Choosing Scarves

How many scarves does a man need? I have bought scarf upon scarf, never counting the total, never even caring how much I frittered away. Digging through piles of forgotten cotton in my many draws, I have discovered old reserves of scarves, and of varying shapes and sizes. Variety, I have often been taught, is the spice of life, and I have always believed style can take any number of forms. The bonding aspect of all the scarves in my collection has been their incalculable efficacy in keeping my neck warm. And yet that, for many of my scarves, is where the familiarity ends.

I think a gentleman needs to consider what he needs the scarf for, why he is purchasing it and what effect he would like the scarf to have. Though the initial point seems as plain as a pikestaff, there is more to consider in the purpose of a scarf than as an accessory to maintain bodily warmth. When will he wear it? With what will he wear it? At what time of day will he wear it? Only the individual gentleman concerned can answer these questions. However, we can certainly speculate on what the hypothetical gentleman would consider desirable.

The classic cashmere

The cashmere scarf has become a commonplace and everyday item in the gentleman’s winter wardrobe. The age of ‘exclusive’ cashmere is over; affordable luxury is here, and cashmere of fantastic quality is available to all. For a classic cashmere scarf, a gentleman should be looking for a subtle and sober colour that will complement his winter wardrobe. Unlike ‘fashion’ scarves the gentleman may purchase, the classic cashmere should have traditional proportions. Pictured above is a conventional example. The braided fringe is essential for the traditional scarf. ‘Chopped’ scarves, even in fine materials (unless they are striped college scarves) look unfinished.

The college professor

The quintessential college professor has no use for the dainty consumerist luxury of cashmere. A more practical equation, in his mind, is to maximise material length, thus increasing the possibility of insulation from the wretched elements. Though ‘college professor’ is rather a stereotypical name for the garment, the long scarf has unerring connections with academia. I remember my days at university, surrounded by naïve Marxist venerators, their necks encircled with constrictor-like woollen conceptions, carrying off a revolutionary look with astounding self-possession.

Ideally worn with more casual clothing; long coats, cardigans, loose jumpers and substantial or practical footwear, the college professor scarf should be knitted and the braided fringe should be messy and uncommitted.

The flying ace

Silk is a material not often favoured by modern gentlemen; it is effeminate and lacks the rough-hewn appeal of fishermen’s wool. However, brave pilots of the air, in the early days of aviation, often wore silk scarves to keep the oily smoke out of their mouths whilst flying. The versatility of the fabric, means it can be used practically or merely for decorative panache. I use the many silk scarves I own practically in the winter months, tying them securely around my neck for warmth; they are an extremely pleasant alternative, in terms of the sensation on the skin, to almost any material. And they are also very warm.

The desert scarf

The man’s pashmina, the classic desert scarf has become an urban classic. Worn around the neck in a disorderly fashion, it is worthy of mention because of its contemporary style appeal. It’s rather Lawrence of Arabia; explorer and dandy rolled into one, and it will undoubtedly last. It’s best to wear this with more casual, weekend outfits.

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Ralph Lauren as Historian

In case you have been living under a rock somewhere, it may come as a surprise that Ralph Lauren, the company, turned 40 this year. What’s really surprising is that at one point in time there was no Ralph Lauren; kind of hard to imagine really. Lauren created the concepts of lifestyle marketing, aspirational customers, and with the opening of the Polo Mansion, total immersion product presentation. No other designer has to his extent, actually become his brand. While many are closely identified with their labels, Ralph quite literally is Polo, Ralph Lauren, Purple Label, RRL, and Rugby to name just a few. That his company has so remade the retailing and luxury lifestyle landscape in only 40 years is the really amazing part. If you think about it, he didn’t really hit his retailing stride until the mid 1980s. That makes it even more impressive.

Lauren has been busy publicly celebrating his anniversary and I for one don’t blame him. Those of you who are regular readers of my blog OffTheCuffDC will recognize my particular affection for Mr. Lauren. For this I do not apologize. People are endlessly fascinated by him and his company. More than any other brand, Polo/Ralph Lauren invites you to live inside its world: wear its clothes, clean up with its soap, splash on its cologne, sleep on its sheets in its bed, decorate your house with its paints, and eat in its restaurant. Now, after decades of relative mystery, Ralph Lauren the man is opening up the doors a bit.

With his new enormous now coffee table book, “Ralph Lauren,” virtually every collection and associated marketing campaign is given the chance to shine alongside a retrospective of his own life. Additionally, the Discovery Channel recently ran a fascinating documentary on Ralph Lauren’s vintage automobile collection: “The Ralph Lauren Car Collection: Speed, Style & Beauty.”

Considered to be one of the finest of its kind in the world, this collection encompasses many marquee names - Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes, Bugatti - but the quality and stylistic breadth of the cars is staggering. Restored to a level that in some cases exceeds their original showroom quality, his cars track the development of the automobile not only as transportation, but as art and social elegance.

The hour-long exploration of the collection examines how it came to be, the development of the obligatory companion book, and how his cars have influenced Ralph Lauren the designer. Lauren also graced the covers of recent Men’s Vogue, Fortune, and Town and Country magazines.

Another legendary collection of Lauren’s pulls at my soul: his assemblage of watches which range from vintage Rolexes to a one-of-a-kind collection within a collection of Panerai Italian military watches. Watches in particular are intensely personal items that convey a true sense of individual style. A collection like Lauren’s is in many ways a mirror of his personality and certainly seems to accurately reflect his obsession with quality, purpose, style, detail, and history.

This past March Ralph Lauren and the Richemont Group, owners of such luxury brands as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Mont Blanc, IWC, and Alfred Dunhill, signed a deal to create The Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Company. The 50/50 joint venture will design, manufacture, and distribute products through Polo boutiques and exclusive high-end jewelry stores. It seems that Mr. Lauren is ready to add his own creations to his personal museum.

By assembling these fascinating collections, Lauren is becoming a curator of historic touchstones that define luxury and elegance. While some may see this as a homage to conspicuous consumption or a celebration of indulgent decadence, I look at it very differently. Watches and cars, clothes and shoes, bags and furniture; these are the things that people use to define and identify themselves the world over. They are expressions of personality and elevate functional objects to the level of craftsmanship.

Ralph Lauren is consciously preserving the history of practical elegance. He also uses his collections for personal and professional inspiration; think of them as a database of style from which new Polo creations evolve.

Look around your own life; your home, your closet, your dresser, your briefcase. What daily objects can you say are unique and truly important to you? If for example you have a mug full of pens on your desk but only one or two vintage roller balls actually mean something to you, get rid of the others. Use the things that matter and don’t hold on to stuff just because you have it.

While most of us do not have his financial resources, take a page from Ralph’s playbook and don’t just accept what you can get; don’t keep what happens to be around just because it’s there. Rather, select the things in your life and regularly edit. Create your own personal collections and you will find more value, financial and personal, in fewer but cherished possessions.

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Dressing up Jeans

Jeans. For some people they symbolize lazy weekends; perhaps paired with your favorite old tee shirt and beat up trainers. Perfect for washing the car or walking the dog. For others they connote urban hip; the ultimate counter play to formal office wear. Ralph Lauren made news when he wore jeans with his dinner jacket to receive a major award. Far from being social faux pas though, it was instantly understood to be a very “Ralph Lauren” look and launched a thousand failed imitators. What he made look sharp and fashion most people simply butcher.

Jeans can be dressed up, but never make the mistake of thinking they can replace dress trousers, suit pants or, god forbid, tuxedo pants. People in the fashion business can get away with such things because they are in the fashion business and to their peers this is messing with the vernacular in a creative sort of way. Everyone else, myself included, should tread lightly when it comes to bringing jeans into the office. Still, it is possible to dress up jeans for work, a nice dinner, or cocktail party. Just focus on some key rules.

You should own at least one pair of dark blue jeans; they are timeless and the most versatile type you can own. Dark blue jeans can be dressed up with a collared shirt, sports coat and brogues, or dressed down with a tee shirt, cashmere crewneck sweater and moccasins.

Remember this: your jeans should fit you. I read a very funny article recently about “dad jeans,” which highlighted the sad fact that over the years most guys fail to buy new jeans and instead perpetrate a self-delusional myth that their favorites will always fit. They don’t; and while the jeans may stay in top form, you dear reader will probably not and it will show.

Although there are all sorts of fits and cuts, your best bet is still the basic strait leg version. It should sit at your natural hip and have a nice moderate break over your shoes. Alternately, you can wear them rolled up a bit for a preppy take or tailored to exactly hit the top of your shoe. Whatever your choice, they should look comfortable and trim but not tight; certainly not baggy and low-hanging. As with most things in life, simple is often better.

Dark jeans in particular lend themselves to more dressed-up outfits. They can carry off dressy casual better than their stonewashed or “vintage” brethren because of their inherent sophistication. In most outfits a good pair of dark blue jeans provides great texture and personality. Of course, if you want a laid back casual preppy look, most distressed and faded styles work fine as long as you stick with well-fitting strait leg models.

For autumn, try pairing your jeans with a high quality dress shirt and sport coat – tweed or corduroy look great. Throw a vest in between to add some warmth as well as style. Trim jeans can carry off dress shoes particularly well.  The juxtaposition of elegant leather footwear and rugged denim is very attractive. As noted above, jeans and sweaters are always a great mix.

By approaching a good pair of jeans as a part of your wardrobe and not just something thrown in the corner, you will get more out of this versatile workhorse.

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Using Colour in an Outfit

Adding that measure of poise to an outfit is the sine qua non for the elegant gentleman of today. Balance and harmony have become important once more to the modern man and this element of sartoria can take a number of forms. One of the most common methods of attaining this equilibrium is through the use of colour.

Colour matching and complementation is a universally adopted method of balancing and is used in not just fashion, but a variety of design fields where synchronization is desired. The question is how far to go with the matching and complementation; where does harmonious elegance end and heavy-handedness begin.

Though some might claim such balancing is a science that can be taught, experimentation is the most vital thing to remember when playing with colour. Rules, such as not wearing navy blue with black, are there to be broken; if you can pass off an unconventional match with aplomb then so much the better.

Feminine colours

Pinks, purples and even oranges and yellows are often considered feminine colours. Turquoise is regularly regarded to have that jewel-like brightness that only a woman can be seen in. However, using feminine colours in moderation alongside male classics such as school blazer grey, navy blue, black and racing green will dilute the acidic effect they can often have. Playing merry hell with such colours will lead to the ice-cream-Florida-retirement-home sartorial disaster; I learned my lesson long ago about being too ‘brave’ in this regard.

Using white and black

Use white and black to take the sickly-sweet out of overly colourful looks; this will add a calm to the mélange. The pictures below show how this technique works.

Pink

Good colour companions for pinks are black, light and dark greys, navy and mid blues, dark green and, for a summertime look, ivory and white. Pink is sophisticated and friendly and is appropriate for all seasons. However, be careful not to colour match too much; if wearing a pink shirt, match it with, at most, pink socks or a pink pocket square if the mood throws you. Companion colours for pink in terms of such accessories are spring greens, navy blues and browns.

Purple

Purple is a difficult colour to manage. It’s certainly striking and regal in appearance, but it needs to be worn with outfits of a sufficient sparkle. Charcoal greys and blacks are the best companions for purple; small accessorising colours able to stand up to its dominance are bright reds, rich greens and strong sky blues. It’s best to restrict colour matching when wearing purple. The true Imperial purple of Rome is a statement in itself and throwing arbitrary colours into the mix can look messy.

How far to go with accessorising

Colour matching and contrasting is a lot of fun and the effect can be truly magnificent. However, an unhealthy mix can draw unwanted attention. Pocket squares and socks are subtle ways to support or draw upon another colour that you are wearing. Adding colour matching belts and gloves can look excessive, especially if you are wearing several references to that colour already.

Instead of perpetually colour matching, colour styling is a good idea. This is a habit of wearing certain colours with certain styles of accessories and footwear; for example, the habit I have of wearing a brown belt with brown shoes or check shirts.

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My Style Influence

In a discussion not too long ago, someone asked me who has had the most significant style influence in my life. Though I assumed that an actor, designer or even a politician would be the winner, what almost immediately popped into my head was a little surprising. Since most people’s personality tends to be the sum of life events as well as genetics, I thought you might find a story that combines both a little interesting. If nothing else, I’d like to think of this as a brief testament to finding true class right at home.

Though not my initial thought, it quickly became obvious that the most powerful influence on my personal style has been my father. While I have had many influences over the years, from magazines and movies to working in a couple of Ralph Lauren stores; my core view of what defines “style” is firmly grounded in him.

As is often the case with children, I never really appreciated as a boy his wonderfully classic sense of taste and respect for quality. It only hit me after I had grown up and moved on with my life. Though he himself would eventually grow up to live a decidedly preppy handbook kind of life, he was by no means born to it. A keen application of hard work and long hours in the library eventually led to a New England prep school and then an Ivy League college. The result is a man who, though having very traditional taste and an appreciation for the classics, is without pretense. He has never forgotten his roots.

As to his personal style, my dad’s version of a sweatshirt and jeans are khakis and a corduroy sport coat. It is simply what he grew up with; as he once told me, “I’ve worn a jacket every day since grade school, I had to.” As a result, he has always managed to look completely comfortable in such attire without being the least bit stuffy or off-putting. This is a real accomplishment as, literally, he has never actually owned a pair of jeans. To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy which is very important because he is also doctor.

One particular memory of my father will always stick with me because it showed how clothing can so define the inner qualities of a man. I was with a friend who worked at our local hospital and we stopped by the emergency room so he could drop something off. While I stood in a corner, watching the commotion and trying to stay out of the way, I saw my dad come around the corner. As it so happened, he looked great; seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty, actually. He didn’t see me.

What happened next will forever stay in my heart and mind. He walked over to an elderly man lying on a gurney parked along the wall. Very gently, he leaned over and began to talk with the gentleman. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my father’s patient relax. At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help his patient. I then recalled something he had once said about always dressing well to make his rounds at the hospital: it wasn’t for his benefit; rather it was a sign of respect to his patients. He paid attention to how he dressed because his patients deserved at least that.

In that moment, the style on the outside very much matched the man on the inside. It’s easy to dress well, but that’s not the same thing as having class. More than any magazine or movie star, that image will always be my definition of true style.

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