The Categorisation of Suits

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The art of dressing for an occasion is something that makes for immensely enjoyable experimentation, and in my own personal opinion at least, it’s central to the structuring of an expressive and individualistic wardrobe. Anyone can buy a plain gabardine suit on a ‘one suit fits all’ basis, and use it for every conceivable formal occasion. Such strategies make for a dull option and a distinctly joyless wardrobe, so in this column, I thought … [Read more...]

Lapel Gorge: A Question of Proportion

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Before I had my first bespoke suit made, I seldom considered the implications of the placing and shape of the gorge of the lapel on a tailored jacket, and how it can affect the appearance of the wearer's physique in a number of different ways, or even act as a fashion-statement in its own right. For those who are unfamiliar with the concept, the lapel gorge is the technical term for the part of the suit where the body of the lapel is attached … [Read more...]

Chocolate, an Underrated Colour

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I have never understood why chocolate is not worn more often and embraced as the third classic colour for tailored garments, alongside the long-established staples of navy and grey. Allow me to present a brief case of why you may wish to consider adding some handsome chocolate brown tailoring to your wardrobe. Firstly, chocolate is an extremely versatile colour, like grey and navy, and experimenting with its many different variant hues can … [Read more...]

A Question of Tailoring House Style

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For my first post on Mensflair, I thought I'd introduce myself by opening up for discussion something that I've been pondering for quite a while now; differences between House Styles in London tailors. Anyone with a vague interest in sartorial dress will be familiar with the fact that British, American, Parisian and Italian tailors all tend to produce suits slightly differently, using different shapes and degrees of structure in their garments. … [Read more...]

The ‘White’ Dinner Jacket

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"The only person who looked good in a white dinner jacket was Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca. And that's only because it was filmed in black and white." The above comment was made to me by an acquaintance when discussing a wedding I am due to attend later this year at a palm-treed, sandy-beach resort hotel in a particularly warm part of the world. The occasion, seemed to me, to suggest the use of the 'white' dinner jacket instead of black; the … [Read more...]