“Vintage Authentic” v. Plain Old Authentic

Some time ago, I was clearing out my closet and came across a pile of old Brooks Brothers oxford cloth button downs. I had not worn these shirts in almost a dozen years, yet there they were; classic, frayed and waiting for a wash. These shirts took years wear in and have a nice threadbare look around the collar and cuffs. If I went looking for these oxfords in a store right now, I’d have to pay a hefty premium for the “vintage” details and “hand finished” distressing.

But I don’t have to; I have the real thing although these days the real thing seems to be less of an ideal. The kind of character that used to take years of wear and tear, weekend chores and yard work can know be picked up by the dozen at the store. We have become such a culture of instant gratification that we can now expect, and receive, instant heritage. These artificially old clothes are of perfectly good quality of course and they are great assets to any wardrobe. Still, I’m very happy to know that these classic shirts are not fakes. They do not have a manufactured history. The various scars and scrapes took me time and effort to develop, not a giant machine that churns out personality by the bolt.

I am still a fan of companies like J. Crew, a label synonymous with pre-beat up classics. But I grew up before the art of creating ready wear history became the norm, so there is comfort knowing that the character these shirts have is, in fact, mine. Much of what is in my closet has taken a lifetime to age and I am proud of that. It’s like a sort of long-term investment.

Of course I also appreciate the benefits offered by the modern textile industry. I like the fact that I can go and buy a pair of khakis that are comfortable right off the bat and that I can’t even remember the days of having to “break in” jeans - something the modern teenager cannot even fathom. Still, there is a certain sense of accomplishment in creating the patina of your own wardrobe.

If nothing else, this experience fits neatly in line with my manta of buying classic clothing that will last. Remember, the perpetually sought after “old money” look speaks of timeless classics - worn out khakis, glossy leather shoes re-soled a hundred times and patched tweed coats - because these cherished articles were actually worn for years. Sometimes, as in the case of Gianni Agnelli’s suits, they’re worn for generations. Thrift is a valued personality trait.

Don’t live in the past however; always make sure to inject new styles and fresh perspectives into your wardrobe. Even the most classic of clothes will not be in fashion forever. Design and cuts change over time, colors go in and out and lapel and tie widths will fluctuate. Wear what you like and makes you happy but always make a point to invest in clothes that offer some long term quality. Fashions fade, style endures and clothes really do develop their own personality. And that you cannot manufacture.