s legs look shorter, which makes you look short and badly proportioned, particularly if you happen to be a diminutive chap in the first place. The longest shorts should sit just above the knee; anything else is oversized and inappropriate. If you find yourself looking in the mirror thinking to yourself ‘But, in these short-shorts I look… rather boyish’ you’ve got the right pair. Shorts ARE boyish, which is part of their appeal.

Material

Cotton is a popular material in short manufacture; lightweight and easy to clean. However, more and more linen shorts are on the market which is pleasing as they make a welcome ‘textured’ change from the plain cottons. Silk shorts are even rarer and, although I can appreciate the sartorial candour of strutting around the marina in some marvellous printed silk, they aren’t exceedingly practical and you could be mistaken for being inappropriately attired in high-priced underwear. Avoid denim and corduroy.

Colour

If shorts are an insignificant part of the wardrobe, it is wise to choose versatile, simple colours to adapt to the other items in the ensemble. A mid blue, not navy, is a more practical colour as it is far easier to pair with black; khaki is very safe, but also very elegant and white, although certain readers might be perplexed at the suggestion of such a ‘sporty’ colour, is cool and fresh and complements tanned legs marvellously well. Those who are more short-savvy might wish to consider sky blues, seersucker and even plaids.

And finally…

Try to avoid wearing socks with shorts. The leg looks best when its line, between shoe and short cuff, has not been interrupted by a little fold of cotton. Consequently, many gentlemen will prefer to wear sandals, espadrilles or driving shoes for comfort as harder shoes, without socks, can be awfully rough. The key with short footwear is to avoid unnecessary ‘size’; ruling out clumpy-soled shoes like trainers. There should be minimal tread; anything worn with shorts should frame the foot and nothing more.

Do not avoid wearing shirts with shorts. Shirts look perfectly acceptable, in many cases preferable, to grubby t-shirts. Folding up the cuffs is a good way to match the informality of the shirt to the shorts.

Casual jackets and blazers look great with shorts, provided they are as acceptably fitting as the shorts themselves. I think it’s advisable to avoid too much length in the jacket at all times, but this is particularly pertinent in relation to shorts; think ‘short trousers = short jacket.’

Belts are another way to add a different texture or tonal quality to the short material but try and avoid using them for camera clips or money bags; carry a bag instead, it looks much better and is more secure.

Bookmark, Share or Email this article   •  Leave a Comment

Introducing the Lazy Fold

Sometimes, just occasionally, I change my mind. While the didactic style of some of these postings might suggest a singleness of purpose, an almost obstinate point of view, I am open to the possibility of evolution. The stuffing of a handkerchief is one such occasion.

In one of my earliest posts on this blog, Tips on Stuffing, I outlined the three most popular ways to arrange a silk handkerchief: pulling the centre to the bottom of the pocket, thus exposing the points; vice versa, exposing the puff; and combining the two by folding the handkerchief in half, displaying both the centre and points.

I used to be a puff person. Exposing the points seemed a little affected except on a special occasion (my wedding, for example, though that was a linen handkerchief). And the folded, combination option does not leave anything at the bottom of the pocket and therefore tends to slip down during the day.

The puff was practical by comparison and a little more understated. However, it had a number of weaknesses, chief amongst which was that differently sized hankies would puff at different heights out of the pocket. The tips could be folded down inside the pocket in order to adjust the height, but that rather defeats the simplicity of the technique and could take a few attempts to get just right.

Instead I revert to what I have christened the Lazy Fold. Stuff one corner of the handkerchief into the pocket until you feel it touch the bottom. Then fold over the rest and stuff it behind, leaving as much silk exposed as you desire.

It’s easy but surprisingly effective. Height is easier to adjust, it’s quick and it never has to be done more than once. What’s more, the fold you create above the pocket is slightly different every time, creasing in a different place. This creates a more casual, less studied look. (Something you want to strive to do with a handkerchief as it will look, to most, rather studied already.)

As a footnote, I also find that if I want to highlight the border pattern of the handkerchief a fold is better than a stuff. This is in direct contrast with my previous posting, which advocated exposing the tips to achieve this effect, and relegated folding to cotton or woollen handkerchiefs.

That is the traditional approach. But in this case I believe I was (whisper it) wrong. It is very hard to display the points of a silk handkerchief without it appearing affected, at least in a business setting – which is where I would be wearing mine almost exclusively.

Try a normal TV Fold instead, with the edges uppermost; it is more subtle. I consider myself evolved.

Bookmark, Share or Email this article   •  Leave a Comment

The Colors of Summer

When it comes to summer dressing, most men like the idea of adding a little shot of color to their ensemble. At the same time there is normally trepidation when it comes to modulating that extra splash of liveliness. When does a little become too much? How can I show some personality without looking like a caricature?

I am reminded of a fellow I saw on the street last year on a steamy summer day. He was wearing the loudest pants I’d ever seen. They looked remarkably like sofa cushions from a 1950s Florida vacation house; bright orange with giant palm fronds and parrots printed all over them. These pants actually hurt my eyes. But the guy wearing them looked cool as a cucumber; relaxed and suave in sockless loafers and a crisp white oxford.

Though most of us would run the other way when presented with such an outfit, it worked on this gentleman because it fit his particular personality. For the rest of us, spicing up the warm weather wardrobe will likely include less extravagant exercises in color. Though we still need to dress professionally for the work week– or at least wear long pants – there is still room for personal style in manageable increments.

As a general rule, please do not make the mistake of thinking that dressing for summer weather means wearing togs better suited to the beach or a weekend cookout. Always assume that someone important will need to see you during the day and dress accordingly. How then do you “responsibly” add that bit of personal color? A favorite option of mine is to use accessories as a way to tone down the formality of office attire while still offering the world a little flash of style.

Ribbon watch straps a great option, especially for the summer. You’ll be amazed at how a preppy grosgrain or NATO strap can change the whole feel of your favorite wrist watch. Additionally, these straps give your timepiece a breezy, vintage feel. People will think that your dad wore it back when he was studying archaeology at Yale.

Smart Turnout makes some of the best ribbon straps; from British military unit colors to England’s venerable colleges – even American Ivy’s – you can find something that fits your personal style. They are easy to swap around, so keep a drawer full and match your watch your watch to your mood. If needed, invest in the little tool that allows you to remove the pins which hold most watch bands in place – it makes life easier.

Belts are another simple way to add color to your look while falling well within the bounds of great practical style. Tucker Blair needlepoint belts are a unique and thoroughly preppy way to add some fun and color to your summer wardrobe. Though a new company, Tucker Blair’s signature needlepoint belts are a classic in a New Englandy sort of way. They are an instant classic as well; each one is a little work of art and an instant heirloom. They truly are unique and speak to both New England clambakes and Low Country boils.

Ribbon belts are a popular and less expensive way to give your style a little punch. Great companies like J. Crew, J. Press, and Gap offer stripes, critters, solids and plaid versions that make choosing one an easy exercise in personal messaging.

Another summer staple of the past that’s getting a new shot of life is patchwork madras. In the states at least, it seemed like back in the day everyone’s father had a shirt like this. Each year it was debuted at the family Memorial Day picnic and was kept busy all summer long.

Each washing left the cloth a little softer and a little more faded – the sign of true madras. Cape Madras, founded in 2004, has resurrected the real thing and built a unique company that is both dyed in the wool American and dyed in Madras, Indian. While the Cape Madras collection is designed by the creative team in the US, the company weaves all its own fabric designs in rural villages in India.

Unlike the traditional muted colors one associated with madras, they use colors not usually seen in traditional madras like bright pinks, greens and oranges. With offerings of shirts, shorts, jackets, pants, you can find a classic summery look for any occasion.

To add an extra layer of individuality, choose a signature, something that people will associate with you alone. A relative of mine wears round tortoise shell glasses. Since I can remember he has always worn them and by now anything else just wouldn’t look right. Since he is particularly Ivy League in his style of dress, the glasses give him a living Ralph Lauren ad persona. It’s just right on him. So, what’s your summer signature of personal style?

Bookmark, Share or Email this article   •  Leave a Comment