A Request for Ideas
Given the obvious readership and interest there is in this blog, I thought I would throw a question out to the audience for the first time. I’m fascinated to hear people’s suggestions on a clothing situation of mine, rather than submit my opinions to you consistently.
I love suits and am happy to wear them much of the time. They fit in well to my business environment and are easy to highlight with additional touches – socks, shoes, handkerchiefs etc. However, I also like to experiment with odd jackets and trousers, for the sake of variation and for the added complexity that the patterns and materials bring – harmonising ties or handkerchiefs with the bolder patterns of hacking jackets, for example.
So far, so good. The problem is that these odd jacket/trouser combinations can easily tip into looking too traditional or flamboyant for my work environment. The unkind would say they can look too fuddy-duddyish. This is particularly true, for example, when I want to wear a tie with these outfits – perhaps grey flannels with a checked jacket, brown oxfords and a woollen tie. That definitely tips over into something out of place on one my age, and certainly in this environment. Even switching to a silk tie, or going for a silk handkerchief, is probably too much.
As a result, I often resort to jeans with odd jackets. Again, perfectly acceptable in my office and a good counter to the flamboyance of a woollen tie or a handkerchief. The jeans are narrow, dark and not too long. It works ok, but I constantly feel pulled towards the more traditional, the smarter options. I just find it more interesting.
Jeans work ok, but they feel a little like giving up. So my question to the group is: what compromise can I find between jeans and the more fuddy duddy odd trouser combinations?
Is the answer khakis or chinos that look a little more casual? I have noticed that fellow-blogger Winston often opts for pale pink jeans. Or are cords the key?
The classic American option is blue blazer with chinos or white ducks, but I don’t think that would work in a London office, at least not regularly. Or is the secret to avoid extraneous details when combining odd trousers and odd jackets, such as ties or handkerchiefs? (So the outfit, casual vs traditional, balances somewhat.)
This is not a question for the true traditionalists in the audience, who will probably tell me I should pull my socks up (literally, above the calf) and ignore any suspicions of the fuddy duddy. But that is not really my taste and, more importantly, is not really the work atmosphere.
I think combinations of odd jackets, trousers and various accessories are the most exciting and intriguing for men dressing today. They require the most thought and sophistication but also the greatest possibility of individual, startling success.
I will be fascinated to hear what others wear and what they suggest for me.
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I find the solution for making this look younger and more modern, but smarter than jeans, is to find good modern slim fitting pants (flat front no pleats or creases) in cotton or corduroy. This really tones down the effect that more formal trousers have and then allows me to throw more stylistic elements in the top of ensemble, without looking like an old man.
Comment by Nick — April 30, 2008 #
I think the way to avoid looking like a fuddy duddy is to let the checks of the jacket stand alone. I have a solid, textured, khaki-color, cashmere tie to pair with my busier jackets and vests. I also like the idea of checked trousers with a blazer either tie-less or with a muted repp stripe. Maybe I’ll look into that…
Comment by Tripp — April 30, 2008 #
Thanks guys, these are good tips, please keep them coming.
Nick, are there any brands you recommend for these trousers in cotton or corduroy? Do you find either works best with particular colour jackets?
Comment by Simon Crompton — April 30, 2008 #
In my own experience, playing around with the cut and material of the trousers keeps the look fresh (don’t want to say “modern” - my own ethos is about adhering to tradition without chasing trends). On the same train of thought, look into doing the same for the odd jackets, such as wearing them more fitted. On either garment, you will get away with a variety of fabrics and even colours if you’ve paid attention to overall fit and silhouette
As for colours, most cords will match up well to a black blazer or tweed jackets in the brown and grey spectrums (though this latter choice will match less cord colours, obviously). As for accessories, even I find getting away with squares and silk ties to be tough, but it’s not impossible. But knit and repp ties are very much the way to go
One other thing - footwear makes the difference too. A less traditional approach can also work wonders here. Though don’t take this as an indirect endorsement of trainers with these ensembles - that is truly giving up. Leave that to David Tennant - he’s the best at it
Comment by Barima — May 1, 2008 #
Simon,
This is such a personal decision, and as you mentioned this is not a question for the traditionalist, maybe I should have not answered in the first place, but regardless I will throw in my two cents on the matter as I have been in this situation once in my career. I think chinos and textured blazers are best reserved for the most casual of environments, even if combined, as we often do in the US, with a blue blazer. That look here is often seen with penny loafers. In my view, in most situations that is not an office look. It may not present a seriously professional attitude toward business. When I was on my first major job in architecture (in a world famous firm) our studio atmosphere was very casual, yet that stated when meetings took place, or even if an executive came in from Manhattan - everything regarding attire for me personally changed - straight into a dark traditional. It is something to consider, when I enter an office and am in a dark suit, white shirt and tie, dark shoes and I am confronted by an associate meeting me in a cord blazer and chinos, well you get the mental picture projected. I think it all depends on the type of business and the overall atmosphere of the field. If you are free not to wear suits on my occasions then I like what Tripp suggests a mix of pattern and solid. I too am fond of cord blazers and tweeds but I personally am straight lined on business attire, dark suits and shoes. Even in the US where this so-called ‘casual Friday’ dress code as been the norm for some time, not that it really matters in most US offices as there are few if any dress codes - the way most people show up for work in the US leans on embarrassment. I digress - the ‘casual Fridays’ are slowly being eliminated. Again, I do not know how casual your atmosphere but in most situations of a regular office I think Barima, Nick and Tripp have hit upon some important suggestions. I will add Barima nailed something significant - footwear makes the difference too! An example would be the classic cordovan penny loafers mentioned above, they could work for you Simon with what is being suggested but only if worn with socks (another American classic - no socks - yet that one twist can take most looks into resort wear.)
Nicola
Comment by Nicola Linza — May 1, 2008 #
I meant to add, classic jeans (not the often grossly overpriced, and ridiculous designer jobs seen around today,) I mean classic Wrangler jeans, can work wonders. I might add the idea of a man in very pale pink jeans is a witty and very chic concept. That is something I would also do, especially in Italy. Yet, I do not care to see jeans ever in the office (again referring to meetings or most business situations) on a man; this is regardless of texture or color. I know my father, albeit a different generation was not allowed to wear jeans, at all as a very young man. He thought them completely inappropriate for all situations outside of the countryside and I never saw him in a pair once in my life. I am adventurous so I think that is a bit severe today; yet to think that society has come to the point of considering wearing jeans in business, well that is a bit much, even to me. So, yes Simon to me jeans at work is a bit like giving up. Nicola
Comment by Nicola Linza — May 1, 2008 #
First off, fuddy-duddiness is a matter of attitude, not of dress. An engaging smile and a warm handshake will make you approachable even if you’re in a mortician’s black duds. Can you imagine, say, Fred Astaire (top hat, tails, and all) ever seeming like a stiff?
As for what specifically to wear, a lot of it depends on the specific environment. I’m an I.T. guy in the U.S. in my 30s, generally expected to come to work in something like “biz cas” attire, but I still almost always wear a tie and often a semi-formal dark brown wool vest I found years ago and love to pieces. When weather permits, I wear a blazer from J.C. Penney that was specifically designed to wear unbuttoned and with jeans, but it still looks fine with slightly more formal slacks. As for ties, my signature is the square-cut narrow knit tie as worn by Groucho Marx, which can be hard to find, I don’t mind telling you!
I out-dress my boss and most of my co-workers by a long stretch, not because I’m ambitious to move into management or anything along those lines, but just because it’s how I like to dress. But I laugh, smile, and joke with the people around me. If anyone were to comment on my being overdressed, I’d reply with a grin “It’s because I’m such a gigantic dandy!” and be done with it. Most people who’ve commented at all, have been very complimentary and expressed a wistful desire that more people would “dress up,” to which I reply, “Go to it and I look forward to seeing your efforts!”
-The Gneech
Comment by John "The Gneech" Robey — May 1, 2008 #
the made in Italy cotton twill pants for Fall sold by Brooks Brother in the slim cut fit are perfect and the color palette is outstanding
unfortunatly, I can’t just post a link because they’re out of season, but watch for them this Fall
very thick twill cotton with slim fitting flat front (Clark fit)
looks outstanding and young with tweed odd jackets and much better than kackis or jeans
colors are outstanding as well
basically they are the winter version of these pants on BB site now:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=492&Product_Id=503336&Parent_Id=220
Comment by Italiano — May 1, 2008 #
Simon,
My particular favorite brands are Banana Republic and Brooks Brothers, as they tend to have a really good fit on me. As for color combinations I stick mostly to tan/khaki with the pants for the look you are talking about. This works with pretty much any combination for your upper half, in the same way that white and blue shirts work for almost any suit/tie combos. I also liked the comment Barima made about shoes making a big difference. You need slim and sleek shoes to match with the slim trousers.
Comment by Nick — May 1, 2008 #
I am from Greece and currently live in Monte Carlo. Now that summer is here we wear a staple of clothing that is very much St. Tropez with a touch of Mykonos. That is all white or white pants with a white shirt and blue blazer with gold buttons. Linen is always the key fabric as is a lighter cotton. Karl Lagerfeld is the choice designer for this as is Salvatore Ferragamo and Louis Vuitton. I don’t know where you live and if this look will fit in where you are. White jeans are also a great look.
Comment by Caligula — May 1, 2008 #
Simon,
Have you considered a navy cardigan jacket. The fitted look of the knitted jacket can easily be matched with flannels, cords, jeans and even cotton. Can, on the other hand provide a you a traditional look, and at the same time, preppy. You can use with or without a tie and on top of that a pocket square will always do.
If you go with regular blazar and flannels, then take chances with your socks in bright colors.
Cheers !
Comment by Javier — May 13, 2008 #