The Points of Choosing a Three-Piece Suit

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Three-piece suits are traditional suits with classic appeal. Made up of trousers, a jacket, and a vest or waistcoat, three-piece can up your style points instantly and add a completely different air to your professional dress.

The Jacket

The Collar

The collar of your jacket should fit against your neck, but without any of that buckling and pulling.

Shoulder Pads
Much-maligned shoulder pads can help you look more muscular. You can look trimmer overall, so while extreme shoulder pads don’t look good, average ones will.

Lapels
Choose high or low notch depending on what flatters your personal shape. Be sure that the lapels lie flat against your chest and don’t buckle uncomfortably.

Sleeves
Your sleeves should end where your wrist ends and your hand begins. A quarter inch of your shirt sleeve should show below the sleeves, but just check and make sure that you are comfortable. Stretch your arms out and bend them to verify that you’re comfortable moving in your suit.

Buttons

Use your buttons as a way of flattering your particular body shape. You should always leave the bottom button undone, and if you have an athletic build, you should have a low button stance below the lapels. Otherwise, try a high button stance to disguise any roundness.

Vents

Side vents can disguise a larger behind, while a single vent can work with most average body types and is a lot easier to find!

The Suit Waistcoat or Vest

The vest of your three-piece suit will commonly have a back adjuster so you can get just the right fit on yours. You can also use two side adjusters, which may be located on suits that are either hand-tailored or ones that have an original or unusual design. The vest should be adjusted so it fits smoothly against your torso, but make sure it’s comfortable for a full range of movement. Try your vest both sitting and standing to make sure that it doesn’t balloon or bind.

The Trousers

Check the fit of your trousers. The seat of the pants themselves should not bag or hang. Trousers should be the first thing fitted when you are getting professional tailoring or alterations done, and you should sit and stand to check the fit of your suit. Pinning can often change the length of your trouser legs, so it’s essential to get your tailor to pin the lines alterations instead of just chalking the marks. Your trousers can either be left plain or cuffed.

Waist
Avoid tight waistlines, which will only emphasize extra pounds. You need to be able to comfortably sit and slide your fingers into the waistband comfortably.

Pleats
Pleats look good on a man with a fuller stomach. Flaunt your thin figure without pleats!

Cuffs
While short men aren’t particularly flattered in cuffed trousers, taller men look good with cuffs. They add weight to the bottom of your slacks, but are recommended only up to 1 inch or 2.54 centimeters.

Shirt and Tie

Don’t forget about these essentials! You won’t just wear a three-piece suit without these. Plain white and blue shirts will certainly work, but don’t forget about some extra stylish combinations in more trendy colors. Match your tie accordingly, and depending on your office environment, you may want to try mixing in a pattern like an updated paisley or stripes.

Pattern and Colors

Try a solid color if you plan to wear your suit often or want it to be a wardrobe builder. You can also try pinstripe for an executive effect. Recommended colors for a three-piece suit are beige, navy, and gray. Black can be too severe, and green and tan can make your look to conservative.

Fabrics

Consider the right fabrics for your suit partially by climate and also by durability. Choose these recommended fabrics for your suit:

• Recommended fabrics are wool and wool blends: tweed, flannel, tropical, and worsted. Tropical is recommended for those in a hot climate who still want to look of wool.
• Cotton or linen can be impressive, but aren’t suitable for long wear.
• Avoid fabrics like rayon, corduroy, mohair, nylon, silk, or denim.


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Comments

  1. Yeosun Joon says:

    Great article. I just wrote a piece about a man’s guide to buying bespoke or MTM. I interviewed a noted English cutter, Simon Blair and American customer, Peter Klamka, on the benefits and the costs of bespoke.