There was once a time when most businessmen’s attire was dictated by dress codes. These codes were not necessarily written, rather they were an accepted part of a profession’s identity. Before the financial and political crises of the 1970s City bankers and civil servants were proud to sport bespoke suits, bowler hats and brollies. Nowadays, many professionals the world over wear the same uninspired business-casual uniform – an open-necked shirt and a pair of chinos – throughout the working week. In some circumstances turning up to work in a suit may actually be frowned upon by peers, who might view it as a case of one-upmanship and/or brown-nosing.
Does this sloppiness in men’s work attire indicate that we need to return to the days of strictly enforced dress codes? Perhaps not. Dressing smartly is more a reflection of how we feel about ourselves and how we want to be perceived by others. Stricter dress codes may result in more men turning up to work in suits, shirts and ties, but that doesn’t necessarily make them any smarter looking. In Japan, for example, a lot of companies still have dress codes; codes that usually prescribe a dark (preferably black) suit, white shirt, silk tie and leather shoes. Unfortunately, they don’t stipulate that clothing should fit the wearer properly and be in good repair. As a consequence, abysmally fitting suits and scuffed leather dress-shoe/trainer hybrids are an all too common sight. And, perhaps surprisingly, it is often members of the older generation who are the worst offenders.
Thanks to the hard work of traditional style advocates, and the ability of the internet to spread their ideas and bring sartorially-minded individuals together, a growing number of young men now know more about the cut of a suit, the subtleties of pattern mixing and the benefits of bench-made shoes than their fathers do. They’ve grown up in the business-casual era and joined workplaces that don’t have strict dress codes. Rather than impress a feeling of liberation, business-casual has created a new kind of conformity that they want to escape from. They dress smartly, and they do so because they want to.
If you’re reading this blog then the chances are you are already a pretty smart dresser. I also suspect that a lot of you like the idea of dressing smarter on a daily basis, but are worried that you might somehow be overdoing it when compared with your peers. I used to feel this way myself (and, to be totally honest, occasionally still do), but one day decided to throw caution to the wind. I soon discovered that I’d much rather be overdressed than underdressed. Once in the office I can always dress down by taking off my suit jacket or (heaven forbid) loosening my tie; it’s hard to dress up a polo shirt and khakis in the same way.
So, for you smart-dressing fence-sitters out there, try putting in the extra effort in for a few days and see how it goes. You might be pleasantly surprised by the response. In fact, you may find that dressing smartly actually encourages your peers to dress smartly as well.
I wholeheartedly agree. I’m a medical student in the US and am often appalled at the choices of some of the resident doctors. I have on more than one occasion seen blue jeans under a white coat. We medical professionals are seen as authorities and are trusted by our patients and I would hope that most patients expect their physicians to dress accordingly. Although, I do have a fondness for loosening my tie and unbuttoning the top button as a certain sprezzatura for those long sessions rounding on patients.
Though I rarely have the opportunity to wander the wards in a full suit the white coat is just as much a sartorial tool as anything else. All the more reason to keep it crisp and white.
Good points. I wear suits to work, but the enviroment is totally casual – not even business casual. It is all jeans, ill-fitting khakis, and t-shirts. I used to get strange looks but after seven years people take it in stride. They just don’t understand it. I tell them why should I wear to work what I wear cleaning out the garage? It is about me, not them.
The smart-casual dress code has been really abused. Where I work, only the top managers wear actual smart-casual (button-down shirt + trousers or chinos), the rest (mainly educated, intelligent software engineers) make a mockery of it with trainers (not cool trainers but running shoes), hoodies, and, I’m ashamed to say, some have work in TRACKSUIT BOTTOMS for periods of time….
Time to remind people what the smart-casual code actually intended.
This is perhaps my largest grievance as well – though I tend to give in as opposed to ‘follow my principles’ and dress down instead.
I work within an Investment Bank and moreover, am just an intern there (shall be starting full-time next year). Wearing even a pocket square or tie clip is considered ‘brown-nosing’ or some form of ‘one-upmanship’ as you’ve quite rightly said, when its just a way I show my interest in things sartorial (and indeed feel oddly more comfortable in). But given my career field is all about ‘making connections’ and ‘getting on with people’ etc, I stick to the dull old suit-shirt combo.
I realise some must be shouting out “just do what feels right to you as you’re the one wearing the clothes etc”, but pragmatically I have to give in as this is my only sensible choice.
Sad times I know, but alas the (unfortunate) circumstance I find myself in!
Thanks for all your comments about this. It seems to be a tricky issue for a lot of people.
Incidentally, this topic was discussed on “The Bottom Line”, BBC Radio 4′s business programme, last week. You can listen to it here:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00vrxx0
I work at one of those companies which do require a very strict dress shirt, tie, and dress slacks dress code – Community Health Systems in Nashville, TN.
The problem with this is, it’s ridiculous. The company pays below market wages, unless you are on the executive level, and even expects the mail staff to dress in such clothes. The problem is, many people can’t afford such clothes and a company is not willing to pay for it.
Furthermore, wearing wool slacks and a dress shirt/tie in 110 degree extremely humid Tennessee heat is just cruel.