I’ll admit it: White trousers and white shoes versus White trousers and spectators is perhaps one of the more recherché debates we have begun. For a start, hardly anyone wears white trousers so the audience is, at the top end, very narrow. Secondly, even fewer own (or plan to own) white or spectator shoes. Both of these facts are unavoidable, and regrettable; white trousers are a classic, summer wardrobe staple. Every man should own a pair, … [Read more...]

Whilst visiting the tailor recently, I regarded with interest one of the younger artisans trying on a suit he had begun to make for himself as one of the senior tailors conducted an informal fitting for him, dispensing advice, pinning and pulling at his junior colleague’s suit shoulders. The scene illustrated perfectly the kind of apprenticed, on-the-job training that is at the heart of bespoke tailoring. Making mistakes is all part of it; the … [Read more...]

One of the biggest debates I have with tailors when adjusting garments concerns the trouser break. In short: I don’t like them, tailors generally do. My dislike of them stems from aesthetic considerations, whereas their support for a break is often a split between aestheticism and tradition; some tailors make an effort of describing why a break looks better, others simply shrug with resignation that they have been taught to cut trousers thus … [Read more...]

I’m in the market for a bespoke suit. However, I really don’t think I’ll be getting another one any time soon so I want it to be, above all things, useful. I was thinking of a blue or grey, maybe patterned (?) I want it to be adaptable for anything; city, country, dinner with friends, night out at the theatre etc. What would you recommend? What weight cloth should I get? Should it be plain/patterned? Waistcoat? I need advice! It’s a … [Read more...]