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Primer on Suits

By staff
March 21, 2007

Finding a great suit can be a daunting experience. With so many different styles, colors, and fabrics to choose from, the prospect can be completely overwhelming. But finding a great suit is not as hard as it seems. Armed with some basic information, you can go into a suit shop and find the best one for you. This outline of the most important features of suits will guide you toward selecting the perfect suit.

Fit

The suit should fit your body closely and not be loose or tight.  No matter how nice your suit, a bad fit will ruin the look. The jacket is the most important component that should fit well. Pants are much more easily altered than a jacket.

Style

Since suits are rarely cheap, most men can’t afford to buy trendy ones that will be out of fashion within a year or two. Your best bet is to choose a classic suit that will last through the ages. The three main suit styles are Italian (usually has padded shoulders, a V-shaped jacket, pockets without flaps, and no vents), British (typically have padded shoulders, pockets with flaps, cinched waists, and two vents), and American (normally has no shoulder padding, pockets with flaps, a straight shape, and one vent). Which to wear in entirely is an aesthetic preference. Single-breasted suits are generally better for slender figures, while double-breasted suits flatter the more broad chested. Two or three buttons are best, and the bottom button should always be left undone. If you choose a three-button suit, button either only the middle button or the top two. Whether to choose pants with or without cuffs is also mostly an aesthetic preference. Cuffless pants generally look younger and more modern.

Color

Black, blue, and gray are the primary suit colors. If you own only one suit, make it a black one. A nice black suit works for very formal and business occasions, depending on the shirt and accessories. Navy and gray work well for business and more casual parties and can also be dressed up or down as needed. For added flair, pale or brightly-colored suits are very attention-grabbing at parties and special functions. Anything beyond the traditional colors probably won’t work in more traditional, corporate environments, but they are great for going out. A good way to add interest to a suit of a basic color is to wear one with pinstripes or patterns, such as chevrons.

Price

A bespoke suit, created expressly for you by a team of tailors, can cost up to $4000.  Off-the-rack or made-to-measure suits cost anywhere from $100 (for polyester) to $3000 (for the finest wools). A typical price for a nice off-the-rack wool suit is $400. A good suit should last you a lifetime, though, and with suits, you usually do get what you pay for.



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