What’s In Your Pocket?

Most men are superstitious to some extent. We have our lucky shirt or favorite pair of shoes, a certain tie; maybe even a particular driving route to the office. Likely Republican presidential nominee John McCain has a host of lucky objects that travel with him on the campaign trail, one of which is a favorite coin.

This, I can relate to. I have a lucky coin as well – or, to be more precise, some lucky coins. I carry at least one of them wherever I go. It’s not like I must have it with me to leave the house, it’s just that I’m used to carrying one. Usually, it’s a large 50 Franc piece; a memento brought back by my brother from a trip across Europe in the 1970s.

Apart from the coin, I may carry some cash in a lovely sterling silver money clip that was a gift from my wife; otherwise I like to keep my pockets fairly empty. It’s a personal thing – I just don’t like the bulk of having keys or a cell phone jammed into my pockets. If I actually have to take stuff out to comfortably sit down, it’s too much.

What a man carries around in his pockets everyday is definitely telling. Is he a hoarder or a minimalist? What does he consider the necessities of life? This ties in of course with my own penchant for bags, a more logical way of carrying things around.

With dress pants in particular having more than a few small items in your pockets just looks bad. The line of the trousers is thrown off and an odd bulkiness of stretched fabric ensues. Key chains are a big offender. Why on earth someone would feel the need to lug around a ring of sharp, heavy keys in their front pocket escapes me. How is that comfortable?

Some men like to carry a small pocketknife, which can be very handy as long as you’re not rushing to catch a plane. A nice little monogrammed pen knife is a wonderful accessory and a nice heirloom to boot.

A pocket full of change is to me one of those annoying things – as are the people who feel the need to jingle said coins incessantly. Here’s a better idea: get a nice handmade English change case and throw it in your bag.

When it comes to pants pockets, wallets are a major issue. I have no problem carrying mine in a back pocket when it makes more sense than lugging a bag around. Sturdier pants like jeans, khakis and cords are best suited for wallets.

Some men like to keep their wallet in a front pocket. Whether for security or comfort – sitting with a wallet in your back pocket can cause all sorts of spinal issues – just make sure it is a small, thin one. Card cases can be a good alternative to the bulk of a traditional wallet. Dress and suit pants are often not constructed for overstuffed or bulky wallets – let alone a heavy key ring. So give your pants a break.

When getting dressed up, pare down your pocket accessories to a minimum. For example, I have a very nice slim calfskin wallet that I use for formal events. I’ll take my license, credit and bank cards and some business cards; leaving everything else in the main wallet. The lucky coin goes up front and that’s pretty much it. If I’m wearing a jacket, the cell phone goes in an inside pocket. So does the wallet.

Sartorial Love/Hate: Tone on Tone

I find it incredible how small and insignificant things can produce polar and often extreme responses. A jar of Marmite or a liquorice log might have one person salivating whilst another begins to retch; there is, very often, little middle ground. For these two famous comestibles, most people will stake their allegiance to one side of the battlefield; they are classic examples of things to love or loathe.

I have discovered, in my social circle, there is a similar response to various items of clothing that I have worn. One friend points in revulsion whilst another states their admiration – neutrality in relation to a few of these items or styles is not often expressed. The first ‘style’ of discussion which I find has provoked such strong sentiment from those of my acquaintance is the style of ‘tone on tone.’

Tone on tone is perceived as quite a modern style: eschewing the classicism of contrast in ties and shirts, jackets and waistcoats. In fact, the truth is that tone on tone has been done many times before and centuries before this one. White tie and tails, the evening formal wear of yesteryear, is a fine example. Though the chap wears a black tailcoat and trousers, his waistcoat, shirt and bow tie are all white. And, in turn, this all-white ‘bib’ echoes the evening dress of the late 18th and early 19th century when men wore white neckties with white shirts and white, or perhaps even ivory, waistcoats; the fun to be had was through the use of different materials of different textures or patterns. Since the mid 20th century, when black tie replaced white tie as ‘formal’ evening wear, wearing contrasting colours has been favoured and it became the classic standard.

When tone on tone became popular again in the late 1990s, it looked mightily refreshing. Shirts and ties looked youthful once more; the ‘smart’ look became heliotrope shirts and ties, together in harmony. However, whilst it was certainly done well in a few cases, it was also done very badly indeed. I remember the early programming of ‘Who Wants to be a Millionaire’ when Chris Tarrant wore ghastly combinations of silver on silver and bright blue on bright blue – it was a look that became synonymous with tacky game show hosts. ‘Chavs’ began to wear the tone on tone look to weddings and evening functions; both shirt and tie exhibiting a terrible glossiness. This was the final nail in the proverbial coffin. To tone on tone they had ‘done a Burberry’ and this is perhaps why many of my friends do not like the style.

However, for my other acquaintances, capable of seeing the merits of tonally identical layering, there have been high points. In the 1998 film ‘A Perfect Murder’, Michael Douglas wore numerous combinations of tone on tone and this is a perfect showcase to illustrate the importance of texture when combining colours from the same hue pool. The evening waistcoat is of patterned silk in contrast to the plain tie and shirt, echoing the fashion of the mid to late Victorian period when men tended to allow their waistcoats to be the most extravagant and elegant part of their dress. Some suede was used in the manufacture of the waistcoats for Douglas which, texture wise, contrasts dramatically against the shine of the woven ties and silk shirts. The other important thing to note is that this particular exhibition of the look concentrates on piling together tones from the same stretch of hues rather than putting exactly the same colour on top of each other. This makes tone on tone much more fun, and also, more aesthetically pleasing.

Managing Your Message: Execution of Personal Style

You’ve heard it many times before, “details matter.” It’s true; details are the finishing touches of personal expression. They are often what separate average guys from truly interesting men. Whether big or small, exuberant or subtle, details drive the messages we use to define ourselves to others.

My fellow MensFlair contributor, Winston Chesterfield, recently posted an excellent essay on the core of personal style. His argument that style is akin to art, that an artist must paint or that a sculptor must liberate the form inside a block of granite, is particularly insightful. This is the kind of drive and attention to detail that marks a truly stylish man.

The execution of personal style, not surprisingly, varies from person to person and involves more than just clothes. You can manage this message if you want; building up a personal presence that reflects who you are, what you want and what you’re all about.

There are many examples of people who consciously developed their style around specific details. Tom Wolfe is one; with his trademark white suit and hat, the writer is instantly recognizable. Whether you like or loath his persona, Wolfe is a very smart man who understands the benefit of being unique and standing out in a crowded field.

Of course he backs up the stylish eccentricity with darn good writing. Details won’t get you too far if there is no substance behind the flash. There is one guy though, a big guy with a lot of substance who has fascinated me for quite a while.

California governor Arnold Schwarzenegger is a virtual tactician when it comes to designing and executing his own personal marketing plan. From the custom suits which both highlight his well known bulk – and by extension make his polished executive appearance all the more pronounced – to the custom cowboy boots emblazoned with his adopted home state’s seal. Schwarzenegger has always been meticulous about packaging himself for the task at hand.

By capitalizing on his early niche “Pumping Iron” fame, he launched himself into action hero celebrity and then made an even more remarkable transition to political powerhouse. Schwarzenegger always takes the time to manage his public persona and adjust his presentation when needed. Running through it though has been a consistent core image: a cigar smoking, Hummer driving, independent thinking, business minded big man with a toothy smile.

His sense of style alternates between refined outdoor rugged and polished corner office political leader. Mud smeared, machine gun toting on-screen persona aside, Schwarzenegger is in fact a connoisseur with excellent taste in design, clothes, watches and of course hand rolled cigars. He is well read and a virtual policy wonk when it comes to such complex issues as climate change and trade – both key issues in California. Although legally barred from running for president, he still oversees 12% of the American population. Not bad for a kid from a little town in Austria.

Using Arnold Schwarzenegger as example of how to manage your image through attention to detail and focus may seem a little outsized, but the governator is a brand and he knows it. You and I are no different. What is your brand? Who is your audience? What is your plan? What are the details that define you?

Valentine’s Day with Style

It’s coming. It’s the day many sensible people dread and an occasion on which singles are, no matter how occupied and workaholic they may be, made to feel really quite single indeed. Restaurants inflate prices, flowers bulge from the racks at the local shop and chocolates spill from the shelves. It’s a day, in the late winter calm of February, of sudden chaos. A boyish and naïve Cupid, attempting to wrestle with everyday life, throws what should be a normal 24 hour period into chaos.

Offices reek of perfume, red hearts pop up on Google, ‘secret messages’ are sent in an attempt to avoid work, workers leave early to get home for a cosy evening in or prepare themselves for a fabulously expensive night on the town. Unlike Christmas, where there is at least an attempt at a Dickensian feeling of ‘goodwill to all men’, St Valentine’s Day, or V-Day as I ominously name it, is actually quite a selfish and indulgent occasion. People hope, either secretly or blatantly, for missives of adoration, gifts and pecks on the cheek.

Men tell their wives they love them, affect an uncharacteristic generosity and all in hope of looking forward to several rounds of naughtiness later on; women don lacy underwear to feel desired, gorge on chocolate and then ask their husbands if their rump is too liberal in size for their little black dress.

It is a day which must surely involve a fantastic amount of dishonesty, or at the very least gross embellishment, for even the most amorous of couples might be crossing their fingers during delivery of some Valentine’s Day ‘lines’. The reason for such exaggeration is simple. Brutal and uncomfortable honesty is simply not done on V-Day; one should learn the art of game playing and pursue perfection rather than truth, if only for this particular February date. Playing the game coolly is the style man’s choice – it’s the James Bond choice, or the Steve McQueen choice. It should be your choice.

Surprise is one of the most intoxicating emotions and since V-Day can be one of those occasions on which the grass becomes considerably greener on the other side of the fence, keeping your partner on their toes by introducing a little change or two can do wonders for what could be, for long term partners, quite a hum-drum occasion.

If you’re one of those men more inclined to ‘minimalism’; an extra kiss, perhaps a new t-shirt with the jeans at dinner and a ‘Reduced to clear’ single rose then this could be an occasion to push the boat out a little more. Bond never dons t-shirts for dinner and he goes nowhere near discount racks for gifts. At the risk of inviting comments like ‘It’s about the way people feel about each other, not the gifts!’ I must stress that it is important not to look like the winner of the Cheapest Person of the Year competition. Yes it’s a Hallmark swindle, yes it’s hideously commercial, but it’s a chance to show how un-Scrooge like you can be.

It seems like it’s one of those occasions to pay more attention to the object of your affection and, of course, it is – but many men forget about themselves on V-Day; haggard, scruffy and tired, they stumble into the cripplingly expensive Michelin-rated establishment and their faces drop even further when they see the prices and then the missing handbag. Give yourself a bit of time to prepare and if you’re going straight from work, give your face a dashed decent splash and for heavens sake take a change of clothes: there’s nothing more unedifying than the sight of a pair of farty, crumpled trousers wandering off to the toilet.

If you are dining out, don’t layer up too much; think of a twentieth century Byron. This should mean a perfect Clooney-esque white shirt, unbuttoned at the top with a sharp and rather fitted jacket and trouser combination. Add a tie if you wish, but adding a blood red or cream pocket square is decoration enough for this classic look. Even if you are dining at home, put on a clean shirt and a pair of smart trousers; it’s a special occasion, so enjoy it.

If you’re planning on spoiling your object of lust or devotion, avoid the stampede for the plain old red rose. They are pleasant, but they are surely one of the candidates for a pictorial insertion under the dictionary definition of ‘hackneyed’; go for lilies or orchids. Chocolates are best served with a nod to quality rather than quantity; a man in possession of a style nous shouldn’t be purchasing a massive ‘bumper value’ box of vegetable fat-stuffed supermarket tat. Choose a smaller but more select amount from good chocolatiers such as Godiva or Leonidas.

The style man should also remember never to overdo it; purchasing gigantic teddy bears will never cross his mind, nor will parting with cash for anything heart-shaped and for goodness sake, never ask ‘What would you like for Valentine’s Day?’ Surprise them with your remarkable self-assurance and purchase a fragrance they haven’t tried for spring; keep it fruity and fresh. You never know but, for the night, they might just think you’re Cary Grant.

Spring Shoes

Despite the fact that springtime in London, though it sounds full of promise, is more likely to be wetter than a drowned rat, I think the best thing to be is optimistic. It might be truly splendid when the daffodils come to line the pathways in St James’ Park and ‘Nature’s coronation’ is upon us once more. When spring is really spring, there is nothing to beat it; the catharsis is unmistakable, youth shines anew. With all the commotion of re-birth, it seems appropriate to adjust footwear for the season. Unless it was particularly wet, thinking forward, footwear for the brighter months should be light and, forgive the pun, incline you to put a ‘spring’ in your own step.

Plimsolls

Footwear has come a long way, especially in terms of comfort. It is possible, apparently, to wear things that feel like walking on air, or walking on water, or pillows or whatever a man may desire. However, few of these footwear choices have the attraction of style. They are manufactured, chiefly, for casual wear though their original designs were intended for use in sporting activities.

‘Sneakers’ or ‘trainers’ are forms of footwear I just cannot bring myself to wear. Despite the attractions of comfort, their ugly shapes and inelegance can ruin outfits. For years now I have worn an alternative that I discovered when looking through cardboard boxes of old school clothing: plimsolls.

Whereas once it was possible to purchase several inexpensive pairs from the local school outfitters, because of the current massive trend, they are frequently sold out. The trend has had its benefits; more and more designs are being produced with an emphasis on ‘retro’ shaping. Whereas trainers from the likes of Nike and Adidas are bulky and substantial, plimsolls are slight. They offer precious little in the way of support but they are still comfortable and youthful shoes that effectively ‘de-dust’ the dustiest of outfits.

Wear with slim-fitting, short cut denim or with white trousers for something rather ‘Brideshead Revisited’.

Spectators or ‘Co-Respondents’

In England these snappy shoes are named ‘co-respondents’. In divorce law, a co-respondent is a person charged with misconduct with the petitioners spouse and it is for this that the shoes are named. ‘Ladies men’ were known to wear them and their distinctive twin-colouring earned them plenty of attention in even the darkest hotel corridor. Americans call them ‘spectator shoes’ and though, since the 1930s, they have always been around in a number of specialist stores, they are rarely seen on the streets. Admittedly, they are rather daring and the connotations with cuckolding are unlikely to have made them favourable with the older generation. However, they are also rather splendid and the spring, season of love, is a fantastic time to stretch them out.

Wear with smarter, plain trousers or smart chinos.

Tasselled loafers

These shoes are fantastically popular among the young, upwardly mobile Mayfair set. The sight of impossibly tall, impossibly thick-haired young chaps kicking around Berkeley Square in chalkstripes and tasselled loafers is like watching racehorses trotting around the paddock ring at Ascot. They are very traditional and despite the jovial tassel, certainly veer towards more formal clothing.

However, it’s jolly fun, and very English, to wear them with classic indigo denim; cut short so that there is no touch between the jeans and the leather.