The Logical Waistcoat Theory (Part One)


Men need a new uniform to adapt to air conditioning. Here’s a suggestion.

Let’s start with history and practicality. Suit jackets were never meant to be taken off. A man, no matter what his place in society, strained to have a clean collar and cuffs in order to appear smart. But these were detachable from the main shirt, which would be reworn for reasons of economy.

The maximum that was ever visible of a man’s shirt was his collar, cuffs and shirt front. For example, in Dickens’s Martin Chuzzlewit, the younger Chuzzlewit observes that many immigrants to America pack their suitcases with detachable shirt fronts – and have no real shirts at all. They maintain an air of respectability by having clean, white shirt fronts. They cannot afford a shirt, but no one will know they are not wearing one, because no one takes off their jacket.

The suit, with the possible addition of a waistcoat, was worn in its whole both for smartness and for warmth. The head-to-toe grey, blue or black was considered proper and smart – only a labourer or someone at particularly heavy work would take off their jacket (hence the association of being ‘in one’s shirtsleeves’ with toil). And only someone who was not afraid to get cold. The absence of central heating and air conditioning meant men wore a three-piece suit in heavy wool merely to keep warm.

Have a look at those old Hollywood films. How often do you see a well-dressed man’s shirt?

So, a suit from head to toe. Probably with long socks – both for warmth and for smartness again, to prevent showing naked leg and break that formal, dark figure. And the collar would be kept together with a tie, tucked into the jacket or waistcoat.

Today, if men wear a suit to the office they almost immediately take off the jacket. It would be too hot and probably uncomfortable to work at a computer with all day long. So they walk around the office in suit trousers, a shirt and possibly a tie. Without anything to tuck into, the tie may flap around unflatteringly. The effect is reinforced if the tie is loosened and the top button of the shirt undone. Plus, unless the shirt is very fitted, it will balloon a little around the waist.

If the man goes outside, it is likely that he will either put on both the jacket and a coat (in winter) or nothing at all (in summer). Either way, the jacket is redundant.

This redux of the classic lounge suit is often unflattering. Gone, for most of the day, is the waist-concealing silhouette of a well-made suit. That most attractive of outfits, which flatters many men like nothing else, is lost.

It is no wonder that many in the US have adopted a casual work outfit. If all you were wearing was suit trousers and a shirt, what’s the difference if you wear chinos and a shirt?

It is no wonder that putting a suit on to meet a client can feel a little artificial, like donning armour. And it is little wonder that many young men feel bored by a suit and prefer not to wear one (unless it is fashionable, as it has been for the past few years). But it is a pity.

(The solution to this modern workwear dilemma will appear in the second part of this posting, on Friday.)


Simon Crompton is a journalist and a style enthusiast living in London, who blogs at He has too many suits.


  1. Oh sure… now I’m all stressed out about my shirt ballooning.

  2. I really enjoyed this article. Bravo Simon. There is golden truth here; I also think it is a great pity. You know, despite his perspiration and anxiety, it really irritated me that the costume department decided to have Bond jacketless at the poker table in the recent ‘Casino Royale’. He lost dignity in being so exposed.

  3. Simon Crompton says:

    Many thanks Winston. The tragedy to me is that as much as any individual tries to dress with greater distinction, he is powerless against the common trend. Men in the past were fortunate that convention happened to involve smart, neat dress with the occasional flourish. No matter how much we talk about it today, work dress will inevitably become more casual. We will all drown in shapeless slacks and loafers.

  4. Nice article, Mr. Crompton. Upon reading it, I wore my coat the entire day and felt like a better man for it. And, yes, I am the only one in the office who owns a coat. Quite the site when I’m standing talking to our IT guy and his ill fitting t-shirt.

    I actually took a job a while back and the main factor for taking it was the dress code. Business formal. Unfortunately, it required me to work for Beelzebub and I didn’t last.

    And, Mr. Chesterfield (I love your blogs by the way and voted for you as the proper dandy on, to give Bond the benefit of the doubt, I believe he had just been poisoned and recessitated back to life (I believe this was the case). I would forgive anyone foregoing their coat based upon those circumstances.