The Trouser Department III: Pleats and Pockets

trousers3-boxy-pleat

Thus far in this trilogy (part I, part II) we've covered the various different elements of the trouser silhouette; comprising leg width, hem line, rise, turn-ups and the possibility of plain hems. Now I'm going to draw all of these elements together (hopefully), through a discussion of the much overlooked subjects of pleats and pockets. Pleats are a somewhat complex subject, so I'm going to try to keep this concise. As you will doubtless know, … [Read more...]

Feeling Black & Blue

black-blue-bradley

I’ve never been one for sartorial dogma for the sake of it. I particularly find it cereal-spittingly funny when sartorialists debate with each other the merits of colour combinations, the dos, donts, whys and wherefores, as if discussing the sentencing of young offenders. “Brown and pink is acceptable; brown and purple is not. You will be marked as a Frenchman.” “I think I read somewhere that you should never wear light grey with … [Read more...]

The Trouser Department II: Getting the Silhouette Right

silh-60s-suit-example

For the sake of brevity this column is going to discuss a number of things, namely trouser rise, leg width and the trouser hem-line. In other words I'll be focusing on trouser fit, something which I think suffers from a distinct lack of attention in modern fashion. I wrote in my first column on the subject how trousers have a bad-deal, and what I meant by that, put simply, is that we don't think about them enough or pay nearly enough attention … [Read more...]

Unfuddying the DB Jacket

fuddy-double-b-jacket

Of all the notions to make the young man-about-town shiver in fear, there’s nothing quite as soup-stained, floral-carpeted and suffocatingly musty as fuddy duddyness. A sleek young chap in his slim dark jeans and grey flannel blazer draws a hand through his smooth hair, fresh from a cocktail in some private Soho haunt that no one knows about (but pretends they’ve heard of) he glances sideways at the slow-moving traffic on Regent Street, … [Read more...]

The Trouser Department I: Turn-Ups

turnups-cuffed-trousers

I've been meaning to run a series taking a closer look at trousers for some time and given that my last couple of columns have been quite political, I thought that it would be prudent to return to the business of dressing itself. I have a particular interest in trousers at the moment, not only because I'm finding it increasingly difficult to find trousers that I'm prepared to wear off-the-peg, (you can read about the ongoing trouser crisis on my … [Read more...]