Unfuddying the DB Jacket

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Of all the notions to make the young man-about-town shiver in fear, there’s nothing quite as soup-stained, floral-carpeted and suffocatingly musty as fuddy duddyness. A sleek young chap in his slim dark jeans and grey flannel blazer draws a hand through his smooth hair, fresh from a cocktail in some private Soho haunt that no one knows about (but pretends they’ve heard of) he glances sideways at the slow-moving traffic on Regent Street, … [Read more...]

The Trouser Department I: Turn-Ups

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I've been meaning to run a series taking a closer look at trousers for some time and given that my last couple of columns have been quite political, I thought that it would be prudent to return to the business of dressing itself. I have a particular interest in trousers at the moment, not only because I'm finding it increasingly difficult to find trousers that I'm prepared to wear off-the-peg, (you can read about the ongoing trouser crisis on my … [Read more...]

The Categorisation of Suits

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The art of dressing for an occasion is something that makes for immensely enjoyable experimentation, and in my own personal opinion at least, it’s central to the structuring of an expressive and individualistic wardrobe. Anyone can buy a plain gabardine suit on a ‘one suit fits all’ basis, and use it for every conceivable formal occasion. Such strategies make for a dull option and a distinctly joyless wardrobe, so in this column, I thought … [Read more...]

Lapel Gorge: A Question of Proportion

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Before I had my first bespoke suit made, I seldom considered the implications of the placing and shape of the gorge of the lapel on a tailored jacket, and how it can affect the appearance of the wearer's physique in a number of different ways, or even act as a fashion-statement in its own right. For those who are unfamiliar with the concept, the lapel gorge is the technical term for the part of the suit where the body of the lapel is attached … [Read more...]

Chocolate, an Underrated Colour

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I have never understood why chocolate is not worn more often and embraced as the third classic colour for tailored garments, alongside the long-established staples of navy and grey. Allow me to present a brief case of why you may wish to consider adding some handsome chocolate brown tailoring to your wardrobe. Firstly, chocolate is an extremely versatile colour, like grey and navy, and experimenting with its many different variant hues can … [Read more...]