Zip Front Sweaters

Everyone should have a good selection of sweaters in their closet. Though they are popular and useful articles of clothing, sweaters are not often considered fashion accessories. What I mean by this is that they tend to be more function than form. Crew necks and v-necks are the workhorses of many a closet and polo collars add a jazzy punch to the lineup.

And this is just fine; not every piece of clothing you own is supposed to take center stage. Often with items like sweaters, the focus is more on material and construction than fashion. A navy handmade cashmere v-neck is a wonderful investment, but, in the end looks like most other blue v-neck sweaters.

You should still get it, of course, but chances are you want to have that in the wardrobe because it raises the quality of such a standard item to a new level. Others may not appreciate the attention to detail and exceptional pedigree, but you will. That is the approach many men take when adding to and editing their wardrobes.

The zip front sweater is another issue altogether. It is neither anonymous nor a functional workhorse. With its stand-up collar and decidedly urban cut, this versatile piece of clothing has a nice sense of modern-cum-classic style.

Europe has long had an affinity with this style of sweater; in fact a friend of mine has always called the full zip cardigan a “Euro sweater.” The style also has a slight resemblance to old military sweaters with a small shawl collar that could be turned up in cold weather. Either way, the heritage of the zip front sweater is grounded in a solid and timeless style.

When choosing this kind of sweater, either the full zip cardigan or the half-zip pullover is a good choice. With a crisp gingham button down and flat front khakis, a grey or navy cardigan can easily substitute for a sport coat in many circumstances. When zipped up, the split double zipper often found on these sweaters allows for the bottom zipper to be pulled up two or three inches to create a pleasing open-coat effect.

You can find zip sweaters in fabrics and weights from thick heavy cottons to fine luxurious cashmeres; letting you pair them with a range of outfits. Both cardigans and half-zips can easily move between tailored flannels for the office or jeans for hanging out.

Patterns like argyle look especially nice because the traditional designs are tempered by the sweater’s more modern style. Solid colors, either muted heathers or vibrant reds and oranges are equally attractive and versatile.

Beau Ideal: Berluti Shoes

A friend of mine informed me that they dream of riches, but that those dreams are tempered to the extent that they dreamed of limited wealth; of having to have limits, of having to say no. Considering the mighty elasticity of dreams, it may seem unusual. To wish finitely of boundless freedom and impossible luxury – surely the ultimate is to have seemingly infinite resources to match the infinite possibilities of our imaginations. However, consider if you will the psychological consequence of possessing limitless wealth; what would there be left to buy? What would be pictured in glossy magazines for us to dream of? Where would our childlike expectation of material fulfilment go? Knowing you can have everything and anything could actually be rather depressing; all the money in the world has no remedy for such feeling. As Oscar said, there are in fact two tragedies in life: not getting what one wants and getting what one wants. “The last”, he commented “is much the worst.”

The wonderful thing about dreams, I have often observed, is that generally speaking they do not come true. They remain, in limbo, in our minds eye, never coming into fruition; they are part of the only perfect landscape we know and we are rarely given an opportunity to be disappointed by them. This is why I am currently satisfied I do not own a pair of Berluti shoes. As much as I adore them, I desire to remain desirous of them. Bizarre as it seems, I am actually thankful for their reassuring expense.

Looking at a pair of Berlutis, as I found out when I ankled round to the Conduit Street store, is actually rather like looking at something that hangs in the National Gallery; it’s an event, a special occasion. There is a wonderful depth to the leather, a fabulous patina; they have the lustre of a perfect piece of antique furniture. Whereas ordinary leather, while serviceable, is the flat-pack copy, Berluti is the real thing. They are like the walnut Gainsborough chair or the Queen Anne chest.

It should be no surprise that such magnificence comes at a price. Shoes, when well made, shouldn’t be alarmingly cheap. The process of hand made shoes, with the use of high quality material, requires expertise and skill. Indeed, considering Berluti as merely a ‘shoemaker’ is akin to considering Michelangelo rather decent at sketching. Even in comparison to established shoe tailors such as John Lobb, the artistry of a Berluti shoe stands out as something worthy of praise. The shapes are more avant garde than Jermyn Street cobblers; Berluti is not afraid of the square toe, and yet the beautiful patination is utterly classic. Some shoes, to look at, have very little depth in the material itself. Berluti understands that some demand art from footwear; that there should be a sense of the exceptional about the shoe.

It’s a relief to me that I can still regard Berluti with such awe: that I am not given the opportunity to tire of them or have reason to disparage their construction. When I was on Conduit Street, I had a lot of fun trying a pair or two in Mayfair and I was sufficiently smitten. However, it would surely eventually tire me if I was given the wherewithal to instruct Berluti to make me fabulous tailored shoes; I would have reached the apogee, the very summit of footwear – everything below it, which means all other footwear, would become lacklustre and unacceptable for wear and that is a snobbery I cannot afford and do not want. Having said that, if I did own a pair, I’d be awfully proud of them.

All Hail the Bowtie

I have an opinion about men who wear bowties. They are mavericks; truly adventurous dressers who live on the sartorial edge. They are nonconformists and often seen as threatening to the establishment. Yes, look out for the man who sports a bowtie – he probably has an attitude.

For a long time, those who wore bowties were depicted as milquetoasts or mamma’s boys. This situation has slowly changed and bowties have begun to re-emerge as symbols of intellectual rakishness and individual dressers.  Sure, they are not overly common for day wear, but when worn in public they do carry a certain intellectual air. Sill, apart from being paired with a dinner jacket, many men are still afraid to tie one on.

And so there is no confusion, the only appropriate neckwear to pair with a dinner jacket is a bowtie. Please refrain from that annoying Hollywood “look, we’re going against the grain, notice us” habit of wearing bolos, long ties or silly a Nehru collar with a tuxedo. We get it; you’re creative, now just follow George Clooney’s lead you’ll look great.

Bowties have been a favorite of mine for years; I even wore them in college to student government meetings. I felt intellectual when sporting one; even a little dashing. Bowties have so much more personality than regular neck ties and it always seemed to me that interesting people inevitably wore them. A bowtie can provide a natty counterbalance to an otherwise staid outfit – something that a neck tie can’t claim.

I am a longtime fan of journalist George Will, in part because he almost always would wear a bowtie on TV. Recently he has been wearing more neckties, and this is too bad. Sporting a bowtie and that perpetually brainy look, you knew right away that this guy has something to say and that he marches to his own drummer. Bowties have that power.

One reason bow ties are more often the purview of clever men is that at first they are difficult to tie. And let me stop you cold here. Never, under any circumstances should wear a clip-on or prettied bowtie. Ever. They are just so wrong on too many levels. Learn how to tie one yourself and be proud of it. A particularly useful way to practice is using your calf as a stand-in for your neck. Once you get the hang of it, it’s quite simple.

Bowties can be paired with many types of outfits. On the business side, they look good with all nature of suits, though models with a higher lapel stance can visually compensate for the dearth of exposed shirt fabric cascading down your front.

They also can work well in less formal settings, allowing for a bit of dress up when needed. Paired with jeans or khakis, cords or gabardines, bowties can give voice to your inner college professor.

Sartorial Love/Hate: Cravats

In continuing the recently begun series on love/hate sartorial relationships, I chose an item of elegant and yet comic status. It is one of the most theatrical accessories available to gentlemen; effete and yet at the same time, a strong symbol of a dying patriarchy. The cravat is an ancient wardrobe item and though it started as a simple length of cotton or linen, it evolved into a graceful adornment for the collar.

Nowadays, anything that seems to be worn around the neck, and tucked behind a shirt or jumper, is considered a cravat. Though the ascot is, to many, the last design of the true cravat, ‘cravattism’ is something that can happen to almost anything – in tradition with it’s origins as a humble stretch of fabric.

Though it is frequently worn by traditional and conservative men, young and old; usually underneath a smart and stiff shirt and v-neck combination, there has been a recent flurry of experimentation, with the likes of Robbie Williams, Jude Law, David Beckham, Billy Zane and Jeremy Piven all embracing a style of neckwear normally associated with middle-to-old-age chaps who drive 20 year old Jaguars.

Despite this stamp of youth and celebrity approval, many still find their noses turning (and possibly their stomachs), when they see willing guinea pigs promenading towards them with ruffles of silk concealing their neck. Frankly, some simply do not like this sort of adornment – if anything, to them the most attractive and modern of styles is the open collar and naked neck and of course, the cravat is the antithesis of this. Others might be rather put off by the connotations; the effeminate patterning indicative of a forgotten age of ‘the decorative man’, the concealment of flesh indicative of a very English repression.

However, I consider it rather a shame this style has been maligned thus; tying something around one’s neck to good effect takes a skill and even artistry. And I think those capable of protecting their necks against the cold with such flair need recognition and not mere mockery.

As an accessory, in my opinion, the cravat is an excellent item. Rather like the sartorial equivalent of a valance; it completes the effect, and covers up the awkward ugliness effectively and elegantly. For poor emaciated souls like myself, it offers structure and substance to a rather insignificant upper torso; like the moiré silk that conceals the flimsy and unattractive wiring sprouting from a chandelier.

Then again, such ‘fuss’ is precisely the sort of thing that antagonists rail against; minimalism is a modern trend, in all aspects of life. Chaps turn up to restaurants in what looks like gymnasium attire, people furnish rooms with striking economy of colour or pattern, objet d’arts are more likely to be praised for their ‘purity’ or ‘simplicity’ rather than their ornate complexity: it’s surely no wonder that the cravat is seen as a hilarious prop, unnecessary and fussy.

However, I think such style is due an honest revival, not merely a cameo. There is only so much ‘purity’ and ‘simplicity’ I can take before it all starts to get rather nauseating and pompous. Times have indeed changed, but they are changing still – I think there is call for a cravat Renaissance. It will be a challenge however, to shrug off that fustiness that has long been associated with it.

Personal Touches to Your Personal Style

When it comes to really setting yourself apart from the crowd it’s those little things that make the difference. Today, it seems as though exclusivity itself is no longer exclusive; so taking some time to focus on the personal things that you find special will indeed pay off in the end.

They can range from expensive wardrobe additions to simple touches. The point is not to break the bank because as you should know by now, money does not buy style. On the other hand, money well spent can be a smart long term investment.

So, here are a few things to think about. By no means a comprehensive list, these are just a couple of ways you can bring some more personality to your personal style.

Custom clothes: Let’s start big and get this out of the way. If you can afford to do so, investing in custom made clothes is a wonderful way to add flair to your wardrobe and overall appearance. Handmade suits, jackets and shirts will fit you like nothing else and will simply look better than off the rack clothing.

Remember that assembling a working custom wardrobe can cost a small fortune and take a while to pull together. Additionally, even if you stick to traditional cuts and fabrics, styles do change and your clothes won’t be the height of fashion forever. Regardless, well thought out and designed purchases will stand the test of time better than trying to be just another fashion plate.

A good place to start is with a few custom shirts. There is usually a minimum quantity for your first order, but you’ll get a nice variety of fabrics and several options when it comes to collars and cuffs.

Move on to suits, sport coats and trousers as your interest and income dictate.

Good shoes: The next rung on the high-end investment ladder is a pair of good shoes. There are many makers of fine footwear from which to choose. Most are English, but some American makers like Alden and Allen Edmunds are well known in their own right. Look for leather uppers and Goodyear welted leather soles. The leather adapts to your foot’s shape and Goodyear welting allows soles to be replaced, adding years of service.

If you have cash to spare, custom footwear is the ne plus ultra of bespoke. Feet are the real workhorses of your body and deserve respect. Custom shoes will be molded to each foot and hand assembled by skilled craftsmen. It can take a while to get them to you, but when you finally slip on those custom brogues or oxfords, your feet will never feel the same.

In addition to just looking different than most mass produced footwear, handmade shoes will last a very long time due to the quality of materials and level of craftsmanship employed. They many even outlast you.

Monograms: Here we get into a less expensive but nonetheless high impact sartorial tool: the monogram. Formally the purview of upper-classes, modern technology has brought monogramming to the masses. While this option is now available almost anywhere – from shirts to socks, golf clubs to toothpicks – limiting its usage can increase the cool factor.

Though shirt cuffs, handkerchiefs and signet rings are great locations for the well placed monogram, try not to overdo it. Your initials in small gold lettering on a leather briefcase is a nice touch but a monogrammed baseball hat is a bit tacky. Be conservative with all the branding or it will look silly, not sharp.

What most people want to achieve with monogramming is a hint of the patrician life; for someone to think that, just maybe, you have a butler laundering your shirts every other day. I mean, why else would you need your boxer shorts monogrammed?

One-of-a-kinds: These are the really unique items that speak to your own interests, hobbies or collections. I know people who collect vintage leather briefcases, fountain pens, mechanical watches and Tiffany desk sets.

Whatever your interests, don’t be afraid of integrating them into your day to day life. Use a leather journal to keep your schedule, trade in your old dress shirts for new ones with French cuffs and put your dad’s old cufflinks to work, wear that fedora you’ve always coveted.

More than anything else these are the things that make you unique and individual. Ever been to New York and seen the naked cowboy in Times Square? You’ll never look at a cowboy hat the same way; but you’ll also never forget his get-up – or lack thereof – again. Is he nuts? Perhaps; but he also makes a good living and sure seems to enjoy his work.

However you choose to approach defining your personal style just don’t be a drone. Don’t go through life towing the sartorial line because you are afraid of taking a stand and standing out a bit.